Sub stop working. I confus.

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Sub stop working. I confus.

Postby Adamal » Sat Oct 23, 2010 2:15 pm

So was driving home and my sub cut out. After a minute or two it came back on for a while, but then cut out and didn't come back.

So I got home and checked that the amp was receiving a remote on signal, which it is, as there power light is on. Checked the wiring to the sub, and that seems all good. Even pulled the sub out of the box and checked the wiring there, which also seems intact.
I thought that maybe the RCA cables had come loose at the head unit side, but all seemed well.

Thought maybe I had it too loud, as I like the ball vibrating feeling that Shapeshifter dishes out in the bass department, and the amp had overheated. It was quite warm to the touch, but have left it off and its cooled down and still no go.

So this has me somewhat confused, as I'm not exactly an audio 'expert', but my current knowledge tells me that all should be working. The only other thing I can think of is pulling the amp apart and seeing if something has blown in there.

This is kind of urgent, as its coming up to summer hoe season, and I'm not sure how I'm going pull some skanks if I don't have any bass!!
Motorsport is like sex. You could take it to track and have a long, enjoyable session, or you could take it to the strip and get it over with in less than 20 seconds.
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Postby captain crescent » Sun Oct 24, 2010 2:59 am

check your fuses on the amp and the main fuse on the battery lead to the amp if you havent already. dont want you to pull your amp down and find a fuse later
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Postby Adamal » Tue Oct 26, 2010 9:12 pm

Yea, checked the fuse on the amp, its all good. The fuse from the battery is sweet, because the amp for my speakers is fine, plus the power light is on the amp. Pulled it apart and doesn't appear to be any blown caps or anything like that.

Still pretty stumped. My have to get my hands on an oscilloscope or something :P
Motorsport is like sex. You could take it to track and have a long, enjoyable session, or you could take it to the strip and get it over with in less than 20 seconds.
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Postby DeeCee » Tue Oct 26, 2010 9:14 pm

you sure the sub isn't dead? check coil resistance.
and you don't need an o-scope. A multimeter should see you fine in terms of testing. tone test or resistance test should do the trick.
check all connections, loose wire/strands, cut/damaged insulation etc
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Postby Adamal » Tue Oct 26, 2010 10:26 pm

Will have to get my hands on a meter.

Looks somewhat like this one, think its the same

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 421115.htm

Its rated the same, as a dual voice coil. Amp running it is a 600w Fusion thing.

I've taken the sub out of the box, and all the wiring looks alright, but I'll test it out once I get my hands on a meter.
Motorsport is like sex. You could take it to track and have a long, enjoyable session, or you could take it to the strip and get it over with in less than 20 seconds.
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Postby XS1V » Wed Oct 27, 2010 10:22 am

Pete has one ;)

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Postby sik_gt_starly » Wed Oct 27, 2010 10:26 am

when you took sub out did it smell burnt?

Ive had similar sounds cranking then sub stops working followed by the smell of something burning, was an alpine type S 12" sub less than a year old, farked for no aparant reason
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Postby THA SHZ » Wed Oct 27, 2010 12:45 pm

ad check your earthing first of all , i had the same problem in the chaser , painted surface , sanded it back , mint as tits :)
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Postby sergei » Wed Oct 27, 2010 1:19 pm

If you don't have an ohm meter, you could check sub by using 1 AA Battery. Apply AA Battery across the disconnected sub wires (technically if applied positive to positive the sub should "pop out", if reverse it will "pop in"). It is safe to use AA battery as the current is not high (due to low voltage).
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Postby Adamal » Wed Oct 27, 2010 3:46 pm

Well, just chucked in the flatties sub (Boyds, not yours Pete ;) ) And that went fine. Looks like its a sub problem :(

Gonna check the wiring first of all, as if the way the whole audio setup was wired when I got the car has anything to say about it, thats probably the problem right there!
Motorsport is like sex. You could take it to track and have a long, enjoyable session, or you could take it to the strip and get it over with in less than 20 seconds.
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Postby Adamal » Wed Oct 27, 2010 4:30 pm

Ok, now I REALLY don't know wtf.

Just checked the wiring with a multimeter on beep setting, and appears ok.... So just tried the sergei test and that works too!! :?

Guess I'll chuck it all back together and see how she goes...
Motorsport is like sex. You could take it to track and have a long, enjoyable session, or you could take it to the strip and get it over with in less than 20 seconds.
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Postby sergei » Wed Oct 27, 2010 5:01 pm

Adamal wrote:Ok, now I REALLY don't know wtf.

Just checked the wiring with a multimeter on beep setting, and appears ok.... So just tried the sergei test and that works too!! :?

Guess I'll chuck it all back together and see how she goes...


Might be a dry joint in the amp or stereo. Try bashing amp when it is playing and see if you can simulate the problem.

RCA connectors are prone to have dry joints if they are mounted on the PCB board (both on stereo and amp).
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Postby Adamal » Wed Oct 27, 2010 5:10 pm

Well, chucked it back in and its working. Pounding like a porn star.

Thing is, it was in place this afternoon, no working. Swapped over flatties, his worked. Pulled mine apart and checked all the joints, added some insulation around some of the wires, tested it with a battery and was sweet. Chucked it back in and away she goes.

Spaseibol, Comrade, for the tip :) (Excuse the bad spelling on that one)
Motorsport is like sex. You could take it to track and have a long, enjoyable session, or you could take it to the strip and get it over with in less than 20 seconds.
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