fierwall rust removail?

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fierwall rust removail?

Postby 79rolla » Fri Jan 30, 2009 10:36 am

my corola has a little bit of rust just starting along the lip on the fierwall. how do i stop the rust from spreading atleast? dont have a welder so cant realy cut and replace..

pics of what im talking about
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there has been an attempt made at removing it in the past as you can see but has faild..
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Postby 2LTR Rona » Fri Jan 30, 2009 10:52 am

Personally I have used a product called Blackguard, very simple and easy to use & from what I have experianced provides good results.

Website is http://www.tergo.co.nz/Tech%20Data/HTML/blackguard.htm

Have used it on the KE to prevent rust spreading, this is what it looks like when brushed on

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Postby soven » Fri Jan 30, 2009 10:55 am

I will treat the visible rusted areas with por15 and also use fishoil to coat the seams from behind.
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Postby 79rolla » Fri Jan 30, 2009 10:58 am

is that stuff like rust kill?? changes color where the rust is? or somthing completely diferent?
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Postby bbq1988 » Fri Jan 30, 2009 11:00 am

Get it back in the shed ryan, that will help prevent it becoming part of the driveway :)
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Postby rollaholic » Fri Jan 30, 2009 11:01 am

mate that rust is alot worse than it looks, you need to strip the shit back and fix it properly

or it will come back to kill your car
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Postby 2LTR Rona » Fri Jan 30, 2009 11:03 am

79rolla wrote:is that stuff like rust kill?? changes color where the rust is? or somthing completely diferent?


Assume you are meaning the Blackguard, then yes, there is a chemical reaction between the rust & the product which causes the colour change.

Hence why in the instructions for application it states.....

It is important to ensure that rust remains on the surface as it is necessary for the chemical action to proceed.


it's fine to remove the large flakey bits of rust etc, but to work properly there should be some element of the rust left there to react with i.e. it is not advised to strip back to bare metal and apply
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Postby 79rolla » Fri Jan 30, 2009 11:30 am

it would be alright to strip back the paint around it wont it? because there is still rust in the seam?
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Postby 2LTR Rona » Fri Jan 30, 2009 11:34 am

I would strip it back lightly & see what you are faced with, on the face of those pics it doesnt look "too" bad, but you dont know what lays beneath that & thats the million dollar question at the moment
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Postby 79rolla » Fri Jan 30, 2009 12:56 pm

just hd a scratch with a screw driver and wier brush.. its not too srioys altho i revailed a bunch more spots and sum big patches in the corners and some patches along where te rubber at the back is once i got it off,, i might just go buy some rust kill and coat the whole strip from the lip to just b4 it changes to bodywork paint.. if you get what i mean. can get pics if it will help..
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Postby Mr Revhead » Fri Jan 30, 2009 1:04 pm

rust kill only works on surface rust
if theres rust under it, or around it you dont cover it will keep eating.

i would get int there and remove as much rust etc as you car
back to bare metal.
POR15 is a rust inhibitor/converter (read up about it, coupla different types) and can be applied to surface rust or baremetal as a primer.
i pretty much painted the whole front of my AW11 in it! theres prob a half AW11 sitting somewhere now :lol:
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Postby 79rolla » Fri Jan 30, 2009 1:24 pm

how do i strip off the rust in the seam without breaking all of the spot welds tho?? that is my biggest priblem..
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Postby Adoom » Fri Jan 30, 2009 1:47 pm

soven wrote:I will treat the visible rusted areas with por15 and also use fishoil to coat the seams from behind.

I can vouch for that method. POR15 is excellent stuff. Just follow the instructions.
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Postby Adoom » Fri Jan 30, 2009 1:56 pm

Mr Revhead wrote:....POR15 is a rust inhibitor/converter.....

Not trying to be a dick or anything. Actually its not a converter. It works by sealing off the existing rust/metal from water and air. Once you remove water and air from the equation you stop the chemical reaction where steel tries to turn back into iron ore and carbon stuff. It has to be DRY DRY when you paint it though.
It's still awesome.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Fri Jan 30, 2009 3:06 pm

are you sure? im going to check my stuff on it, i also recall thay a little moisture is ok, as it uses the moisture to cure
maybe mi missuing the term "converter" but i was under the impression is it react with rust
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Postby Mr Revhead » Fri Jan 30, 2009 3:07 pm

as for removing the rust
wire brush, wire wheel, finger nail, what ever you can get in there
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Postby bbq1988 » Fri Jan 30, 2009 3:15 pm

Be a man, do it with your teeth
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Postby Mr.Phreak » Fri Jan 30, 2009 3:18 pm

And don't get POR15 on anything you don't want it on (Hands, clothes, pets etc)

Adoom wrote:Not trying to be a dick or anything.

Didn't you know that I know everything?

You failed :P
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Postby Voyeur » Fri Jan 30, 2009 3:30 pm

Got access to a compressor? strip as much sealant as you can by hand, go to super cheap, or repco. buy one of those $30 sandblast kits and a $15 bucket of sand. go nuts then POR15 everything
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Postby Rick » Fri Jan 30, 2009 4:36 pm

Once you have delt to the rust you will need to get in behind and seal it up with some sealant other wise water will carry on get in behind.
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