Spacers for ae85/6 struts
Moderator: The Mod Squad
Spacers for ae85/6 struts
Hey,
Xmas and New Years are out of the way now so it's time to get back to work on the Levin which you have probably seen on my project thread.
Now I need some spacers made up to place at the bottom the the factory strut to push up the AE92 shocks I bought. Now I know this is a pretty common thing to do.
What I ask is, do I get solid bits of alloy made up to neatly fit inside bottom of the strut? Or do I get a piece fabricated and weld it to the bottom of the shock body?
Any one have some measurements to go by?
Cheers, Steelo
Xmas and New Years are out of the way now so it's time to get back to work on the Levin which you have probably seen on my project thread.
Now I need some spacers made up to place at the bottom the the factory strut to push up the AE92 shocks I bought. Now I know this is a pretty common thing to do.
What I ask is, do I get solid bits of alloy made up to neatly fit inside bottom of the strut? Or do I get a piece fabricated and weld it to the bottom of the shock body?
Any one have some measurements to go by?
Cheers, Steelo
2012 Subaru WRX
1985 Toyota Levin
2014 Yamaha MT-07
1985 Toyota Levin
2014 Yamaha MT-07
- HachirokuGTV
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- HachirokuGTV
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- Mr Revhead
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yes TRD do spacers to fit certain inserts into certain shocks
what shocks did you get?
you may need to put the inserts in the shock and measure what you need to do. in my ke70 is was an odd figure, like 52mm. i use steel as i felt certain alloys could be a bit soft and dont know enough about them to chose one that would work. besides, steel was cheap
what shocks did you get?
you may need to put the inserts in the shock and measure what you need to do. in my ke70 is was an odd figure, like 52mm. i use steel as i felt certain alloys could be a bit soft and dont know enough about them to chose one that would work. besides, steel was cheap
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- HachirokuGTV
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d1 mule wrote:you could always shorten the strut casing to suit the shock. = lower but still captive
But if you do this you lose even more travel and you will have to get the springs compressed, because if you cut down the strut the distance from the spring perch to the top of the strut will be dramatically decreased.
I had the same thought until Autolign explained it to me and my trd springs wouldn't have compressed 50mm+ with spring clamps so you have to go to Stocks or someone similar to have them done. $200.00 for a pair plus the cost to get the casing cut down. $75.00 each i think.
The spacer is fine. The TRD ones I have are steel and I dont think I would use alloy.
- HachirokuGTV
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I guess its a different story if its a coilover.
When i asked Autolign why they couldnt just take the section out below the spring perch they actually told me they wouldn't do it and that its basically frowned upon.
They would only cut above the spring perch and then re-thread the top for the nut that keeps the strut insert.
When i asked Autolign why they couldnt just take the section out below the spring perch they actually told me they wouldn't do it and that its basically frowned upon.
They would only cut above the spring perch and then re-thread the top for the nut that keeps the strut insert.
I got some made up by an engineer at my old work. Best to take some measurements then get some made up, I wouldn't trust an off the shelf item to work unless it is guaranteed to fit with a specific shock.
We used steel but it adds a bit of weight, he suggested some engineering grade plastic but I just wanted it on the road so didn't investigate further.
We used steel but it adds a bit of weight, he suggested some engineering grade plastic but I just wanted it on the road so didn't investigate further.
anything below the spring platform is holding up the weight of the car. so a cut and weld here is not advised. above the platform is just there to hold the shock into the strut casing. so it's ok to cut here but you change the distance from the platform to the top of the insert housing.
spacer is the the cheapest, easiest and safest way to do it. any engineering shop should be able to make them up if you can't buy them.
spacer is the the cheapest, easiest and safest way to do it. any engineering shop should be able to make them up if you can't buy them.
meh.....
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