New brakes!

[2jayzgte]

WAHOO!

Picked up my Mintex 1166 pads from Race Brakes yesterday. Apparently these pads should even be able to stop 1650kg from 220kmph I'm told hahaha. Got nice fluid from them as well.

$367 later though - OUCH!

But hey - would cost more to hit the armco hehe


So - who's racing on the 4th?

Be careful with those Mintex 1166 pads when they get to hot they just melt and stick to your rotors.I have used these in my Supra in the past at Manfeild and when I was using them it is the only time I've been off the front straight and To be honest with you there are several brands that are the length of the street better.Ferrodo,EBC and HAWK HP Plus,I would seriously look at those before that Mintex SHITE.

Seriously when theres Mintex 1166s go they are gone in my experience there was no material left on the backing plate so be prepared there not very good.

[strx7]

Here's a good question for everyone who has used, or know people who have used Mintex 1166 pads.

Did you a) deal direct with the rebonding place yourself or b) go thru a third party?

there are 2 or 3 'horror' stories which seem to be describing a VERY different pad material to what everyone else seems to have. Make ya start to wonder about the authenticity of the 'horror' story pads.

Also have people used them on slotted or std discs?

[2jayzgte]

Here's a good question for everyone who has used, or know people who have used Mintex 1166 pads.

Did you a) deal direct with the rebonding place yourself or b) go thru a third party?

there are 2 or 3 'horror' stories which seem to be describing a VERY different pad material to what everyone else seems to have. Make ya start to wonder about the authenticity of the 'horror' story pads.

Also have people used them on slotted or std discs?

I ran mine on standard 323 mm factory rotors.

I got them through Maclennons in Wgtn who spoke to and organised it with Race brakes in Auckland.They were my last option as Hawk distributor did'nt have a set for my car also tried Padgids but they ended up being to small,to much movement in the callipers.But I would'nt go anywhere near them after the nightmare I had with them 20 laps and they were to the backing plate with the pad material melting chunks onto the rotor.

By all means feel free to use them but if your going hard nah get something else because Mintex 1166 pads are CRAP.

[matt dunn]

wouldn't have anything to do with the way they are bed in by different people?

[Bazda]

They melted for me, the pads cracked really badly.

I just spoke to my old man and this happened to him as well, he said they were awesome when they were awesome, but if they got too hot then they are r**ted.
His ones came in the proper mintex packaging etc, I think he went through about 5 sets, then switched to ferodo DSXXXX which were much better.

[Py7h0n]

Ahh that would be why!!

The Race Brakes custom bonded M1166 based pads are a completely different pad to the boxed Mintex items.

But anyhow they are a sprint compound (Awesome road and occasional track day pad). There are obviously WAY better compounds for pure track use.

[cat007]

Ahh that would be why!!

The Race Brakes custom bonded M1166 based pads are a completely different pad to the boxed Mintex items.

Is that good or bad?

[~SlideWays~]

Hmm I was about to get some mintex 1166 material bonded to some spare used pads for my ae92 GTZ as last time I went to Manfeild and pushed it harder than before (cause nothing went wrong!! ) I got MAJOR brake fade after 5 hard laps.

ie brake pedal to the floor at end of straight 180kph+, had to use way more engine braking than I'm happy with before brakes finally bite and locked up. Kind of my own fault... I knew they were starting to give up...

Im still running the factory singlepot brakes - what would you guys suggest for pads and fluid then?

[cat007]

Hmm I was about to get some mintex 1166 material bonded to some spare used pads for my ae92 GTZ as last time I went to Manfeild and pushed it harder than before (cause nothing went wrong!! ) I got MAJOR brake fade after 5 hard laps.

ie brake pedal to the floor at end of straight 180kph+, had to use way more engine braking than I'm happy with before brakes finally bite and locked up. Kind of my own fault... I knew they were starting to give up...

Im still running the factory singlepot brakes - what would you guys suggest for pads and fluid then?

Air ducting is your friend

[~SlideWays~]

Hmm I was about to get some mintex 1166 material bonded to some spare used pads for my ae92 GTZ as last time I went to Manfeild and pushed it harder than before (cause nothing went wrong!! ) I got MAJOR brake fade after 5 hard laps.

ie brake pedal to the floor at end of straight 180kph+, had to use way more engine braking than I'm happy with before brakes finally bite and locked up. Kind of my own fault... I knew they were starting to give up...

Im still running the factory singlepot brakes - what would you guys suggest for pads and fluid then?

Air ducting is your friend

As is weight reduction, of which I've done none (yet) so car probably weighs more than factory . Around 1100kg at a guess

[pc]

Ferrodo DS3000.
You won't be disappointed with the braking performance, although they do seem to wear out rather quickly. I have used 2mm of material in 150km race and 1200km road driving.
I don't have any brake ducting though and am still running with stone guards on the hubs.

I've never used 1166 but have seen first hand disintegrated pads off a few cars... I would not recommend them for any track work.

[2jayzgte]

Hmm I was about to get some mintex 1166 material bonded to some spare used pads for my ae92 GTZ as last time I went to Manfeild and pushed it harder than before (cause nothing went wrong!! ) I got MAJOR brake fade after 5 hard laps.

ie brake pedal to the floor at end of straight 180kph+, had to use way more engine braking than I'm happy with before brakes finally bite and locked up. Kind of my own fault... I knew they were starting to give up...

Im still running the factory singlepot brakes - what would you guys suggest for pads and fluid then?

Give Hawk HP plus a try they are not as expensive as the Ferrodo's or EBC's for fluid I would go with Motul RBF 600.

I to agree I'm seeing brake temps in access of 750 degrees C so I'm going for ducting I reckon its cheap insurance really.Probably a good thing to look at for you as well.

[BigDon]

I have to totally disagree. I have mintex 1166 and have done so for a while. I get mine direct from race brakes bonded on to backing plates.

They are awesome, consistent braking time and time again in my levin at manfeild where I managed two back to back 1.25s at the HVMC sprints the other weekend and on the road. I get three or four meetings out of a set of front pads and Ive done six or seven on the same rear pads. I have never had a problem with them. (also have plenty of freinds who use them without problem). Yes they will crack when the get low, I think thats due to the riveting process.

For a car like Coryns monster mintex 1177s full race pads are probably the better option over 1166s.

[cat007]

They crack when they get low? Bugger.....well mine are brand spanking new - so fingers crossed

BTW - I got my mates Brenda and Suze to fix my brakes, replaced master cylinder and proportioning valve and bled everything.

Working MINT now! Thanks guys

Will take car for a decent drive tomorrow and try and get some conditioning done

[matt dunn]

Ferrodo DS3000.
You won't be disappointed with the braking performance, although they do seem to wear out rather quickly. I have used 2mm of material in 150km race and 1200km road driving.

You call that fast wear?

I use rear brake pads in a race weekend,
1 x 20min Qualifying session, and 3 6 lap races and the rear pads are worn to the point they wont do another 20 min qualify session.

In saying that though, they are cheap crap pads, but do the job perfect.

And you can have too much ducting for the front.
Race pads have a temp they need to reach to work at there best.
There is also brake rotor paint you can get that you paint on and after a run you can tell by the colours what your brake temps are.
I am hoping to get mine done before the weekend as I have new disc's on.

[postfach]

There is also brake rotor paint you can get that you paint on and after a run you can tell by the colours what your brake temps are.
I am hoping to get mine done before the weekend as I have new disc's on.

Some of the DBA rotors come with that on them, very handy for working out what size ducting to run.

[Py7h0n]

So you got them working ... How do you like them then? Surely you took the time to bed them in last night?

[2jayzgte]

I've used the heat paint also and I'm using the TRD red pad s in my 4-pot Monoblock callipers and the reason I no I'm using them harder is that I have never rinsed a pad from new to about 3/4 before and also seeing heat cracks through the pad and this is after 20 laps.Also this is the big reason why I'm going for ducting in the front.

[BigDon]

They develop cracks but only seemed superficial, i.e. the pad still seemed solid and wasn’t chipped around the cracks (If it was going to I would think it would have on my car as I run slotted rotors). I actually took pictures and emailed them to Steve at race brakes as I was concerned. He said it won’t effect performance and it’s common. This was when the pads where getting quite low i.e. not enough left to take to the track for a meet. I kind of got the impression that the riveting was part of the problem but the riveting is a requirement for road use.

The other point about brake heat is that it helps warm your tires. Particularly important when you are only doing 3-4 lap multi/dual car sprints like a lot of us do on slicks/semis. So if you duct you need to keep that in mind as well as brake operating temps.

[cat007]

As is weight reduction, of which I've done none (yet) so car probably weighs more than factory . Around 1100kg at a guess

1100kg? You lucky bugger! I'll be lucky to be under 1650 with me and gas!