ST185 Gearbox/Radiator questions

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ST185 Gearbox/Radiator questions

Postby Boosted_162 » Mon Feb 02, 2009 6:26 pm

Alright, my RC is in the final stages before being finished..

First up: The gearbox is crunchy only when going into reverse :?. Fluid was changed with Castrol VMX. Is mint in all the other gears, but can be a bit hard to engage into gear when sitting still. Do i need to get some redline oil in there?? Change clutch fluid?

And secondly: I broke my 2nd radiator in the car yesterday, ive got a big twin core aluminium one on its way, but im worried about space. I wont be able to fit the standard fan. Will i need to run a fan on at all? Keep in mind this is an RC, and there is a fan on the front of the IC prerad blowing backwards (prerad is infront of engine rad).

Cheers :D
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Postby Boosted_162 » Tue Feb 03, 2009 7:03 pm

Gearbox oil is now shockproof redline stuff. Clutch fluid has been changed. Car runs flawlessly once your moving, but as soon as you stop it wont go into gear easily, and crunches on reverse.

What the $&#$% is wrong!!! Im sick of this car!! :cry: :cry:
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Postby DeeCee » Tue Feb 03, 2009 7:06 pm

its syncros then
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Postby MrOizo » Tue Feb 03, 2009 7:07 pm

Boosted_162 wrote:Gearbox oil is now shockproof redline stuff. Clutch fluid has been changed. Car runs flawlessly once your moving, but as soon as you stop it wont go into gear easily, and crunches on reverse.

What the $&#$% is wrong!!! Im sick of this car!! :cry: :cry:


This sounds like when i forgot to put the 3rd bolt in on the pedal box. Made the master not travel as much as the master was rotating and not allowing full travel of the slave for releasing.

Have you tried adjusting out the push rod for the master??
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Postby Boosted_162 » Tue Feb 03, 2009 7:07 pm

DeeCee wrote:its syncros then


It cant be, because when your moving it wont crunch AT ALL. Still shifts mint, but as soon as your not moving, its stuffed :?

Im baffled :(
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Postby crispy'86 » Tue Feb 03, 2009 7:08 pm

Ok first off: Yes you'll need a fan to cool the coolant down. Sitting at lights or stopping for a while will easily bring the temp up

And sounds like your clutch hydraulics are gone or your clutch pedal box has broken in the frame where the pedal pivots. Is it really hard to push the clutch pedal??? Have a look at your clutch pedal under dash and see if it's bent or twised. Or get a mate to push the clutch
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Postby Boosted_162 » Tue Feb 03, 2009 8:00 pm

MrOizo wrote:
Boosted_162 wrote:Gearbox oil is now shockproof redline stuff. Clutch fluid has been changed. Car runs flawlessly once your moving, but as soon as you stop it wont go into gear easily, and crunches on reverse.

What the $&#$% is wrong!!! Im sick of this car!! :cry: :cry:


Have you tried adjusting out the push rod for the master??


Dude, your are a legend!! Adjusted the piston for the master at the clutch pedal, and its sweet!!!! Pedal is a little soft, but i suspect it has a little air. But still, goes into reverse WITHOUT CRUNCHING!!! :D :D :D

Now the question is... how come it needed adjusting? Its right at the end of the thread now so cant wind it out more. Id rather fix the cause than just cover it up.

Cheers
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Postby DeeCee » Tue Feb 03, 2009 8:19 pm

soz.. i should have expanded what i said.
When my gearbox went and became hard to shift, the syncro hub cracked. I continued to drive on it but then it got stuck which was when the syncro hub cracked all the way around:

Image

also, I found this in the car the other day:
Image

Image

the frame which the clutch pedal mechanism works on was broken and welded back up (in car lol)

so have a look underneath and see if that could be the issue as crispy has mentioned.
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Postby crispy'86 » Tue Feb 03, 2009 8:24 pm

Seems to be a common issue with celicas of the st16#/ & 18# recently. All the onew we had in at work with clutch pedals being stiff have had the exact problem in the pedal box. Possibly just high mileage or combination of that and owner neglect and abuse
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Postby Boosted_162 » Tue Feb 03, 2009 8:43 pm

Im hoping thats not whats happening to mine 8O, im hoping it justs because its done ~100km in the last year.

And i know my bracket isnt breaking/fixed up, it was one of the first things i checked :lol: :lol:
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Postby RunningRich » Tue Feb 03, 2009 10:56 pm

My ST205 pedal box failed like that too. Fatigue failure as the sheetmetal isn't strong enough to put up with heavy clutches.

Rebuilding the clutch hydraulics makes a huge difference. Just did mine and the pedal feel is far better.
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Postby DeeCee » Wed Feb 04, 2009 12:24 am

RunningRich wrote:My ST205 pedal box failed like that too. Fatigue failure as the sheetmetal isn't strong enough to put up with heavy clutches.

Rebuilding the clutch hydraulics makes a huge difference. Just did mine and the pedal feel is far better.

Rich, care to give a break down on what you did?
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Postby strx7 » Wed Feb 04, 2009 6:45 am

surf pedal boxes do that aswell.

reverse is synchro less in japanese gearboxes so graunching into reservse has nothing to do with synchros, it can only ever mean that either the input shaft or the output shaft is still turning slightly
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Postby MrOizo » Wed Feb 04, 2009 10:34 am

strx7 wrote:reverse is synchro less in japanese gearboxes so graunching into reservse has nothing to do with synchros, it can only ever mean that either the input shaft or the output shaft is still turning slightly


Thats why you should go into 2nd first to slow the shaft down isnt it ;D
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Postby RunningRich » Wed Feb 04, 2009 2:00 pm

DeeCee wrote:Rich, care to give a break down on what you did?


My car is special case because sllave is resleeved with stainless pipe and different seals. However you find that with high pressure clutches the single seal in the slave can get small chunks "bitten" out of it (nipped in gap between bore and piston) so it will need replacement fairly recently. You bite enough out of it that eventuallly it fails and the pedal drops to the floor (in my case on K Road New Years day). Once had one sleeved with brass and had bore wear too.

Worth flushing fluid every two years or so and putting new seals in the slave. Adjust the pedal correctly and check bracket for cracks. Never had an issue with master cylinder seals.

There is also a small plastic bush around the pin through the pedal. This is shit and falls apart, one day I will machine a decent bronze one.
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Postby DeeCee » Wed Feb 04, 2009 3:02 pm

Thanks Richard.
I'm just looking at potential maintenance/upgrades things to look at while the car is apart :)
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