How big a tank do I need if I dry sump my motor?

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How big a tank do I need if I dry sump my motor?

Postby DexGT » Thu Nov 04, 2010 11:00 pm

As the subject says , How big a tank do I need if I dry sump my motor?.
The motor is the 1500cc 5E-FTE (turbo, 220Kw) in my race car , is 5-6 litres about right , too much or not enough ?
Thanks for your replys 8)
EP82 Starlet GT club race car;
best time around Manfield to date : 1:19:91

"Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car.
"Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car.
"Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence.
"Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.
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Postby neo » Fri Nov 05, 2010 10:00 am

.. just pulling up a chair and subscribing to the topic...

So drysump huh...
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Postby iOnic » Fri Nov 05, 2010 10:22 am

You'll be wanting about 8-9liters IMO. That much capacity will give the oil more time to de-aerate and cool down after going through multiple pumps and all the oil galleries. 5L isn't much more than the factory wet sump and at extended high revs you may have inconsistent oil pressure from the oil being aerated. We've had a few cars through work with factory dry sumps and they're all carrying 10-15liters of oil in their tanks.

I'd personally sooner build a good wet sump than go down the dry sump path but each to their own - I'm sure you've got good reason for doing it.
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Postby Akane » Fri Nov 05, 2010 2:04 pm

One of the main advantages of going dry is you can lower the engine. Definitely worth doing if you're rich and competitive.
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Postby DexGT » Fri Nov 05, 2010 5:28 pm

I have a fully baffled / trap door'ed sump with a pick up set at 8mm from the bottom and a run big end/s :cry: .
So at the moment I'm looking at options and if I dry sump the motor I want to put the tank in the engine bay , therefore trying to figure out how big a tank I need .
I may just have to get a better oil supply to the big ends, the investigation continues :lol:

Thanks for the reply's
EP82 Starlet GT club race car;
best time around Manfield to date : 1:19:91

"Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car.
"Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car.
"Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence.
"Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.
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Location: wellington

Postby matt dunn » Fri Nov 05, 2010 7:07 pm

DexGT wrote:I have a fully baffled / trap door'ed sump with a pick up set at 8mm from the bottom and a run big end/s :cry: .
So at the moment I'm looking at options and if I dry sump the motor I want to put the tank in the engine bay , therefore trying to figure out how big a tank I need .
I may just have to get a better oil supply to the big ends, the investigation continues :lol:

Thanks for the reply's


There's baffled and baffeled,
and in my opinion trap doors in sumps cause run bearings.

There is no reason a well made wet sump wont work.

Do you have a good oil light with a high pressure switch?
Use a 20+ psi switch and an LED light as they flash on quicker.
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Postby DFECTED » Fri Nov 05, 2010 9:35 pm

You have a puss little oil pump?
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Postby iOnic » Fri Nov 05, 2010 10:05 pm

I'd focus my attention on figuring out exactly what killed the bearings and then go from there. What does your oil pressure gauge say during cornering?

Also have you considered an Accusump unit? They're a lot cheaper than a full dry sump system but could give you that extra boost of pressure if/when you need it.
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Postby allencr » Sat Nov 06, 2010 9:22 am

DexGT wrote:I have a fully baffled / trap door'ed sump with a pick up set at 8mm from the bottom and a run big end/s

matt dunn wrote:There is no reason a well made wet sump wont work.

iOnic wrote:I'd focus my attention on figuring out exactly what killed the bearings and then go from there.


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Postby DexGT » Sat Nov 06, 2010 5:27 pm

iOnic wrote:I'd focus my attention on figuring out exactly what killed the bearings and then go from there. What does your oil pressure gauge say during cornering?

Also have you considered an Accusump unit? They're a lot cheaper than a full dry sump system but could give you that extra boost of pressure if/when you need it.


I am focusing on the cause , I'm investigating my options and an accusump is probablly the way to go for what I need , I am just looking into all the chooses .

Thanks for all the advice so far 8)
EP82 Starlet GT club race car;
best time around Manfield to date : 1:19:91

"Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car.
"Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car.
"Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence.
"Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.
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Location: wellington

Postby iOnic » Sat Nov 06, 2010 6:40 pm

Could also take the sump off, fill it with the amount of oil you usually run and bolt (and seal) a perspex cover on the flange and go for a drive (in another car :lol:) and have a helper see what the oil does under different forces.

Trouble with baffles and trap doors is that while they try to keep oil around the pickup, if oil leaves the pickup area - they also hinder it's return.
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Postby DFECTED » Wed Nov 10, 2010 8:40 pm

what was wrong with it before the freshen up?
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Postby CAMB01 » Thu Nov 11, 2010 12:24 am

Collapsed pistons due to possibly running lean from small injectors and tight piston to bore clearances.
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Postby Flannelman » Sat Nov 13, 2010 8:46 pm

quick guide. if the berring run is the furtherest from pump its lack of oil supply to pump. oil pressure drops the further away from the pumping sorce

if bering is closer then its more complicated issues in the oil galleries/design in the motor.
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