The Wheel Suggestion Thread

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Postby MR2BOY23 » Sun Dec 20, 2009 2:50 pm

10" is probably a little excessive
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Postby Boosted_162 » Sun Dec 20, 2009 5:19 pm

Mine are 17x8 +36 and 17x9 +39. If you aim for around that size/offset it will fit perfect, and allow you to run up to 255s on the rear at a later date if you wish, i also run 235/40s on the front and get no rub even with stock struts.
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Postby iOnic » Sun Dec 20, 2009 5:59 pm

I tried a 17x9 35p with 215/40 on the front of my car and the wheel sat outside the guards and hit the strut. Needed a ~10mm spacer to clear the coilover but that would have made it sit even further out of the guards so I flagged that.

17x8 +35 front and 17x9 +35 rear is perfectly flush on an MR2 with stock guards and 215/40 235/40 tyres
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Postby JustinSpiderholden » Sun Dec 20, 2009 6:49 pm

Whats wrong with the whels you got I tink they look all good
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Postby MR2BOY23 » Sun Dec 20, 2009 8:46 pm

Heres the 17X10 on the rear and 17X9 on the front

I think it looks good, guards will need flaring


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Image
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Postby fuel » Sun Dec 20, 2009 9:24 pm

yep and this is where our friend tyre stretch comes in handy. don't listen to the narrow minded people who will tell you otherwise.
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Postby Al » Sun Dec 20, 2009 9:27 pm

MR2BOY23 wrote:Image


Thats hot.
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Postby fuel » Sun Dec 20, 2009 9:38 pm

yep. any bigger res pics of the car with its current rims?
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Postby MR2BOY23 » Sun Dec 20, 2009 9:42 pm

fuel wrote:yep. any bigger res pics of the car with its current rims?


My car? Or the one posted above
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Postby fuel » Sun Dec 20, 2009 10:43 pm

your one, as in your avatar.
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Postby fuel » Sun Dec 20, 2009 10:45 pm

never mind just saw them in your link in your sig. I reckon those wheels really suit the MR2 as it is, but your choice to get new feet afterall and could make it look like a totally new car.
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Postby tsoob » Sun Dec 20, 2009 10:57 pm

ill find out on the one you asked about on tomorrow,


dont really want to use spacers on this thing as it will need to be certed again then.

We are looking at off the shelf wheels here, driftek is an option IF they have the stocks.

off the top of my head we will need a wheel at around these offsets.
17x7 at 40p
17x8 at 38p
17x9 at 35p

ill confirm more tomorrow
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Postby soopachargen » Sun Dec 20, 2009 11:14 pm

black drifteks would look pretty hot
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Postby tsoob » Sun Dec 20, 2009 11:29 pm

soopachargen wrote:black drifteks would look pretty hot


agreed 8)
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Postby MR2BOY23 » Mon Dec 21, 2009 12:18 am

I've found some work meisters for sale cheap. Problem is there 17X8 not staggered

Do the wheels have to be staggered? Or will this fcuk with the handling
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Postby Bling » Mon Dec 21, 2009 12:27 am

Shouldn't make a difference to handling, probably more of a looks thing.
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Postby MR2BOY23 » Mon Dec 21, 2009 12:30 am

mr2oc wrote:. 10mm difference for 91-92 (195/60 14 & 205/60 14). 30mm difference for 93-95 (195/55 15 & 225/50 15).
As Shoty stated, less size difference = more oversteer, more stagger = more understeer. Example: 215/40 17 all around will oversteer more than stock. 205/40 17 front and 255/40 17 rear will understeer more than stock.


2. The performance reason to run a double stagger is weight savings. If you run a 16x7.5 +30 with a 215/45 16 up front vs a 17x7.5 with a 215/40 17 you'll save at least a couple lbs. That can be a huge change in steering feel at the least.
It also looks great IMO because the mkii (and mki) is basically a wedge shape so the front wheel look larger against the body up front when they're the same diameter front and rear. Also, the deeper the lip on a wheel, the smaller the diameter appears to be (optical illusion draws the eye into the center of the wheel instead of to the edges) so if you use a small lip up front like a 17x8 +35 with a 1" lip and a 17x9 +35 with a 2.5" lip the front wheel will appear to be larger (further emphasized by the wedge shape of the car).
The double stagger is good for performance and looks, but unfortunately it makes tire choices tougher which often outweighs everything else.


3. Use gordaen's calc ....... his flush numbers and suspension clearance numbers came from me. My numbers are what most people use. Hellaflush and VIP style setups are changing that somewhat and on the performance side more people have been fitting 235/40 17 up front (some with no modifications). If your going to push my numbers, be prepared to measure, test fit, and use more tire wearing negative camber.
As far as tire clearance and fender rolling - flush numbers are for the wheels, not the tires - you must take into account the (actual) section width of the tire and whether it will overhang the wheel. There are too many tires and too many differences between tires of the "same" size to know exactly what will and won't fit with or without rolling. If you want flush and no rolling, do a little stretch (like a 235 on a 9). If you want to go beyond simple, once again, be prepared to do your own homework on the tire size you want to use, how much it will overhang the wheel, how far the wheel is from flush, and have coilovers so you can adjust camber to clear if you don't want to roll.
Offset will also affect oversteer and understeer. The tire stagger is not the only part of that equation. Track width is measured from the center of one tire to the center of the other. The center of the tire is determined solely by wheel offset. If you use a 9.5 +50 out back (supra turbo wheel) with a 275/40 17, you've actually decreased track width which will cause more oversteer although in this case the huge meat out back will bring things back in check. A better example may be using a common setup for the FN01RC: 17x7 +35 front with 215/40 17 and 17x9 +43 with a 245/40 17 out back. Front track width increased by 20mm (10mm further out board each side) and 4mm out back. Let's assume this is going on a '93 so the tire stagger is factory. In theory this setup will cause more oversteer than stock because the front track width increased more than the rear and the tire stagger stayed the same as stock.


4. Listed on any tire spec chart. Tirerack is a great place to look and they're also listed on all the tire manufacturer sites. Each tire has a specific wheel width range and it's listed on those charts.
The biggest "mistake" people make is going bigger than 225 on 7" and 7.5" wheels. People frequently use 235/40 17 on the back of a two with a 7 or 7.5 which is outside the spec for any tire I've ever looked at. 235/40 17 requires an 8" to 9" wheel by the books. You can certainly mount it on a thinner wheel, but the performance is diminished - the sidewall has more squish which makes it less responsive and the contact patch is distorted giving less than optimal grip. The unanswered question is: What is the performance difference between a 225/45 17 and a 235/40 17 mounted on a 17x7? I'll trust the tire manufactures recommendations on this one and use a 225/45 17 in that scenario.
Also understand that the wheel width recommendation is based on width AND aspect ratio. a 235/50 17 will fit properly on a narrower wheel than a 235/40 17 (but is unnecessarily tall for a 2)


Found this just not too sure how bad the over steer would be
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Postby fuel » Mon Dec 21, 2009 12:41 am

if you are running the same tyres you have currently then it would be no different to your current staggered rims, just the front pair of tyres may look semi stretched while the rears will look opposite with fairly flat bulgey sidewalls
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Postby tsoob » Mon Dec 21, 2009 9:50 am

with the tyres you have a stagger is preferable, but you could run the 8" wide meisters, do you know what offsets they are?
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Postby MR2BOY23 » Mon Dec 21, 2009 10:29 am

tsoob wrote:with the tyres you have a stagger is preferable, but you could run the 8" wide meisters, do you know what offsets they are?


atmo monster wrote:offset around 39-42 according my ruller and eyes...
[/quote]
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