ae111 clutch

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ae111 clutch

Postby Stott69 » Mon Jun 01, 2009 7:14 pm

Can anyone point me in the direction on info for the clutch in a ae111 bzr?
Need to change mine and want to know what the ins and outs are
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Postby frost » Mon Jun 01, 2009 8:04 pm

um what do you need to know?

there 212mm(surface friction area) and is a very generic clutch and cover. found in most fwd small cc toyota cars.
exidy. rpm. TGP. make stock and uprated items for them but not needed if stock engine.
you'll need the flywheel skimmed(depending on the condition) not always needed if the face is still nice and smooth. but best to. oh and new flywheel bolts is a good idea.
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Postby Stott69 » Mon Jun 01, 2009 8:30 pm

never done a clutch in a fwd. Is there a how to of pulling the gear box out online?
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Postby Dell'Orto » Mon Jun 01, 2009 9:09 pm

Its pretty straightforward really, just pull all the bolts out then put most of them back in when you're done
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Postby Stott69 » Mon Jun 01, 2009 9:12 pm

sweet that you know, might end up asking some of the local guys to give me a hand. beer will be in the fridge for when the car goes again
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Postby Bling » Mon Jun 01, 2009 10:28 pm

If you want to skim the flywheel (a good idea) you'll have to allow time for that to get done.
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Postby xsspeed » Tue Jun 02, 2009 7:48 am

To get gbox out
-disconnect wires, clutch line etc
-remove starter
-take weight of engine with crane or similar
-drain oil from gbox
-drop out the cross member(s)
-undo gbox bolts to engine, and backing plate
-support gbox with something (I use a low rise tranny jack)
-undo gbox mounts
-lower gearbox and engine slowly (leaving cambelt side mount on)
-should get to a point where you can pry the gbox off
-pray that you have your car jacked up enough to wheel the gbox out underneath.

that how I do it anyway

fitting is opposite of above
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Postby slighty_sykotic » Tue Jun 02, 2009 11:34 pm

xsspeed wrote:To get gbox out
-disconnect wires, clutch line etc
-remove starter
-take weight of engine with crane or similar
-drain oil from gbox
-drop out the cross member(s)
-undo gbox bolts to engine, and backing plate
-support gbox with something (I use a low rise tranny jack)
-undo gbox mounts
-lower gearbox and engine slowly (leaving cambelt side mount on)
-should get to a point where you can pry the gbox off
-pray that you have your car jacked up enough to wheel the gbox out underneath.

that how I do it anyway

fitting is opposite of above


You forgot the cvs. :) You need to pull hem out of the hub or break the cv's apart.
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Postby Bling » Tue Jun 02, 2009 11:48 pm

Sounds more and more like a c**t of a job :lol:
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Postby xsspeed » Wed Jun 03, 2009 12:13 am

oh lol, yuh cv's, more often than not you'll need to drop the lower arm off the suspension to get eth CVs out, and remove the tie rod ends from the hub carrier too. (large hammer required as I found out :D )
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Postby CelicaGT8 » Wed Jun 03, 2009 12:47 am

I recomend using smthing better than just a sizzor jack, but they do work if you have no other choice. but if you just put one under the gearbox and pull it onto it then lower the jack. that works quite well. or put a mattress under it and let it fall hehe. all the other stuff is really just common sence
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Postby xsspeed » Wed Jun 03, 2009 10:05 am

who said anything about scissor jack?

Use a low profile transmission jack if you can get your hands on one. Makes it very easy
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Postby Stott69 » Wed Jun 03, 2009 6:36 pm

sweet cheers for that, might borrow the two chain and blocks from work to hold every thing, not to keen to have any of the car fall on me
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Postby Lloyd » Wed Jun 03, 2009 10:12 pm

xsspeed wrote:oh lol, yuh cv's, more often than not you'll need to drop the lower arm off the suspension to get eth CVs out, and remove the tie rod ends from the hub carrier too. (large hammer required as I found out :D )


Leave tie rods on, just drop the nut/bolt for the bottom ball joint and everything will move out of the way. Undo the CV nut and shafts should come out without anything else needing undoing
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