1998 toyota caldina gtt 3sgte maximum boost b4 2 lean

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1998 toyota caldina gtt 3sgte maximum boost b4 2 lean

Postby toycustoms » Fri Jan 16, 2009 12:13 pm

hey just wondering if anybody knows the max psi you can run on a stock standard 3sgte out of a gtt caldina 98?

does upping the boost to 14 psi lean the engine or will the computer adjust accordingly? or will it lean the engine out? and by how much?
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Postby Twolitre » Fri Jan 16, 2009 12:20 pm

Don't they run 13psi stock anyway?
Caldina's are prone to detonation because of the 9.0:1 compression ratio so it is ill advised to increase the boost. If it were me I'd concentrate on doing a propper downpipe and exhaust although that in itself will probably increase boost but I don't know by how much.
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Postby kim0663 » Fri Jan 16, 2009 12:26 pm

they seem to run 7psi? im thinking 14psi a good choice too.... should have more than enough fuel for like.... 18+ , just a bit scary/dodgy lol
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Postby Malcolm » Fri Jan 16, 2009 12:37 pm

search "Caldina piston" on this board. I'm sure you'll find out how much boost you CAN'T run without destroying your engine
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Postby phraza » Fri Jan 16, 2009 1:09 pm

mines almost standard (only pod) and i just put some gauges in and mines running 13psi
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Postby flygt4 » Fri Jan 16, 2009 4:06 pm

standard boost is 10-11psi, but i think they still run a form of factory boost control that limits boost when its too hot or the engine is cold etc. the earlier model 3sgte's did anyway, they would limit boost to around 7psi.

an exhaust/downpipe will generally bring the boost up to ~13-14psi. you wouldnt want to exceed this at all on the standard computer, been covered about 100000x on here, quick search will give you an idea. these are far from a exhaust+filter+crank the boost car.

there are always slight differences in boost pressure between cars due to the different ages of the wastegate actuators/diaphragms and the quality of the gauge reading the pressure. santas_boosting_sleigh on here had 18psi for a short time when his wastegate actuator started sticking :lol:
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Postby Dell'Orto » Fri Jan 16, 2009 7:21 pm

flygt4 wrote:there are always slight differences in boost pressure between cars due to the different ages of the wastegate actuators/diaphragms and the quality of the gauge reading the pressure. santas_boosting_sleigh on here had 18psi for a short time when his wastegate actuator started sticking :lol:


I saw it hit 20 8O Diaphragm was poked.
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Postby Santa'sBoostinSleigh » Fri Jan 16, 2009 7:49 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:
flygt4 wrote:there are always slight differences in boost pressure between cars due to the different ages of the wastegate actuators/diaphragms and the quality of the gauge reading the pressure. santas_boosting_sleigh on here had 18psi for a short time when his wastegate actuator started sticking :lol:


I saw it hit 20 8O Diaphragm was poked.

yep it maxed out the gauge, new wastegate actuator diaphram and problem solved
back to ~13-14PSI peak, then taper back to ~10-11PSI depending on revs/load
Thats with a 2.5" exhaust and K&N Panel Filter, and standard boost settings
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Postby BZG Wagon » Fri Jan 16, 2009 11:31 pm

When I had my GTT hooked up to a scan tool in Christchurch it peaked around 185kpa-a (12psi) on an open road evening drive. The car has no mods what so ever.

Between 3000 - 4000 RPM and it was consistently around 160kpa-a & 170kpa-a (8-10psi); while trying to diagnose a fault within this rev range.

A GT-4 Celica (ST205) I know ran 16psi for six months with no issues - engine had done 160km (personally not something I would try).
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Postby Boosted_162 » Fri Jan 16, 2009 11:58 pm

BZG Wagon wrote:When I had my GTT hooked up to a scan tool in Christchurch it peaked around 185kpa-a (12psi) on an open road evening drive. The car has no mods what so ever.

Between 3000 - 4000 RPM and it was consistently around 160kpa-a & 170kpa-a (8-10psi); while trying to diagnose a fault within this rev range.

A GT-4 Celica (ST205) I know ran 16psi for six months with no issues - engine had done 160km (personally not something I would try).


The difference is the compression ratio. An ST205 is 8.5:1 while a GTT is 9.0:1 IIRC. The higher compression and higher boost makes things go bang :lol:
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Postby BZG Wagon » Sat Jan 17, 2009 9:45 am

Boosted_162 wrote:
BZG Wagon wrote:When I had my GTT hooked up to a scan tool in Christchurch it peaked around 185kpa-a (12psi) on an open road evening drive. The car has no mods what so ever.

Between 3000 - 4000 RPM and it was consistently around 160kpa-a & 170kpa-a (8-10psi); while trying to diagnose a fault within this rev range.

A GT-4 Celica (ST205) I know ran 16psi for six months with no issues - engine had done 160km (personally not something I would try).


The difference is the compression ratio. An ST205 is 8.5:1 while a GTT is 9.0:1 IIRC. The higher compression and higher boost makes things go bang :lol:


Really? That is very interesting I did not realise.

Is there much physical difference betweent the 3s-gte on an ST215 vs. ST205? I am aware the 'bolt on bits' are different; i.e. turbo, exhaust & the GT4 i/c is water cooled.

...glad I didn't take up the offer of a free boost controler from the GT4... :?
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Postby sergei » Sat Jan 17, 2009 10:14 am

ST215 is a very different engine compare to ST205, every thing is different, head, block, sump etc, the only thing they might share is the crank (but I also have doubts about it).
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Postby BZG Wagon » Sat Jan 17, 2009 10:59 am

sergei wrote:ST215 is a very different engine compare to ST205, every thing is different, head, block, sump etc, the only thing they might share is the crank (but I also have doubts about it).


I was not aware. I figured they used the same geneartion motor since the GT4 ran from 94-99 and the GTT 97-2001, rather than manafacture two completely different motors.
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Postby flygt4 » Sat Jan 17, 2009 2:59 pm

BZG Wagon wrote:
sergei wrote:ST215 is a very different engine compare to ST205, every thing is different, head, block, sump etc, the only thing they might share is the crank (but I also have doubts about it).


I was not aware. I figured they used the same geneartion motor since the GT4 ran from 94-99 and the GTT 97-2001, rather than manafacture two completely different motors.


no they are lightyears apart but the GTT did inherit most of the driveline from the ST205. The caldina ECU doesnt seem to adjust as well to large changes in airflow over factory settings as the ST205 either.
Also if you blow an exhaust wheel on a GTT by overboosting it, the turbo and manifold are an integrated unit, so its becomes a very costly exercise to replace ,and its not straightforward to upgrade. Due to the manifold warping issue the integrated turbo-manifold units are very hard to get hold of and arent cheap.
The ST205 with the normal turbo manifold setup isnt so bad if you pop a turbo as you can source a replacement relatively easily.
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thanx for replys and more q's

Postby toycustoms » Tue Jan 20, 2009 3:26 pm

hey shaun here again

hey thanx everyone who replayed to my questions, was very appreciated.

wheel have done some mods to it, have a 3 inch turbo down pipe and 3 inch mangle bent exhaust with high flow resonators and straight though boor,
we also added a 3 core 300 x 450 front mount intercooler.
a greedy rs bov and 3 inch pick up pipe moved down to the bumper to ensure cool dense air is used.

its running a standard boost of 10-11 psi and i am thinking of adding a turbo smart bleed tap to increase the boost to 13-14, is this a respectable and safe boost to run with the small mods we have done?
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Postby toycustoms » Tue Jan 20, 2009 3:29 pm

by the way its not in the gtt caldina anymore, we will be at the mery mery drags on on the 25th, so if anyone is there come see us have a chat, just look out for a white 1988 toyota corona (sedan)
last run did a 14.02 on standard boost and shit tyres

hoping to crack the 13 with more boost and a higher octane fuel
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Postby GTTpower » Tue Jan 20, 2009 4:01 pm

toycustoms wrote:by the way its not in the gtt caldina anymore, we will be at the mery mery drags on on the 25th, so if anyone is there come see us have a chat, just look out for a white 1988 toyota corona (sedan)
last run did a 14.02 on standard boost and sh*t tyres

hoping to crack the 13 with more boost and a higher octane fuel


Yeh I saw your car at dragmasters, you grudge raced my mate Ryan in his EP71. 13s shouldnt be too far away with better tires.
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Postby sergei » Tue Jan 20, 2009 4:29 pm

Don't use bleed taps (turbosmart crap), best way to control boost is to use electronic boost controller (and not the one that is a really switch bleed, you know, the one comes with switch and two taps).
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Postby toycustoms » Tue Jan 20, 2009 4:34 pm

o yea, haven't bothered to put a electronic boost controller in yet was looking for the cheaper option of a tap because of thinking about upgrading to forged internals and vvt i head and the rest, do you think that a turbo smart bleed tap will give me boost spikes or boost creep or will it do the trick for now?
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Postby jakesae101 » Tue Jan 20, 2009 4:37 pm

aparently those turbosmart boost taps are bad for boost creep
I appologise for my bad grammar

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