JZS161 Aristo

[TRD_TOY]

Hi guys

im looking at getting a JZS161 V300 Aristo but need to know what to look out for on those cars??

Its a 2001 model, factory 2JZGTE with about 120ks on the clock.

Any known issues with them???

Cheers

[dnalunchie]

Hi guys

im looking at getting a JZS161 V300 Aristo but need to know what to look out for on those cars??

Its a 2001 model, factory 2JZGTE with about 120ks on the clock.

Any known issues with them???

Cheers

im not sure if it still happens on Aristo's but on Supras if you have too large an exhaust downpipe downpipe they will overboost massivly. So if the one your looking at has exhuast mods you may want to check that out.

[Crampy]

Hi guys

im looking at getting a JZS161 V300 Aristo but need to know what to look out for on those cars??

Its a 2001 model, factory 2JZGTE with about 120ks on the clock.

Any known issues with them???

Cheers

Buy it.
They're awesome.

[Crampy]

Yeah, exhaust mods should be from cat back, as they do overboost. Boost cut is at 1 BAR.

The front ball joints have issues, have a hunt through American Aristo / Lexus forums.

Valve stem seals can start leaking, causing a bit of smoke on start up.

The door lock motors f*ck out all the time and are VERY expensive to replace through Toyota, however you can buy replacement motors on Ebay and DIY.

The brakes are kind of poos on them too, as I've found out. Upgrading to Supra 4 Pots are a good mod, which I may or may not do (need $$$). Having said that, they could do with a bleed and fresh fluid and new pads, will check.

[Crampy]

The trans are super tough, but make sure it's been serviced and flushed with Toyota genuine fluid (the good stuff ).

[deaf_rattle]

the only problem i have seen with them is that it only takes a week from the owner saying ill leave it standard till they are pulling it apart and modifying stuff.

Im not saying thats a bad thing though.

[Jason T]

Hi guys

im looking at getting a JZS161 V300 Aristo but need to know what to look out for on those cars??

Its a 2001 model, factory 2JZGTE with about 120ks on the clock.

Any known issues with them???

Cheers

Lower arm bushes and ball joints.

Air flow meter.

Factory bov.

4WS rear rack leaks.

Engine sludge.

OBD2 Scanners dont work...paper clip does

Pod filters make car slower...Sell you a blitz kit cheap cheap

A heap of good info can be found here...

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-second-generation/460051-2gs-300-400-430-hall-of-fame-links-thread-look-in-here-first-o-gs-and-newbies.html

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-second-generation/288923-hello-all-links-to-most-diys-for-the-gs-please-look-here-before-you-search.html

Buy this one http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Toyota/auction-271359802.htm

Mmmm black interior

[Jason T]

The door lock motors f*ck out all the time and are VERY expensive to replace through Toyota, however you can buy replacement motors on Ebay and DIY.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Alarms-security/Other/auction-275463671.htm

[MR2SIK]

Looks like an old Tamiya models motor

[Crampy]

the only problem i have seen with them is that it only takes a week from the owner saying ill leave it standard till they are pulling it apart and modifying stuff.

Im not saying thats a bad thing though.

Who are you talking about Matt?
Mine is still standard....ish

[Crampy]

The door lock motors f*ck out all the time and are VERY expensive to replace through Toyota, however you can buy replacement motors on Ebay and DIY.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Alarms-security/Other/auction-275463671.htm

Yeah those are the buggers. There's even some good videos on youtube and forums on how to pull the thing apart and replace the motor.

[GTTpower]

Hot intake pipe on a cold night ftw

[RH9]

Dunno how you figure a pod makes less power......have witnessed 15kw atw gain from binning the airbox. Once your moving above 10kph i'd say you get plenty of cool air coming in the engine bay

Cold airboxes can cost you power too if they arent done properly.

Having had a good look at the lower arm geometry im certain the ball joints will only wear prematurely and fail if the cars lowered too far as the ball joint can only tilt so far and if you go too low your trying to move the BJ beyond its normal travel.

I've already replaced a LR door lock motor ($450 worth) - they are delicate and watch occupants dont try opening the door when you hit the unlock button as that looks like it breaks the shitty plastic mechanism.

Also heard the trans is good for 350 rwkws so no need to touch them apart from a oil change if the fluid looks dark.

Had no other issues except the drivers sunvisor losing its tension and the odd light bulb blowing. Great car with shattering top speed

[Crampy]

After a run at the drags my intake pipe was too hot to touch. I took the next 15 minutes of so with the bonnet open to cool it down enough to touch it. My pod filter is a no name thing and isn't very big. I've heard a trust drop in filter element in the stock box makes 10kw through a good amount of the rev range. I've bought one on Trademe, but still waiting to hear if it's arrived.

[RH9]

Hmmmm yeah if your getting heat soak from idle with bonnet down it would cost you power but once your moving the air cools quickly and the hot pipe wont heat the air up as its not a heat exchanger like an intercooler is.

The car i saw on the dyno had its bonnet open so the intake pipe wasnt "hot" but the airbox was costing the car 15kws atw (RZ Supra). Looked like the same airbox as ours too.

Will be interesting to see if you get a gain from your plan as every car can be different