20v Distributor Relocator Kit - your thoughts

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20v Distributor Relocator Kit - your thoughts

Postby Trls250s » Wed Oct 15, 2008 5:51 pm

I wish to develop and sell these as a kit so that people doing 20v rwd conversions dont need to rape there firewalls OR run a aftermarket ECU.

This will be a mid-term project (maybe 4 - 12 weeks development) but if anyone is willing to lend me a 20v head and dizzy i will be willing to supply the kitset to you for the cost of materials alone.

Or sell me a head with cams, cam gears, and dizzy for around $50 - $100 in rubbish condition (screwed valves, butchered head etc)

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I like this solution far better to fabricating ur firewall, or running an aftermarket, but i have never seen these available as kits to the public

I am currently developing something so a mate of mine can run a 3sgte rwd with factory ECU so i thought i might do this for 20v since they are becoming so affordable and people like rwd's (i know i do)

I have seen these kitsets sold in the US for $750USD and im sure i can make them for cheaper. (and bonus of local support never hurt no one)
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Postby Mr Revhead » Wed Oct 15, 2008 6:06 pm

someone on here was looking at doing the same thing a while back....
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Postby Trls250s » Wed Oct 15, 2008 7:26 pm

Hopefully i will make a better effort haha.

Thing is i have to make one for a 3s, so once i do that ill have an idea of what needs doing and how to do it making it easier to make the 20v one.
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Postby stalker » Wed Oct 15, 2008 9:11 pm

Here ya go: http://store.autosportsupplies.com/merc ... Quantity=1

Could always just copy that idea.....cause id love one myself but bugger if im paying about $900 USD (incl shipping) for it
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Postby Eddy1612 » Wed Oct 15, 2008 9:40 pm

do it do it do it. thats one kickass idea!

i will def look into buying one off you in future!
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Postby stalker » Wed Oct 15, 2008 9:41 pm

EDIT: nevermind...Rowan already beat me to that website on ya other post
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Postby frost » Wed Oct 15, 2008 10:42 pm

not sure if rev was talking about me or the silver ke70 dude,
but i made one of these kits about a yeah or two back aswell, it ran ok,
the signal is backwards but not a big problem, mounting it was easy, and cutting the dizzy stalk was not bad,
i ran that sucker for about a month or two, in the end i scraped it and went DLI, cos it was a cleaner look,

note' on that kit the key way for the dizzy to sit in(the small round piece next to the bolt) does not have a locating dwell, you should put one in and you should be able to use the second hole on the exhaust cam as the locating hole, that way it wont spin round and mess up timing,

also for the price of that kit listed above, its cheaper to go DLI/cdi ignition and would look better,

go for it, its easy to do and better then chopchop of firewall 8O
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Postby Trls250s » Thu Oct 16, 2008 7:08 am

What do you mean the signal runs backwards? As in the dizzy pointer spins clockwise as opposed to anticlockwise?

I dont see this as a problem at all. Wont be hard to include installation instructions with the unit with the new firing order on it.
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Postby frost » Thu Oct 16, 2008 3:28 pm

when you rip apart the blacktop dizzy you'll see there is a ramp and step configuration, normal operation has the magnetic signal going up the ramp then falling off the step to start over again, in this kit it will be backwards,
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Postby Trls250s » Thu Oct 16, 2008 4:54 pm

How? As the guts of the dizzy will remain in the back of the head plated off, and the plastic cap and pointer will be mounted to the front of the engine.

Plated off and acting as a CAS sensor a silvertop/blacktop dizzy can easily clear a AE85/86/70 firewall. Just locating the firing part to the front of the motor i dont see how this is that big of a headach.

Did you locate your entire distributor to the front of the head?
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Postby AE82 FXGT » Thu Oct 16, 2008 5:57 pm

I think what he is getting at, is that because it is no longer driven off a gear it spins the other way.


Or am I way off?
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Postby Mr Revhead » Thu Oct 16, 2008 6:03 pm

if you put the whole dizzy on the front as some do you get the issues frost is talking about

if you do it as Trls250s suggesting you dont
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Postby Burning Angel » Thu Oct 16, 2008 6:06 pm

i think all the other relocation kit move the CAS to the front aswell.

what hes suggesting is to leave the CAS portion where it is and move the actual DISTRIBUTOR(ie cap and rotor) to the front of the engine.

only 16v dizzys run off a gear and because of their location they dont need moving anyway
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Postby AE82 FXGT » Thu Oct 16, 2008 8:36 pm

Burning Angel wrote:
only 16v dizzys run off a gear and because of their location they dont need moving anyway


Oh true, My bad I was thinking 16v
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Postby frost » Thu Oct 16, 2008 8:53 pm

oh i see, i didn't notice it still retained the CAS part at the back,
here are some mockup pics of when i ran the whole dizzy at the front, with shortened stork
cost of parts total=$60 mainly the alloy and time on the lathe, it would be cheaper and easer to make the smaller key in the other link,
prob still $60 of alloy going by todays prices :cry:
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Postby Trls250s » Thu Oct 16, 2008 9:46 pm

Thats pretty cool.

I saw my mate running his 20v in his AE86 drift car with the old dizzy plated off as a CAS and running coilpacks. The new CAS-dizzy easily clears the firewall. Then after seeing another kit online, and the photo above it mate more sence to just locate the mechanical stuff to the front of the engine.

Easier/cheaper solution for my mate with his 3S, and i could see this being a bullet-proof one for people wanting to 20v there RWD's without the headach of learning to wire up Coilpacks.
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Postby soopachargen » Fri Oct 17, 2008 7:44 pm

the dudes from kaizen garage in Oz make some sort of DLI conversion that runs on the standard computer, that would be a pretty choice setup, has anyone heard anyhting about that?
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