cost to turbo 4age?

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Postby Lloyd » Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:01 pm

d1 mule wrote:i managed to build a 7AGE for $1600 including buying a complete smallport and a 7AFE long block, ACL race big ends, ACL mains, Genuine toyota Rings beagings and Head gasket. and yeah it was Professionally balanced, long block assembled, head skimmed and crack tested, rebuilt oil pump etc.

thats right a complete professionally built 7AGE for $1600



Woooo, standard engine with a different head bolted on.

I'm just find my super-impressed boots


Doing it yourself and not including all the extras like fueling and so on as mentioned counts for f*ck all to someone who is paying to get work done and not getting the "mad hook-ups" for their bits.
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Postby IH8TEC » Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:11 pm

all comes down to how much power, and how reliable.

my complete motor "setup" would be over 10k easy.

in setup i mean fuel intercooler, ignition, a reliable drivetrain to cope, making it look nice, having very good quality parts, high temp coatings, and thats doing the labor myself except assembling the bottom end.

admittedly, my fuel system might be overkill, but hey, good for track, drag, road, rally, whatever i may use the car for. and most would not do this.

10k should yeild you a nice, very reliable, good power setup
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Postby rollaholic » Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:12 pm

not everyone can do the work themselves.

not everyone wants to make 120kw.

theres no reason to buy a 4agze for $1500 when you can buy a set of brand new 4AGZE pistons for like $400.
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Postby d1 mule » Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:12 pm

HRT wrote:
d1 mule wrote:i managed to build a 7AGE for $1600 including buying a complete smallport and a 7AFE long block, ACL race big ends, ACL mains, Genuine toyota Rings beagings and Head gasket. and yeah it was Professionally balanced, long block assembled, head skimmed and crack tested, rebuilt oil pump etc.

thats right a complete professionally built 7AGE for $1600



Woooo, standard engine with a different head bolted on.

I'm just find my super-impressed boots


Doing it yourself and not including all the extras like fueling and so on as mentioned counts for f*ck all to someone who is paying to get work done and not getting the "mad hook-ups" for their bits.



how is that a standard engine? fitting the small port pistons in the 7AFE, modifying the 4A Gudgeons to fit 7A rods to "full floating" spec. aproc Comp ratio accprding to engine re builder 12-12.5:1.

there is clearly a difference of opinions here. IMO $6K EASY.
best way to learn is to do stuff yourself
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Postby rollaholic » Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:15 pm

its standard cos you pieced it together with a bunch of toyota parts.

if you want a budget setup pushing 120-140kw then maybe you can get away with 6k.
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Postby YeMs » Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:18 pm

lets put it this way. labour cost a shit load. if you cant do anything yourself then atleast half your money will go on labour.

link computer = around $1350 depends on if you just want a G3 LEM or if you want a G3 PLUS your going to spend around $2300. then you have to get it wired in and unless you can do it yourself or have frineds in the industry its gunna cost abit. then ontop of that you have optional extras for example: boost control solenoid, air temp sensor etc which will cost more.

turbo = you can spend any were from $400 - $2500 on a turbo. depends if you want something that will last the test of time. a genuine roller bearing garret or [insert name of expencive upmarket turbo here] turbo is going to come on boost faster and last a shite load longer than a trademe special thats only $400 and is missing half the bearings.

manifold = custom made steampipe manifolds can range depending on if you can do it yourself or you get sum1 else to make it. im guessing you wont be able to in which case around the $600 (if you ask some 1 who has done them before and has a jig made up) you mite find something on trademe that will suit your needs for cheaper but you need to take into account weather you want top mount/low mount, external/internal wastegate, position of turbo and room etc.

also you need to consider things such-as injectors/fuel pump/rising rate fuel pressure reg/intercooler and piping/pop off valve/wastegate (if external) misc oil and water lines/gauges and senders/driveline (LSD, rooted CVs etc)/dyno tuning/internal engine upgrades....

i could go on for more but you really need to decide on a power goal etc like you say.. how long is a piece of string..

some people do it quite cheap.. it is possible. get a 4agze long block with ECU, slap a turbo on the side, do abit of plumbing for IC and oil feed and run the GZE ECU..
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Postby YeMs » Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:22 pm

IH8TEC wrote:all comes down to how much power, and how reliable.


thats probably the sinlge most thing you need to take into account to start with..
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Postby ~SlideWays~ » Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:25 pm

lol I don't want to add up how much I've spent! Even though I did a lot myself, it'd still be a scary number but meh :lol:

PS...Im sure this discussion has happened before...once or twice. :wink:
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Postby Crampy » Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:28 pm

Simple.
Buy this:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 742456.htm

Redtop 4age rebuilt with 4agze pistons & silvertop rods
Trd mild race cams & adjustable cam gears
Port & polished head
T3 hybrid turbo, 0.48 ar exhaust housing (extremely rare), 0.60 ar compressor housing, garrett stage 2 wheels rebuilt by bay turbos 10000km ago. This is an extremely good turbo, will run 20+ psi efficently all day long.
Custom made action dan manifold
Tial 38mm external wastegate with screamer pipe (can be plumbed back up for wof)
Super sequential blow off valve
Water to air intercooler
All silicon joins on intercooler piping
Link LEM V5 computer
550cc Rx7 injectors
Evo 4 fuel pump
Malpassi rising rate fuel pres reg
Twin blow through fans on radiator
Oil catch can
Earls fittings & braided fuel lines
Polished rocker covers
Simota pod filter
2 1/4" exhaust
Brand new 4 puk brass button clutch
Dobi springs & shortend shocks
16" Advanti Stalkers rims
Goodyear Eagle f1s with lots of tread on the front & brand new gt radials on the back
Auto meter tacho & prosport boost oil pres & water temp gauges
Sportline steering wheel
Solex locks
Uniden 5 star rated alarm

220hp & 430nm torque @ wheels @ 8psi


Then put it in your car. Get the Link wired in and retuned. Sell your motor, sell your gearbox, sell the AE101 body or put a motor in it and sell it. With the money you make from selling stuff will help pay for tune and install and maybe a gearbox and LSD.

Well, maybe not so simple, but it'd go well in your car. Hell you could even keep it in the AE101 if you wanted and sell your car.
It's had all the work done to it and would haul a$$.
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Postby IH8TEC » Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:28 pm

~SlideWays~ wrote:lol I don't want to add up how much I've spent! Even though I did a lot myself, it'd still be a scary number but meh :lol:

PS...Im sure this discussion has happened before...once or twice. :wink:


i know what ya mean :lol:

and this must be the 10th time at least over the years
Current Rides: 1994 Hiace Custom
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Previous Car: 1988 Toyota Levin 4agte
234kw atw and 12.5@183kmh
Sold to a muppit who wrecked it
Hmm
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Postby d1 mule » Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:29 pm

rollaholic wrote:its standard cos you pieced it together with a bunch of toyota parts.

if you want a budget setup pushing 120-140kw then maybe you can get away with 6k.


so if i spent $1000 on aftermarket high comp pistons it no longr is standard it becomes modified?? or for arguements sake low comp forges. that is all that will be internally different, everything else is "bolt on" what makes my engine any different to that?

buy yas i totally agree with YeMs, there are two ways about it "cheap" and Expensive. Eace yelding good results but feel free to spend 10-15K on your engine, im more than happy with my $6k very outside maximum engine.

my goal is to have my JZX81 with 1JZGTE W55 HD clutch, Adjustables, walbro FMIC etc going for 7K (track car) then 3K for cage seat etc etc
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Postby Jooce » Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:32 pm

sweet so you guys have managed to confuse the shit outta me. maybe i should buy a skyline.. lol

nah but seriously that ae92 gtz looks awesome.
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Postby escortman » Mon Mar 03, 2008 9:53 pm

il be just over 10k when i get ecu
toyota supra 1996 2jzgte t64 turbonetics
Was 300hp on 10psi with stock twins, hopefully on similar boost be around 400hp

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RIP 13sec AE82 fxgt 4agte 5psi TD05 20g
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Postby l1ttle_d3vil » Mon Mar 03, 2008 10:02 pm

YeMs wrote:
IH8TEC wrote:all comes down to how much power, and how reliable.


thats probably the sinlge most thing you need to take into account to start with..


yep, i started off with a corolla, already running standard 4age bluetop/upgraded diff/gearbox/driveline etc. i added:
* turbo / manifold / dump pipe - $500
* intercooler / piping / blow off valve - $250 (scored a decent deal, so thats cheapish too)
* boost gauge - $50
* oil pressure gauge - $50
* oil lines - free (normally $100ish)
* labour to install /set it all up - free (was a full days work, you do the math for labour)

so thats $850 and I got a 4age turbo in and running, goes hard BUT its running on stock bluetop everything @ 8psi and the engine is already stuffed. but it goes. I would rather have something more reliable + more power, that comes are more cost. next upgrade will be:
* 4agze to handle da boozzt - $800 (with no s/c etc etc)
* link ecu - $1350
* tune - $500
* wiring - $300 maybe?
* bigger injectors - $250
* bigger clutch setup - $500
* external wastegate - $350
* bigger exhaust - $200?

thats another $4250 added on JUST to make it reliable + go faster. that is NOT including ANY labour (apart from tune/wiring), or rebuilding etc etc. while the engine is out you may as well replace the belts/waterpump/gaskets/seals etc, easily another $200 + new fluids etc.
and as I said, I started off with a vehicle which already had an upgraded diff/gearbox/suspension/fuel system etc - that would easily be $4k for my setup - would be different for a fwd car i guess.
this is all quoted from experience, and i've taken a couple of years to build my stuff up - just keeping an eye out for cheap stuff as it turns up. the above prices are the average prices you would pick stuff up for, some could be had for cheaper, some for or more*


*DISCLAIMER: This is not gospel, I am not god, do not crucify me for anything said above. it is based purely on my own experience and my honest opinion. my setup and experience resembles, in no way, shape or form, the experience which your neighbours pet goat experienced while building his 700hp 4agte. thankyou.
Last edited by l1ttle_d3vil on Mon Mar 03, 2008 10:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Rob_GTZ » Mon Mar 03, 2008 10:12 pm

Jooce wrote:does he have a project thread for that car? somewhere i could have a decent look at it without travelling to auckz ?


What do you wanna know? I did everything on that car except the turbo conversion. Built it up from stock to what you see in the pictures over the 4 years my brother owned it
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Postby Bazda » Mon Mar 03, 2008 11:26 pm

The old saying is, you get what you pay for.
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Postby Lloyd » Mon Mar 03, 2008 11:35 pm

Which goes along nicely with the "Work out the cost and double it" saying
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Postby method » Tue Mar 04, 2008 12:11 am

My turbo setup cost me $1500 Not including the bluetop engine which is worth about $100....

Car goes real well, only boosting 8psi. Yet to dyno it. My conservative ass dyno says 130ish kw. Not much but in a 800kg car its fine. i would say it would give my last evo a run for its money, and that pulled a 13.0 and over 200kw which isnt shabby.

Other people have got close to 200 with simmilar setups, but a whole lot more boost and spent a whole lot more money getting the engine reliable. And to that i say, why not just buy a bigger capacity engine in the first place instead of throwing mega bucks at a small engine.

As mentioned earlier, depends how much you want to spend.

In all honesty, this is how i see it. You dont need that much power when negotiating corners, and thats where the fun driving is. Striaght lines are only the shortest route to the next corner!
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Postby escortman » Tue Mar 04, 2008 6:33 am

Bazda wrote:The old saying is, you get what you pay for.


thats exactly it, i went through 1 good condition 4agze and then a head that i had just spent $400 on, do it right 1st time

for my next car if i decide to put a 4agte in ill be buying a car like that red ae101 and pulling the motor out so much cheaper and easier
toyota supra 1996 2jzgte t64 turbonetics
Was 300hp on 10psi with stock twins, hopefully on similar boost be around 400hp

4x4 toyota blizzard offroader

widebody markII escort panelvan

RIP 13sec AE82 fxgt 4agte 5psi TD05 20g
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Postby THA SHZ » Tue Mar 04, 2008 9:35 am

to put it simply , if you can do work yourself then go for it , but if you cant do the majority yourself , then buy that one off trademe 8)
My one has cost me $7000 including car and suspension and everything , but i do majority oif the work but welding i leave up 2 simon :lol:
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