ABS brakes Part II

[Adydas]

Anyone know how you go about disabling the ABS entierly from a car? Ive come to the conclusion my other brakes were fine ( still small by comparison ) but the issue is relative to the abs operation.

Its just dawned on me no factory ecu = no abs computer does it? the factory ecu remains in place but all the speed sensors and such i would assume plug into the aftermarket jobby and not the factory one to give the required feedback to ABS control.

What can i do to by pass / Remove the abs from working at all? Or get it fixed and operational. Both of my axels were changed on the car
and now ive learnt the old ones could have had grooves in them to spin the speed sensors im not sure if the new axles do ( new ones came from a non abs car if i recall rightly ).

[deaf_rattle]

mikes rc still had the abs working, but that might be the difference with running a power fc.

The brakes were nuts!

[Adydas]

Yeah power fc i imagine would do ok, Stupid Motec!!

[fivebob]

Yeah power fc i imagine would do ok, Stupid Motec!!

Wash your mouth out

The ABS does not rely on the ECU to operate. The wheel speed hub sensors go directly to the ABS ECU.

While the SW20 ECU has a connection to the ABS system, the ST185 does not appear to have one. Even in the case of the SW20 an aftermarket ECU does not affect the operation of the ABS.

[Adydas]

im totally clueless what to do to fix it.. i assume that the new hubs not feeding the sensor could be the issue.. I just want brakes that are mint.

If i manually feed the brakes fluid as apposed to via the abs unit then im fine? so i just need to find what 4 lines go from abs unit to the indivudal brakes and then get a feed from the master brake cylinder into a block to feed them. i know thats not right but i dont know where to start.

I can find a hundred pages on google on how to fit a bov but nothing on disconecting abs from a st185...

[mr30%jr]

you dont need to.

abs never worked on my brothers 183 when we got it and it was fine.

we just replaced the hub sensor. and it was all fine.

what issue are you having?

[Mr Revhead]

yeah, is the issue no ABS? or no brakes at all?

inactive ABS due to missing ABS ring (that sounds like what you are saying) will not prevent the brakes working, it will just disable the ABS function.

if you have replaced the c/v or axle with one that doesnt have the ABS ring, that will be why you have no ABS

[Boosted_162]

yeah, is the issue no ABS? or no brakes at all?

inactive ABS due to missing ABS ring (that sounds like what you are saying) will not prevent the brakes working, it will just disable the ABS function.

if you have replaced the c/v or axle with one that doesnt have the ABS ring, that will be why you have no ABS

Brake pedal goes really hard like you have no brakes. When you push the pedal really hard the front right wheel will lock up. After a minute or so the ABS light will come on and it wont happen again.

[Adydas]

You can drive along merry as for ages, and then without reason or warning when you go to use the brakes the peddle is 100% pushing back on you ( just like when ABS operates and its doing its stop you locking up job).


You might drive along for a few seconds to near a min before it comes right and you can retain what was " normal no abs " braking.

While the cars in this " abs active " state it wont shudder or run abs like normal it simply has the feeling of a locked up piston in the front right
caliper, so if you do push hard against this brake thats pushing back on you.. the car will slow but it also swerves hard to the right ( Into traffic.. Good as!! )..

If you REALLY step on the peddle in this state the front right wheel only will lock up.

Once this phase has passed the car returns as i said back to normal, Normally this is accominied by the ABS light on the dash playing its apperance.

If my understanding of the ABS system is correct its as if the disk that should move around to supply all 4 pipes fluid / pressure isnt spinning and might be locked on front right?

My guess is if i can disable it 100% i wont have any issues but right now any second without warning could be a brake lock moment.. VERY bad!

i suspected incorrectly my caliper was botched and seizing.. But with the new / other calipers doing the exzact same thing ive realised my brakes were fine.. But my abs is interfering..

[fivebob]

You can drive along merry as for ages, and then without reason or warning when you go to use the brakes the peddle is 100% pushing back on you ( just like when ABS operates and its doing its stop you locking up job).

Check the one way valve for the brake booster is working properly. If it fails the booster will work against the brake pedal if it sees boost rather than vacuum. The other issue can that can arise is with more radical cams you may not get enouugh vacuum to operate the booster, in which case you may have to look at getting a vacuum pump to run the booster.

If the ABS really is the problem simply disconnect the relays then it won't play any part in the equation at all.

[Adydas]

I do have bigger cams, So that may play a part.. I didnt think disconecting it electrionically was going to work but i did have hopes it might.

Crumbs..

[mr30%jr]

does it still do the annoying thing with the abs fuse out ?

the BGB does go over fault codes for the abs computer etc im pretty sure.

one of the wheel sensors prolly doesnt work and i would have bets it the front left.

prolly seeing the braking condition and thinks the front left wheel is locked and tries to apply the braking to the other wheel

just a theory

[matt dunn]

The other thing that is definatly worth checking,

all the in's and out on the ABS unit are labelled,

and make sure that each one goes to the correct wheel,
as pipes crossed over will give the same effect,

as it is trying to reduce pressure on the LF and increaes the RF,
but if the pies are wrong, it will lock up and/or pull to one side.

and even though they look like they cannot be connected wrong,
they can as I have seen it done.