3S-GTE (ST185) not wanting to boost/rev - Sorted Thanks!

[KE25-KP30]

Hey guys, picked up a GT4 the other day as not going. Played with some messed up wiring and vacuum lines, jumped it and away it roared(ish).
Here's the thing: Will start and run fine, when you rev it, it will hold out for a little bit, and "get over" the "lump" it feels it needs to, then rev ok above a certain revs. (If that makes ANY sense) - This may be more complicated, but revs are like 1-2-2-2-2-2-3-3-4-5-6 (x100) with throttle wide open.

I drained the fuel (as it had been sitting for 2 years) and put new in, and took it for a spin (or not!) It's fine(ish) off boost with no load, as soon as any load at all is put on it, or the accel is pressed, it goes into "I don't want to run" mode for me!

I think I had another car that did this but I can't remember for the life of my what it was. AFM wiring is a bit messy which may be it, but ANY thoughts or ideas at all would be stunning. We've luckily got a SW20 turbo here that I can switch parts from to try but I don't know where to start!

Anyway, sorry for the long winded post, hopefully someone'll have an idea.

Thanks!

EDIT: Just took it for another spin as it seemed better idling, but not better driving. It felt like what a siezed turbo might feel like, so pulled the inlet off the turbo and it spins beautifully. Next up, it has no numbers on the turbo (i.e CT26) only TOYOTA, so compared it with another old CT26 I have here and the compressor wheel is a lot larger, and had 6 double fins as opposed to 5 double fins on the CT26. Sorry it's sorta off topic but at least I know the turbo's spinning! Any ideas on the turbo? I can get some photo's at some point if needs be. Thanks again!

[Akane]

Try plugs, like swap them over to newer ones.
Try.... hmm, timing, just mark where your timing is and then play with advancing and retarding by a good 5 degrees.

Check T-VIS plumbing

Check your sanity for buying a 3S-GTE.

[touge rolla]

Try leads, had similar problem on a friends ST185, changed the leaders to new TGP and then it went perfect.

[rollaholic]

i'd start with fault codes, and remembering your basics (spark, fuel, compression, timing)

tidy up obvious defects (AFM wiring is highly suspect - why has it been tampered with)

replacing parts at random not a good plan, best bet is to be methodical and believe nothing you may have been told about the car until you have confirmed for yourself!

[drift-monkey]

vaccuum leaks caause this very bad, can rev it up slowly but when under load spits a spatters and kinda cuts out

[KE25-KP30]

Great, heaps to check!

Akane, just pulled a plug out and they look as though they're not all that old, Platinums, but the gap is large looking and they are very black. Any ideas (and I'll look after I post this) on what the plug gap is supposed to be? EDIT: Checked gaps and all look to be about the correct 0.8
Will do a thorough vacuum hose check up re. T-VIS. Finally, will wait til it's going and then do a sanity check to see whether I went wrong somewhere buying it

touge rolla, it's got Repco 8mm leads on it, don't know what quality they are from new but will try switching with some other stock leads and see if there's any difference (even worse then I know that leads have something to do with it!)

rollaholic, I remembered fault codes last night after I posted this and will go and have a look now. As far as AFM wiring, it looks to have been extended so it could be moved for a pod K&N. EDIT: Couldn't check codes with no dash lights, so found a fuse and sorted that. Came back with 42, 43, 51 and 52. Looking at the first three, Speed signal, start signal and switch signal, I don't think they'll effect the main problem at hand, but 52, knock sensor could be a goer (or stopper in this case!) EDIT 2: Reset the ECU, took it for a drive, felt nice until the second it came on boost, where it dropped all power and check engine light came on. Diag'd it and Knock Sensor had popped up again. My theories are such: 1: Knock Sensor is shot. 2: Timing has been over advanced - as a result, any hint of boost and the knock sensor picks up a knock and retards everything back to the stone age. I do have another sensor here that I might put in and see where goes if there are no other suggestions!

And finally, drift-monkey, interesting there, the vacuum lines are a mess. I had written this off as I believed if there was vacuum leaks it wouldn't idle, but will do a more thorough check to see what I can find! EDIT: Looked right around the engine, BOV was sorta siezed but had come free-ish, but obviously externally venting was making it almost die after a rev then idle, so for time being removed the BOV and blocked the hole. Took it for another drive and improved but still bad.

Thanks a tonne for the replies and ideas, I'm sure i'll be back with more questions!

Ah yes, one more, no dash lights, tail lights, speedo, temp or (I think) boost guage. I'm yet to check fuses, but is there usually a certain something that will cause this? EDIT: Have sorted this, but still >> Do these have electronic or mechanical speedo?

Ta

Sorry this post has turned into a diary/essay!

[KE25-KP30]

Hey guys, thanks for all your suggestions - I think I've worked through them all now! But! It's running better but still no-where near how it should.

I replaced the knock-sensor and to my delight I am now not getting a diag. on the knock sensor. I blocked the BOV hole with a juice bottle lid and when I took it for a spin today it blew it out so I know i've got boost.

Checked the timing last night and on the diag mode it was running about 10 deg adv, and (I don't know if this is supposed to happen) when I blip the throttle, it retards heavily briefly before it jumps back into advance. Is this a problem?

Just writing this down has made me think, and now I'm wondering fuel... Worth looking at fuel filter do you think? Also T-VIS looks to have had the hose pulled on it so will sort that back out too as that can't be doing much good!

So essentially after all that, my problem is it's still bogging down with any load at all. Lay off the load and it's fine (enough!)

Thanks again for all the help and suggestions!

Kent

[escortman]

sounds similar to what happened to my mates ute, he put a intake walbro in and sealed it with silicon which the fuel fumes ate and it clogged the filter, only caught it when reved it and saw the fuel press drop to almost 0

[Adamal]

Kinda sounds like it could be going super rich when you put your foot down. Lots of black smoke when it does it?

[KE25-KP30]

Very interesting about the fuel pump, it does sound like it has an aftermarket pump ticking away so perhaps I'll get another filter (It proably needs one anyway!)

As far as black smoke, off hand, no I don't think so but when next I drive it I'll have a look.

Thanks again!

[KE25-KP30]

Well, pleased to say I believe it's essentially sorted thanks to all the suggestions! Took it for a final run and it seems to go well enough, although haven't got 3rd to really test it in (gearbox is the next thing to sort in it!)

What I did, incase anyone else comes across the problem:
-Visually checked plugs, leads and cap
-Checked many times for vacuum leaks
-Drained fuel and replaced fuel filter
-Hooked T-VIS back up
-Replaced knock-sensor
-Checked timing
-And remember diagnostics is your friend!

There were probably others but it all mingles into one!

Anyway, thanks again everyone