3S-GTE Oil

[Dell'Orto]

i heard thru somone who had a 2jzgte used an oil filter from repco it collapsed ran a bearing and he sued them for a rebuild and won. moral is spend 10 dollars more on TGP ones.

rofl, sued them? Yeah right
BTW GUD (supplier of Ryco/Repco filters) are very happy to replace/repair a motor if its proven their filter caused the fault. I've seen it first hand, not through someone

[BZG Wagon]

I'll try a 5w30 castrol edge tomorrow, see how it goes regardless...

Let me know how the first few days go... I'll be doing my change on Saturday or Sunday. .

Personally I don't think changing oil type will make a hell of a lot of difference to the life of the car so long as its changed regularly. I noticed (in my 4age) different oils help the car rev easier, engine quieter etc, and I suspect a better oil filter will help the oil maintain its colour a bit longer.

A mate with the VR4 noisy lifter problem swears Mobil 1 5w50 shuts it up for a good 3000kms, vs almost no change when he uses magnatec.

[Mr Revhead]

main thing to watch for on GUDs is leaking seals and around where the base plate attaches to the body
when i first started at toyota my job was oil changes. lost count of how many GUD filters we had to send back as they were leaking
other big issue with them is faulty drain valve, though i think they fixed that when the ditched the 191a

[kim0663]

I couldn't be stuffed changing the oil today.... damn.

Next week lol

[BZG Wagon]

main thing to watch for on GUDs is leaking seals and around where the base plate attaches to the body
when i first started at toyota my job was oil changes. lost count of how many GUD filters we had to send back as they were leaking
other big issue with them is faulty drain valve, though i think they fixed that when the ditched the 191a

Are GUD the filters Toyota brand / sell?

What do you use in your cars Mr Revhead?

[Twolitre]

Are GUD the filters Toyota brand / sell?

What do you use in your cars Mr Revhead?

BTW GUD (supplier of Ryco/Repco filters) are very happy to replace/repair a motor if its proven their filter caused the fault. I've seen it first hand, not through someone

[BZG Wagon]

Are GUD the filters Toyota brand / sell?

What do you use in your cars Mr Revhead?

BTW GUD (supplier of Ryco/Repco filters) are very happy to replace/repair a motor if its proven their filter caused the fault. I've seen it first hand, not through someone

[Mr Revhead]

GUD also supplied toyota with filters under the "tradeline" name

i usually use genuine, though at the moment i have a fram one on the wagon. used to use TRD when i could get them cheap.
i think GUD have fixed most of there issues, but if i had to use one i wouldnt leave it on as long as a genuine one

[touge rolla]

I'm currently using Castrol GTX Modern Engine (used to be called Protec) and crappy Repco filters in my SW20.
I have used Magnatec and it was noticeably slower and burned over a litre in between changing it (5000kms). On GTX it is using less than half a litre between changes.
Have been considering trying Valvoline VR1 for a while, changing the oil this week so perhaps I'll give it a go.

Heylin where can I get this additive?

[thegreatestben]

Mitsubishi and road and track sell mbl8 here in the hutt.
Not sure if it applys to other mitsi dealers

[Heylin]

I'm currently using Castrol GTX Modern Engine (used to be called Protec) and crappy Repco filters in my SW20.
I have used Magnatec and it was noticeably slower and burned over a litre in between changing it (5000kms). On GTX it is using less than half a litre between changes.
Have been considering trying Valvoline VR1 for a while, changing the oil this week so perhaps I'll give it a go.

Heylin where can I get this additive?

I get mine from a guy called John in Hamilton, he is a Fulltime ProMa Distributor 07 856 4314

Last time I checked it was $36 for 250ml which will do 3 oil changes. So its pretty good value. I used to sell the stuff as well, and also demonstrated it using friction brake test machine, the friction reducing ability is amazing, once added to oil you cannot stop the friction brake test machine from turning, even with a 100kg guy nearly breaking the torque arm.

Apprently 1 cold start is equivalent to 200km of normal driving in wear terms, so having this residual lubricant on the cylinder wall eliminates this wear. If you put that into annual wear for a daily driver you effectively add 100,000 kms of wear per year to your engine based on 2 cold starts 5 days a week.

[Mr Revhead]

if it sounds too good too be true...

i always wonder why oil companies dont add those things themselves
or sell them themselves

[thegreatestben]

if it sounds too good too be true...

i always wonder why oil companies dont add those things themselves
or sell them themselves

Because they already make a $&#$% of money and adding that stuff wouldn't benefit themselves?

[Heylin]

Because they already make a $&#$% of money and adding that stuff wouldn't benefit themselves?

Well not exactly, oil companies do add some additives to the oil and you should still replace your oil every 10,000 kms anyway so they arent missing out on sales, but it would cost them more to add a superior additive.

The majority of motorists wouldnt really care if it had a superior additive or not, most people sell their cars or ditch them before the kms get to high and its accepted or believed by many that at 200,000kms (or less sometimes) youre in for a rebuild.

Car enthusiasts like ourselves who keep our cars and rack up high kms need superior additives to prolong our engine and turbo life.

There is no snake oil here with MBL8 (unlike other additives), people can choose to not believe the long list of benefits but the only thing thats impossible to deny is just how slippery this additive makes your oil.

Slippery is good, slippery under high heat and high pressure is even better, MBL8 delivers slippery action in spades, friction is bad for an engine and MBL8 virtually eliminates it.

For a turbo this is particually good, as the residual lubricating properties of MBL8 would protect bearings against friction after the car is turned off and no oil is flowing through the turbos bearing housing.

The other property which people may or may not choose to believe is the fact it contains engineered lead and copper particles (i dont recalll the micron size) but it wont block anything up and will pass through the filter.

The idea behind this is being soft and mallable metals, under pressure and friction in the engine they can plate \ fill in microscopic pits, hairline cracks and other things inside the motor, making the surface smoother and therfore reducing friction further.

Ive seen engines pulled apart and put under a microscope before and after using MBL8 and the surfaces are notably smoother.

[BZG Wagon]

...just another question.

In NZ, since it doesn't get all that cold (at least in Auckland) I assume 0w40 would have the same or similar viscosity at normal operating temp as 10w40?

I.e. Mobil 1 0w40 is also a good option... (not too thin like 10w30, not to thick like 5w50).

[Warren]

I use Valvoline Syngaurd (10w40 I think it is) with a Fram oil filter.
Change both at every 5000kms. No issues what so ever

[Santa'sBoostinSleigh]

ive been using Penzoil 10w 40 (i think) for a while in the caldina now and i dont seem to have to top it up at all between changes (~9,000ish kms)
always use TGP filters on both the caldina and the racecar (same filter - bonus!)
caldina's done ~176,000kms now and still sweet as

[Wolf_Tm250]

I'll try a 5w30 castrol edge tomorrow, see how it goes regardless...

Was so bored today that i was reading the mr2 BGB....

Learnt something new and informative. The recommended oil change interval is 8000kms for normal driving, and 16000kms for the filter. (i always thought it'd be more like 15000kms and that me changing at 5000kms was being anal)

Recommended oils (according to BGB) are

10w30
10w40
5w30



does it mean i need to choose the oils according to my climate?.... that puts me in the 10w40 which i don't want

Still have to understand why, in every part of the world, someone is always thinking to make better than Toyota in choosing the correct oil viscosity for agiven oil tolerance in a engine.

If you are not going to start up your engine at less than -18 deg.C, why would you put in a too thin oil?

Do you think your engine's engineers didn't work well testing OPTIMAL viscosity ?

A too thin oil will cause bearings damage.
A too thick oil will cause bearing damage.

10w30 or 10w40 IS the oil to use.
Much better if it's 100% sinthetic.
Much better if it has high HTHS value.
Much better if it is Ester based over PAO.

For example Motul 300V 10w40 is a GREAT oil for 3SGTE.

Regards.

[BZG Wagon]

Good points Wolf_Tm250.

I ended up with Valvoline durablend 10w40 semi synthetic. Slightly dearer than magnatec, but semi-synthetic.

I also bought a Toyota Oil Filter which feels a bit heavier and stronger than the Repco filters I've used.

Interesting chat to the Toyota parts guy; his opinion was that a TRD oil filter or air filter would only be a fraction better than a Genuine Toyota, and not worth the extra money.

I was also told that the service dept recommends / puts 15w40 in all GTT's that come in for servicing - i.e. the same stuff that goes in almost every other car they service. I'm surprised they don't try and upsell their customers into 'better' oil, and they recommend the same oil they put in my mothers 1.5l corolla.

[Mr Revhead]

TRD oil filter filters better than a stock filter, thats why i used them on my levin that would otherwise have rather dirty oil within 2-3000k
but their main advantage is increased internal strength for higher pressure oil systems. so yeah in 99% of cases they are not worth the extra money.