Dealings with Oil Changers.

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Postby Bling » Mon Feb 25, 2008 11:32 pm

MRDRFT wrote:i dont recomend infector cleeaner some of there are a lil suspect and can clog fuel pump,i would just run it neally empty and give it a healthy tank of 98!


you don't recommend injector cleaner......but instead recommend running the tank nearly empty so that any (possible) sediment in the tank gets in the pump. I would have thought it would be much of a muchness :lol: :wink:
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Postby fangsport » Tue Feb 26, 2008 12:57 am

BZG|Bling wrote:
MRDRFT wrote:i dont recomend infector cleeaner some of there are a lil suspect and can clog fuel pump,i would just run it neally empty and give it a healthy tank of 98!


you don't recommend injector cleaner......but instead recommend running the tank nearly empty so that any (possible) sediment in the tank gets in the pump. I would have thought it would be much of a muchness :lol: :wink:
no, because you SHOULD have a filter before the pump.
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Postby rollaholic » Tue Feb 26, 2008 6:54 am

that whole "dont run it empty au" thing makes me laugh.

A) where do you think the pickup for the pump is? at the top of the tank, away from all the "sediment"?
B) what fangsport said
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Postby Mad Murphy » Tue Feb 26, 2008 9:22 am

I used oil changers once because I was in a hurry, it was pretty cheap as I recall, maybe its gone up since? I wouldn't use them again though, they did up the filter impossibly tight.
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Postby fivebob » Tue Feb 26, 2008 1:15 pm

rollaholic wrote:that whole "dont run it empty au" thing makes me laugh.

A) where do you think the pickup for the pump is? at the top of the tank, away from all the "sediment"?
B) what fangsport said

Yep, it's an old wives tale, and you'd have to be an old woman to believe it. All it takes is a little common sense to realise that running it to empty does not increase the chance of having sediment pickup... Hint... Sediment is heavier than fuel. Couple that with the observation that in-tank pumps have filters before the pump and you can see why it's a myth. :roll:

FWIW I've been running my tank to empty for the last 30 years or so, never had one clogged fuel filter or other sediment related problem. :wink:
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Postby Bling » Tue Feb 26, 2008 3:33 pm

fangsport wrote:
BZG|Bling wrote:
MRDRFT wrote:i dont recomend infector cleeaner some of there are a lil suspect and can clog fuel pump,i would just run it neally empty and give it a healthy tank of 98!


you don't recommend injector cleaner......but instead recommend running the tank nearly empty so that any (possible) sediment in the tank gets in the pump. I would have thought it would be much of a muchness :lol: :wink:
no, because you SHOULD have a filter before the pump.


cool bananas. My point was there shouldn't be a difference between running injector cleaner or running it empty. I wasn't very clear.

how about some constructive posts to actually HELP this person :lol: :roll:
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Postby holden_fan2005 » Tue Feb 26, 2008 7:26 pm

With an engine flush, don't you just buy a bottle from supercheap/ripco and throw in it your engine and run it with the old oil for 15mins then you do the normal drain/filter thing?

Seems nice n simple to me.
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Postby Simon K » Tue Feb 26, 2008 7:34 pm

holden_fan2005 wrote:With an engine flush, don't you just buy a bottle from supercheap/ripco and throw in it your engine and run it with the old oil for 15mins then you do the normal drain/filter thing?

Seems nice n simple to me.


Interweb scuttlebut is that these can dislodge gungey deposits that may cause more trouble as they move through the engine. I feel that if you use good oil/filters and change regularly, thats the safest bet.
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Postby Mike- » Tue Feb 26, 2008 8:28 pm

sometimes if the oil is quite bad ill run some cheap oil for a day then change to something a bit flasher
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Postby Al » Tue Feb 26, 2008 9:10 pm

I'll do it in my driveway for a dozen and you supply oil/filter.
Not interested in doing the coolant flush though :lol:
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Postby KwS » Tue Feb 26, 2008 9:13 pm

Simon K wrote:
holden_fan2005 wrote:With an engine flush, don't you just buy a bottle from supercheap/ripco and throw in it your engine and run it with the old oil for 15mins then you do the normal drain/filter thing?

Seems nice n simple to me.


Interweb scuttlebut is that these can dislodge gungey deposits that may cause more trouble as they move through the engine. I feel that if you use good oil/filters and change regularly, thats the safest bet.


been there, done that. my old luce didnt leak a drop of anything... until i put engine flush through it. started leaking from somewhere on the front of the engine.

dont know if i'd use it again... it did a good job cleaning my engines guts... but theres the risk of it moving sludge to a small oil passage and blocking it.
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Postby rollaholic » Tue Feb 26, 2008 10:36 pm

engine oil is supposed to have detergents etc in it anyway. if you think your car needs engine flush, just change the oil more regularly imo.

have been told the active ingredient in it (dont remember what its called) can cause oil seals to harden, but dont know how true it is. we use it on customers cars from time to time at their request, but usually the cars that people want engine flush in are already clapped out leakers so i've never noticed it make much difference in that respect ;)
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Postby sergei » Tue Feb 26, 2008 10:52 pm

rollaholic wrote:engine oil is supposed to have detergents etc in it anyway. if you think your car needs engine flush, just change the oil more regularly imo.

have been told the active ingredient in it (dont remember what its called) can cause oil seals to harden, but dont know how true it is. we use it on customers cars from time to time at their request, but usually the cars that people want engine flush in are already clapped out leakers so i've never noticed it make much difference in that respect ;)


The engine flush is kerosene (mainly). The kerosene is a lot more reactive than say diesel or oil, which can lead to drying up the seals. But generally with smaller percentage it should be ok.
I would rather use diesel engine oil every 2000kms on lightly sludged engine. Flushing sludged engine can lead to dire consequences of sludge breaking off and blocking the strainer/oil pathways or oil pressure control valve. Generally sludged engines also have dried up seals, so when that particular engine is flushed it will start leak and smoke. Also sludge is very abrasive and I have seen SRs with round cams. Best way to remove sludge is to disassemble the engine to state where only metal parts left and use industrial grade paint stripper (soak it in it), after the paint stripper eaten away the sludge, it is best to soak it in the kerosene or even acid dip it. To save the money on the rebuild (if the bores are not worn/polished) leave the pistons inside the block while removing everything else (but I would either rebuild it properly or get another second hand engine with low kms). It is best to put brand new oil pump and blow through all the oil galleries.
But generally flushing does not work. just use higher quality oil and Toyota genuine filters.
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Postby RomanV » Tue Feb 26, 2008 11:55 pm

Russian fudge analogy applies here.

Two ways to cook russian fudge.

One is to cook the fudge while stirring it constantly, this means that the bottom never gets burnt by the hot pan.

The second way to cook the fudge is to not stir it at all, and just eat the top part that isnt burnt, and leave the burnt bottom part in the pan.

However if you start stirring the fudge half way through, you mix burnt bits through the whole thing, and none of it is edible.

In my experience this applies rather well with oily gunked up engines, old coolant lines etc, etc etc.

For example, I had a perfectly good water pump, till I ran a coolant flush, which then seemed to dissolve all of the dirt holding it together. I now had a waterpump which pissed water out, every which way.

Same with a mate who hadnt done an oil change for about a year and a half.... (lol) His engine died the day after he changed the oil, blocked all of the oil galleries to the head by stirring up all of the old crap in the motor. (Yes, it was an SR motor :P )
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Postby RedMist » Wed Feb 27, 2008 7:14 am

BZG|Bling wrote:
MRDRFT wrote:i dont recomend infector cleeaner some of there are a lil suspect and can clog fuel pump,i would just run it neally empty and give it a healthy tank of 98!


you don't recommend injector cleaner......but instead recommend running the tank nearly empty so that any (possible) sediment in the tank gets in the pump. I would have thought it would be much of a muchness :lol: :wink:


Modern fuels already contain chemicals designed to clean injectors. I can't see how adding more can clean them any better. Which leads to the question... has anyone ever seen an injector down on flow? I've seen catestrophic foriegn material clogs or fusing, but never seen an injector down on flow due to fuel varnishing.
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