Bluetop blowing smoke with no power

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Postby mike227 » Sat Jun 21, 2008 9:07 pm

ChaosAD wrote:A 10mm 1/2" drive socket wont fit in the head. a long socket MAY fit but the standard ones dont seem to.

Youll need a 10mm doublehex 3/8" drive socket and extention, then get a 3/8-1/2" reducer and get a decent 1/2" drive powerbar on there.

Ive usually found after replacing the headgaskets that the rings are stuffed, but it should still go alright.


Almost the set up ive got now, yesterday afternoon got a good 3/8 12 sided 10mm then after destorying the 3/8 extention and rachet got a 3/8" to 1/2" plus another 1/2" extention (would feel bloody stupid having gone to all that effort then destroying a dodgey 1/2" extention). But come to think of it now, the 3\8" to 1/2" expander may not fit. last night I put my shiny new 12 sided 10mm some where safe where I woudln't loose it, where was that?
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Postby Cakky » Sun Jun 22, 2008 5:26 pm

when the headgasket blew did you get alot of oil in your water? if you did I'd suggest that you flush the heater system out really well I had mine powerflushed and the amount of crap that came out was amazing hahaha
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Postby mike227 » Mon Jun 23, 2008 11:23 pm

Well the head is off now, I'm pretty stoked at how far I've got.

No oli in the water, but masses and masses of rust in the coolant bits, some of them had rusted shut even. Once its back together, is it safe (expensive I know) to run entirely coolant rather than mixing it with water like the instructions say?

But yeah the gasket has rusted through from the exhaust side 4th piston coolant area. The gasket mostly came off clean, and with the power bar set up the bolts were a breeze (it was really only 1 that was really stuck, but i didnt want to skip it out and get out of order for loosening the bolts).

The head has been dropped off for a measure and some machining if required, now I just have to track down a head gasket, I'm guessing Toyota orignal parts are the way to go? all the other gaskets came off very cleanly so i assume they can be reused?
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Postby mike227 » Tue Jul 01, 2008 9:04 pm

The repair is going nicely, today I got an oil filter, a repco RZ158, that is supposed to be for 4ages, it goes on fine, but is around 2cm taller than the previous one. it will still clear the exhaust manifold, but sits quite close. Will this be a problem? Any one else here using a taller repco one?
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Postby 85AW20v » Tue Jul 01, 2008 9:51 pm

Make sure you clean off the block surface really well and especially round the rusted no. 4 area. It's a common place for them to go and if you don't get it right this it'll go there again very quickly. Get hold of a TRD 0.8 or 0.5mm metal gasket - just give you a bit higher compression ratio. Check the sponsors area for contacts now that Revhead has moved on from Toyota.
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Postby pc » Tue Jul 01, 2008 11:03 pm

mike227 wrote:The repair is going nicely, today I got an oil filter, a repco RZ158, that is supposed to be for 4ages, it goes on fine, but is around 2cm taller than the previous one. it will still clear the exhaust manifold, but sits quite close. Will this be a problem? Any one else here using a taller repco one?

I use one on both my AE82s and although the clearence is less, it still works ok. I wish the oil drain back seals on repco filters worked though.
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Postby Dragger_Dan » Wed Jul 02, 2008 1:12 am

ChaosAD wrote:A 10mm 1/2" drive socket wont fit in the head. a long socket MAY fit but the standard ones dont seem to.

Youll need a 10mm doublehex 3/8" drive socket and extention, then get a 3/8-1/2" reducer and get a decent 1/2" drive powerbar on there.

Ive usually found after replacing the headgaskets that the rings are stuffed, but it should still go alright.



I'll second all of that. If you need a 10mm double hex that's strong I'd suggest a Superworks Gold one from Supercheap. Mine has done nearly a dozen sets of 4AGE head bolts and is still going strong. Costs F.A. as well.
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Postby mike227 » Fri Jul 04, 2008 8:38 pm

Ive put the injectors back in, they dont however sit flush between the fuel rail (?) and the head? they have 4 or 5 mm movement up and down.

I'm pretty sure that the injector holes in the block havent been machined down, but nor can I remember how they were when I took it apart, I havent how ever missed out washers or anything. any suggestions?
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Postby rollaholic » Fri Jul 04, 2008 8:44 pm

got all the O rings and seals on the injectors? fuel rail spacers on?
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Postby mike227 » Fri Jul 04, 2008 8:57 pm

rollaholic wrote:got all the O rings and seals on the injectors? fuel rail spacers on?


All the 0 rings are on, fuel rail spacers are on too, i've had a good hunt for anything else that shodul go on, its all labeled so should be pretty obvious if its there.

Ok so (is this right):

the injectors have a kinda black plastic seat bit which sits in the block, then up the other end there is just 1 spacer.

AND

The rail bolt spacers are symetrical? (when looking from the side?)

The fat part about 1cm tall, with 3mm of narrow at each end? its just that theres a line around the spacers about 3mm along the fat part, like ive accidently pushed 2 different spacers together?
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