Caldina GTT Dash Problem.. NOW FIXED

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Caldina GTT Dash Problem.. NOW FIXED

Postby cedwards » Fri Feb 22, 2008 9:42 pm

I had the joy of the Caldina dash problem today...
No speedo, rev counter, accompanied by the engine check light coming on after driving a bit.

Now I see this is a pretty common problem:

viewtopic.php?t=63416&highlight=instrument+cluster

viewtopic.php?t=62460&highlight=instrument+cluster

viewtopic.php?t=55240&highlight=instrument+cluster

viewtopic.php?t=50729&highlight=instrument+cluster

viewtopic.php?t=43352&highlight=instrument+cluster

I turned the ignition off and re-started the car but problem persisted I continued driving and the next time I looked bout 2 mins later all was normal again??

I haven't done the diagnostic yet but expect to get 42 (speed sensor code)
My question then is from all that have had the same prob, was the source all the same? is it the connector on the back of the Cluster or the ECU connection, or is there a common dry solder in the cluster itself???
Any feedback would be appreciated as this will then group all the same threads and hopefull all the solutions. 8)
Last edited by cedwards on Sat Mar 01, 2008 4:27 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Mr.Phreak » Sat Feb 23, 2008 12:42 am

I'd only suspect a connector if the dash was recently out, those things are tight little bastards (as you'll find out if you ever have to undo them)

Try a little percussive maintenance if it happens again
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Postby cedwards » Thu Feb 28, 2008 2:36 pm

Had round three of dash joy today.
It seems a gentle tap to the steering column just below the steering wheel (near ignition) from underneath causes the fault to intermittently rectify itself leaving the gauges suspended where they were at the time of last contact.
Is there a connector in this vicinity or should I assume it is more just the vibrations travelling up and into the dash where the loose connection coud be :?:
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Postby Stu- » Thu Feb 28, 2008 5:20 pm

I had this problem so took the cluster out and dropped it into Milford Auto Electrical who diagnosed it and fixed the dry joint internally that caused the problem. Was done in a day - can't remember the price thou... wasn't a huge bill from mem.
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Postby cedwards » Sat Mar 01, 2008 3:56 pm

Had to drive back from greenlane yesterday with the engine light on continually a good 45 mins. By the time I got home was trully pissed with the whole thing and pulled it to bits...
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Postby cedwards » Sat Mar 01, 2008 4:26 pm

Found the fault in the odometer circuitry,
There is a rectangular black chip on the bottom right when you orientate the circuit board with the LCD plug pointing away from you, this rectangular chip has the numbers "4.000" and under this "81:" printed on it. Now the inboard solder on this circuit was dry, I removed the chip entirely and resoldered both connectors. Plugged it all back together and all is sweet!! :D
Will need a few days to fully confirm fault fixed but at present it is all working as it should.

(will post pics when I work out how to, in process of registering for photoshack)
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Postby bbq1988 » Thu Mar 06, 2008 12:29 pm

cedwards wrote:Found the fault in the odometer circuitry,
There is a rectangular black chip on the bottom right when you orientate the circuit board with the LCD plug pointing away from you, this rectangular chip has the numbers "4.000" and under this "81:" printed on it. Now the inboard solder on this circuit was dry, I removed the chip entirely and resoldered both connectors. Plugged it all back together and all is sweet!! :D
Will need a few days to fully confirm fault fixed but at present it is all working as it should.

(will post pics when I work out how to, in process of registering for photoshack)


Luck? if so can a mod please FAQ :)
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Postby cedwards » Thu Mar 06, 2008 3:22 pm

Works like a dream :!: :D
Even think the car is running way smoother, but that is most likely just my imagination. :?
Maybe someone with a bit more know how on the GTT ecu when it is displaying the engine check light due to this prob, could confirm if it runs in a safe, "limp home" mode or not :?:
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Postby BZG Wagon » Sat Mar 08, 2008 5:30 pm

LOL - this has happened to me on about 4 separate occasions - generally when the car has been left somewhere wet / moist. It either comes back after 30 seconds or restarting the car fixes it.

Glad to hear its quite common - I was stressing that the speedo had been disconnected and the kms weren't correct.

The only other problem I now experience is the flashing seatbelt light stops flashing & stays constant when my seat belt isn't on (intermittently).
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Postby bbq1988 » Sat Mar 08, 2008 7:58 pm

good to hear that it works! im going to have to pull mine apart tomorow :(
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Postby BZG Wagon » Sat Mar 08, 2008 9:52 pm

cedwards wrote:Works like a dream :!: :D
Even think the car is running way smoother, but that is most likely just my imagination. :?
Maybe someone with a bit more know how on the GTT ecu when it is displaying the engine check light due to this prob, could confirm if it runs in a safe, "limp home" mode or not :?:


It will be a 'speed sensor fault'. I doubt it would run in a 'limp mode'.

The fault will be stored in the ECU unless you clear it with a scan tool or reset the ECU (although the engine light will not flash unless in diagnostic mode).

On the diagnostic plug to the lower right of the steering wheel, bridge the 5th port from the right the top part of the plug with the 4th port from the right on the lower part of the plug to find out what error codes are stored.
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Postby Zak » Sat Mar 08, 2008 10:19 pm

They run like s**t with out the speed sensor. Doesn't change very well, rough driving, sluggish take off, and no overdrive.

You don't need to clear the code for it to return to normal, but it is still recomended.
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Postby bbq1988 » Sun Mar 09, 2008 10:12 am

how did you remove the small lcd screen?
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Postby bbq1988 » Sun Mar 09, 2008 10:22 am

Nevermind :)
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Postby cedwards » Sun Mar 16, 2008 9:06 am

Sorry BBQ was away for a week, LCD was a tricky one I ended up pulling the opposite end of the circuit board out then pulling on the board left the screen behind.
How'd you get on success?
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Postby cedwards » Sun Mar 16, 2008 9:08 am

Zak luckily mine is a manual, I can only imagine what a pain the auto would be when this error is in play.
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Postby bbq1988 » Sun Mar 16, 2008 12:52 pm

the LCD was just a multipin socket, just pulled it out with alittle force. The chip in mine was stainding on its side.. the solder had completly broken away :/
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Postby sergei » Sun Mar 16, 2008 6:59 pm

these sort of problem occur because of this stupid RoHS standard.
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Postby xsspeed » Thu May 22, 2008 11:20 am

Sorry to drag up old thread but if I pull out the cluster is it easy to locate the drypoint and solder my self?
I only have a very basic iron and solder, or is it worthwhile taking it to an auto sparky to get done?
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Postby bbq1988 » Thu May 22, 2008 11:29 am

if you dont feel confident take it to a sparky, its not to hard but rather important not to stuff up :)

Otherwise its easy if you can solder (well-ish)
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