toyota brake proportioning valves

[Lloyd]

Push the pedal down ever so slightly and stick it there with a bar which keeps the compensating port closed you don't loose fluid anyway

[krock]

haha cool thats a good one. i was wondering if there was a way to just block it. i'll give that a try

[rollaholic]

Push the pedal down ever so slightly and stick it there with a bar which keeps the compensating port closed you don't loose fluid anyway

never too old to learn new tricks!

[Bling]

Why is having to bleed the master considered something to try avoid?

[Lloyd]

Just be aware that leaving it on long term means brake lights make the battery go flat. If you're just doing it to change a caliper or something then its an easy way to not have to bleed everything.

Handy not having to bleed the master because you have to do every wheel. If you wanna do it quickly and easily (ie changing a caliper) then just push the pedal down a bit and you often don't even have to bleed any other wheel than the one you're changing over. Less cost on brake fluid and less mucking around opening places that could introduce air etc

[YeMs]

Why is having to bleed the master considered something to try avoid?

for some one with minimal automotive experience and expertise it can be some what tricky getting all the air out is all.. and when the time comes to throw in the towel because they just cant figure it out, it makes it difficult to try drive to a garage with no brakes to get it sorted. theres nothing difficult about it..

as for stopping the fluid coming out i use the little rubber nipple covers that come on new wheel cylinders. with a tiny stretch, they fit over the brake hose end. you only need to cover the 2 front the master cylinder.
the 2 that go to the rear brakes wont leak as there is vacuum holding the fluid in. which brings me to my next point, bleeding the valve.

if you get some1 to man the pedal, get them to hold pressure down, loosen all the pipe fittings that go into the valve (usually 4, sometimes 5) untill the pedal goes to the floor. with the pedal being held down, tighten the pipe fittings. once tight, the pedal can be released drawing more fluid into the master cylinder.
repeat this untill clear fluid comes out and no bubbles.
after all that, you can do a full bleed, knowing there is no air in there and putting fresh fluid in =).

had a car in today that had a faulty prop valve, was gunna photo the steps cleaning it out but the guy cudnt afford it today.

[Bling]

Failed on the rear balance on Monday. Gave it a good bleed on the rear with a small amount of hope but no dice. So pulled the valve off the shell I have here and using your method gave them a clean out. Hoping to just switch them over and check out mine to see if I can spot any build up of crap.

The cleaned one doesn't have any muck in it now so hopefully all good. Also hoping its the exact same as the one in my car so it fits

One thing I did get stumped on was getting the cir-clip out. The piston didn't budge easily so I assumed you had to get the clip out as it sits normally. Was about the give up when the piston moved down into the valve Found it easier after that. Tried air to pop the piston out, but that didn't work so had to put a thin rod inside it and smack it with a hammer.

Nothing seemed to break so can't be too bad. One piston was clean as a whistle the 2nd had a small ring of grey crap in it. So I imagine the car I wrecked had a similar problem.

[YeMs]

Failed on the rear balance on Monday. Gave it a good bleed on the rear with a small amount of hope but no dice. So pulled the valve off the shell I have here and using your method gave them a clean out. Hoping to just switch them over and check out mine to see if I can spot any build up of crap.

The cleaned one doesn't have any muck in it now so hopefully all good. Also hoping its the exact same as the one in my car so it fits

One thing I did get stumped on was getting the cir-clip out. The piston didn't budge easily so I assumed you had to get the clip out as it sits normally. Was about the give up when the piston moved down into the valve Found it easier after that. Tried air to pop the piston out, but that didn't work so had to put a thin rod inside it and smack it with a hammer.

Nothing seemed to break so can't be too bad. One piston was clean as a whistle the 2nd had a small ring of grey crap in it. So I imagine the car I wrecked had a similar problem.

yeh, those circlips are a DREAM! many skinned knuckles and tantrums dealing with them. you kind gotta use a skinny screwdriver to hold the piston down, and a pick to get the clip out. you would be supprised at how little shit you clean out, that actually makes a difference!

i had 1 in at work the other day, the guy supplied his own s/h valve and wanted me to fit it. i was gunna keep his old one and do a step by step photo log of how to pull them to bits and clean them.

[Bling]

I replaced my valve today in the hope it will fix my problem. I was going to do a write up, but everything that could go wrong did.... First off the valve from the abs model'd ae111 I rebuilt was different to the one in my non abs car. Was always the potential for that, but was hoping it would be the same. So after 20 minutes of frustration to pop out the cir clips I finally got them apart Any ideas of taking photos at this stage went out the window due to being covered in brake fluid / dust up to my elbows and beyond.

All I can say is..... what a gay job! Took me a solid 2 hours to remove my intake, undo all the seized brake lines, clean out the valve on my car, refit it in the wrong way (which almost worked, which is why I didn't pick up on it sooner) take it back out, refit it the right way around. Find that only one brake line fitting wanted to go in without 5 minutes of adjusting to fit in square and not stuff the thread. All this while working under a 500W halogen light so I could see what I was doing.

/better pass my wof

[YeMs]

haha love it! the joys of being a mechanic.

[Lloyd]

And people thinking you should be charging them 15 mins for the job?