thirsty for oil?
Moderator: The Mod Squad
My old Levin with silvertop used about a litre of oil every 2 - 3000kms and that was after i rebuilt it.
Silvertops just use oil alot.
Silvertops just use oil alot.
Last edited by CAMB01 on Mon Nov 08, 2010 4:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1993 Mitsubishi EVO 1 Racecar
1998 Mitsubishi Mirage ZR Asti Mivec (Daily Whip)
1989 AE91 FX-ZS (Previous)
1994 AE101 Levin 20v (previous)
1992 EE90 Corolla Sedan (previous)
1986 AE82 FX-GT Corolla (previous)
1989 AE92 FX-GTZ Supercharged (previous)
1992 EE90 Corolla Hatchback (previous)
Custom Works Automotive
http://www.HCCC.org.nz
1998 Mitsubishi Mirage ZR Asti Mivec (Daily Whip)
1989 AE91 FX-ZS (Previous)
1994 AE101 Levin 20v (previous)
1992 EE90 Corolla Sedan (previous)
1986 AE82 FX-GT Corolla (previous)
1989 AE92 FX-GTZ Supercharged (previous)
1992 EE90 Corolla Hatchback (previous)
Custom Works Automotive
http://www.HCCC.org.nz
BZG Wagon wrote:MR2BOY23 wrote:Akane wrote:MR2BOY23 wrote:Magnatec is a horrible oil
Why's that?
Tried and tested?
Can't say I've had any issues with my bp-ze (Maz Infini), 4age (BZ Touring) or 3sgte (Caldina GTT). Certainly no expert on the subject though.
Tried a few differet oils (such as valvoline synthetic), but keep coming back to Magnatec.
Agreed. Toyota use Castrol oil in their workshops for a reason - the oil is good. Magnatec is just a little light for an older 4AGE and they start to drink it... But if you own a 4AGE that should be expected.
A racer I know used to run Castrol GTX 15/40 in his R32 race car and it stood up to the temperature well, but wouldn't last as long as Motul or other race oils... But then GTX is only $40 for 4L not $120 .
- 79rolla
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my old 4k drank about 4L or more of oil in 1000ks... also ate 3 spark plugs, so stop complaining
all tho it did turn out that one of the bores were cracked and it leaked oil out of every gasket it could
all tho it did turn out that one of the bores were cracked and it leaked oil out of every gasket it could
Current:KE30 my baby,ke35 (now going to get the 2t treatment),isuzu spacecab ute
past: AE82 FXGT
(sorry about my sheit spelling)
past: AE82 FXGT
(sorry about my sheit spelling)
My 20v when ran on 10W40, would consume 1L in 5000km (it has already done 230k, hasn't got worse.). When I gave the car to my sister I switched to 15W40, now between oil changes there is no need to top up (although I do oil changes at 5k).
As for my GT4, I run it on 10W60 and it does not consume any of it for period between services (5k) I drive it hard, and it is approaching 166k.
I think people start having problems with oil consumption when they miss services for couple of times. The oil that is in the engine consumes its buffers and becomes chemically active, which hardens all the seals, turns into sludge and cools and lubricates a lot less. Oil control rings become worn (due to hard particles in oil), and/or coked, which leads to high oil consumption.
As for my GT4, I run it on 10W60 and it does not consume any of it for period between services (5k) I drive it hard, and it is approaching 166k.
I think people start having problems with oil consumption when they miss services for couple of times. The oil that is in the engine consumes its buffers and becomes chemically active, which hardens all the seals, turns into sludge and cools and lubricates a lot less. Oil control rings become worn (due to hard particles in oil), and/or coked, which leads to high oil consumption.
Truenotch wrote:Agreed. Toyota use Castrol oil in their workshops for a reason - the oil is good
dunno if thats the real reason in a lot of cases, its definitely not for their pricing anyway
im not a fan of magnatec either, but i have no real scientific reasoning for it, just lke most peoples like/dislike for certain oils. how can you really tell if an oil is good or not? i used to use protec in the race car and it wasnt suited for that, doesnt mean its a bad oil
i cant telll you exactly how much it drinks but it does seem to be alot
engine has done 195k
it doesnt leak oil other than the normal light coating over the lower half of the engine but no drips
ok so if im going to change my oil to something else what is the general consensis on grade and company
also how much should i put in? 3 liters? 4 liters?
engine has done 195k
it doesnt leak oil other than the normal light coating over the lower half of the engine but no drips
ok so if im going to change my oil to something else what is the general consensis on grade and company
also how much should i put in? 3 liters? 4 liters?
girl: can I trust you?
me: you can trust anything
me: you can trust anything
tim_blair wrote:i cant telll you exactly how much it drinks but it does seem to be alot
engine has done 195k
it doesnt leak oil other than the normal light coating over the lower half of the engine but no drips
ok so if im going to change my oil to something else what is the general consensis on grade and company
also how much should i put in? 3 liters? 4 liters?
To the full mark (but not over).
Use 15W40 grade.
Truenotch wrote:A racer I know used to run Castrol GTX 15/40 in his R32 race car and it stood up to the temperature well, but wouldn't last as long as Motul or other race oils... But then GTX is only $40 for 4L not $120 .
I have always and still use Castrol GTX Modern Engine Oil 15w-40 in my race car.
Due to it being turbo tested and the 'better' castrol oils dont seem to absorb the heat out of the engine as well we found.
I like valvoline, I tried vr1 which is a fully synthetic 10/40 race oil in my engine, little thin for the revs that a 4age can do and when i pulled it down after a year the mains had started to hammer a little, can really only put it down to the oil and the revs, now just use that in my mx bike, but xld 20/50 is awesome, seems happy as and i quite like it as its a really good quality mineral oil, doesn't use any and dosen't throw any out, I think bazz went to a 20/50 in his as well. I dont like magnatec. Only really for the reason that most of the engines that I have seen run bearings run magnatec, not very scinentific but good enough for me to never use it in anything I build
Current ride: Sweeeeet Hiace. 3L power!!!!
Project: AW11 4agte, 410kw 555hp on 26psi
11.1 @ 125.5mph with more to come, As seen in Aug 2011 Performance Car, haha
viewtopic.php?t=61383
Huge thanks to Phil from NZEFI, Al and Brendan from Caraid and Hamish from Sheifield Cresent Auto
Project: AW11 4agte, 410kw 555hp on 26psi
11.1 @ 125.5mph with more to come, As seen in Aug 2011 Performance Car, haha
viewtopic.php?t=61383
Huge thanks to Phil from NZEFI, Al and Brendan from Caraid and Hamish from Sheifield Cresent Auto
tim_blair wrote:also how much should i put in? 3 liters? 4 liters?
Chuck in about 3L, start it up and run till oil light goes off, turn it off and leave it to sit for a bit. Check dipstick and top up to suit. Low to high marks on the dipstick are ROUGHLY 0.5-1L. I say "roughly" and "about" as i've never measured it, just know when to stop pouring
yep.. any less than 15w and my ST drinks it... never measured how much but every time I would check it (roughly weekly) it would need a top up...
still does every now and again - but definitely not as frequently.
still does every now and again - but definitely not as frequently.
Past casualties
1986 4age liftback (sold)
1985 4age aw11 (well crunched)
1993 ae101 gt apex levin (sold)
1986 4age liftback (sold)
1985 4age aw11 (well crunched)
1993 ae101 gt apex levin (sold)
MR2BOY23 wrote:Akane wrote:MR2BOY23 wrote:Magnatec is a horrible oil
Why's that?
Tried and tested?
I know people who have put that in they're car around puke and had it was literally baked to the engine. That was in a turbo application, I've also used it in my car and it turned to shit after 2000kms~. Oil pressure also was very low in comparison
Errrr not for me, and i'm pretty confident I give my car more death than you give yours...
Example: Ran Magnatec for 2000kms before the Manfield Trackday, most of which was on MR2 club runs in the area, driving relatively hard. Thrashed the nuts off it @ Manfield, drove home, oil is still a medium/light brown, still over the 'F' mark and it builds oil pressure up enough to kill the idiot light in about 1.5sec.
Bloody good i reckon
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1992 SW20 MR2 GT-S Turbo
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Previous Rides: Mazda 323, Toyota Levin BZ-G, 1992 SW20 MR2, 1994 Gen3 SW20 MR2 T-Bar

1992 SW20 MR2 GT-S Turbo
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Previous Rides: Mazda 323, Toyota Levin BZ-G, 1992 SW20 MR2, 1994 Gen3 SW20 MR2 T-Bar
I've used magnatec in all of my cars for the last 9 years - this includes high km bluetop 4age in my racecar, then the 3sge, my high km 4age 20v Marino, 2.2l camry, dirty old high km falcon, 4agze trueno, and my 4afe corolla.
All of these cars got given a LOT of throttle and revs!
The 20v silvertop in the marino used about 1.5L per 5000km
All the other cars needed about 0.5L per 5000km
Ken
All of these cars got given a LOT of throttle and revs!
The 20v silvertop in the marino used about 1.5L per 5000km
All the other cars needed about 0.5L per 5000km
Ken
I used to think that the orange and green tictacs gave you special powers. The orange ones would make you stronger and the green ones would make you faster. So i used to eat some green ones and run around my lounge as fast as i could, then eat the orange ones and try to pick up the sofa. I wish it were true!
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allencr
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tim_blair wrote:i cant telll you exactly how much it drinks but it does seem to be alot
also how much should i put in? 3 liters? 4 liters?
Why even reply when he doesn't seem to know anything?
There have been too many "It's using oil!" posts where you finally find out that they seem to think it should not need any oil between changes!
allencr wrote:There have been too many "It's using oil!" posts where you finally find out that they seem to think it should not need any oil between changes!
They do? Not in a well-working engine where all of the seals are fine..... You should be changing the oil regularly enough that it doesn't need a top up anyway, unless it's burning a huge amount, in which case something is wrong and should be fixed.
Well, at least I don't think so.
Cheers,
Brandon
2000 ZZT231 Manual Toyota Celica
Brandon
2000 ZZT231 Manual Toyota Celica
- touge_ae101
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the thing is once you have thrashed a 20V regularly and kept it topped up etc, you appreciate how awesome these engines are that they just happily use a bit of oil and still take a thrashing. one of those 'you won't believe it till you try it' things.
only need to rebuild a 20V if it runs bearings pretty much. (or throws a rod
)
20V's are just awesome.
only need to rebuild a 20V if it runs bearings pretty much. (or throws a rod
20V's are just awesome.