Head Gaskets

[Dell'Orto]

Maybe glaringly obviously, but its not detonating is it?

[Mr Revhead]

have you got the engine builder involved?

[deaf_rattle]

also, what boost have you been running with the new head gaskets? you dont want to give it too much to start with.

[Malcolm]

has the block been resurfaced?

[Adydas]

Block and head have been resurfaced, 1.3 bar.. All ok by both engine builder and tuner who set the timing and stuff via laptop days after the rebuild..

[MAGN1T]

Maybe they took too much off the head and weakened it so now the roof of the combustion chamber is lifting under boost.
With sufficient boost combined with detonation you can unseal just about any headgasket.

Steve

[DFECTED]

you would have had to surface mm's off the head to make it too thin.

The block could be cracked, I've heard of acouple of 3sgtes cracking between the middle two cylinders I think

[TOYWGN]

Cliff if your needing new bolts for the head as in ARP check these guys out..


http://www.staparts.co.nz/

Not to sure if they are any cheaper than anyone else but doesnt hurt to have a looksey.

[Dell'Orto]

I would probably go with 41 for ARP bits, Mac has been the best priced of anyone I've found.

[deaf_rattle]

I would probably go with 41 for ARP bits, Mac has been the best priced of anyone I've found.

x2 great guy to deal with too

[Py7h0n]

A common problem with 1jz and 7m etc with blowing headgaskets is nobody surfaces the blocks.

I've never seen or heard of a 1JZ / 2JZ blowing a headgasket! I've seen them lift heads under high boost but still not blow the gasket!

I would go with the ARP's to try and fix the problem.

[MAGN1T]

I'd have thought that something like a knocklink would be better value, as prevention. Afterall I've sure I'm not the only one that's heard of a "link" changing state of tune with the weather.


BTW Dfected is an engine reconditioner so I'm sure he's seen warped block faces besides his own ones.

Steve

[fivebob]

Have you got a close up photo of the headgasket, head or block showing where the combustion gasses were escaping into the water jacket??

To me the block and head look too clean, the headgasket coating should have adhered more to them. Did you clean the block & head throughly before fitting the head, a spray of brakekleen of other such solvent to remove any trace of oil might be a good idea.

Obviously you didn't re-torque the head, which IMO is a mistake, but did you heat cycle the engine before boosting it??

If it was me I'd take it for a few long runs (50-100kms) and let it cool down completely between runs before I'd give it any boost, I'd also check and re-torque the head after 100 & 500kms.

There's plenty of engine out there running high boost and big HP on the stock head bolts so I don't think changng to ARP studs is going to solve your problem.

[matt dunn]

The gasket its self ( both times been metal ), Or perhaps the bolts? or could it be the gallery sizing not cooling enough?

IMO, throw the steel gasket in the bin, and put a genuine standard toyota gasket on it with new studs.

The steel gaskets are too thin and dont have enough squish in them to seal well enough on non perfect surfaces.

[fivebob]

The gasket its self ( both times been metal ), Or perhaps the bolts? or could it be the gallery sizing not cooling enough?

IMO, throw the steel gasket in the bin, and put a genuine standard toyota gasket on it with new studs.

The steel gaskets are too thin and dont have enough squish in them to seal well enough on non perfect surfaces.

The standard Toyota Gen III 3S-GTE gasket is steel

[matt dunn]

The gasket its self ( both times been metal ), Or perhaps the bolts? or could it be the gallery sizing not cooling enough?

IMO, throw the steel gasket in the bin, and put a genuine standard toyota gasket on it with new studs.

The steel gaskets are too thin and dont have enough squish in them to seal well enough on non perfect surfaces.

The standard Toyota Gen III 3S-GTE gasket is steel

haha, thought by steel he was meaning one of the TRD type layered steel gaskets,
which I bought for my car, took one look at and sold on trademe.
The standard 20V ones are steel on one side and material on the other.

Are the 3SGTE one's like that too, or just steel?

[fivebob]

haha, thought by steel he was meaning one of the TRD type layered steel gaskets,
which I bought for my car, took one look at and sold on trademe.
The standard 20V ones are steel on one side and material on the other.

Are the 3SGTE one's like that too, or just steel?

Multi-Layered Steel just like the TRD one
http://www.kbox.ca/catalog/images/SV503379.JPG

[matt dunn]

Multi-Layered Steel just like the TRD one
http://www.kbox.ca/catalog/images/SV503379.JPG

Well I'd be looking for another type of gasket.
earlier or later model 3S one's that aren't multi layered steel?

[fivebob]

Multi-Layered Steel just like the TRD one
http://www.kbox.ca/catalog/images/SV503379.JPG

Well I'd be looking for another type of gasket.
earlier or later model 3S one's that aren't multi layered steel?

The Gen III gasket was a vast improvement on the earlier composite ones, which were well known for blowing when the boost was turned up.

Unless there's something wrong with the way the head and block were resurfaced then the standard steel gasket should be more than capable of doing the job.Stock Gen III gaskets have been used on quite a few 500HP+ 3S-GTEs, so I don't think there are any inherent problems with them.

Yamaha have been using multi-layered steel gaskets for over 25 years and IME they are a lot less prone to failure than the composite variety, provided that they are installed properly.

[Mr Revhead]

as a side note the stock 2jzgte gasket is also layered steel of the same material and design as the TRD gaskets