Fielder Z sluggish when cold

[sidewz]

Hey guys

My mrs has got a Fielder Z auto, and it seems a bit sluggish when cold.

I know they are gutless in the low revs normally, but this just seems a bit beyond that.
It almost feels reluctant to change down a gear.

I was wondering what other Fielder owners thought?

Cheers
Dave

[Rick]

I have got a Runx and found it quite peppy down low.

Have you changed the thermostat?

[sidewz]

I have got a Runx and found it quite peppy down low.

Have you changed the thermostat?

Has your runx got the 2zz-ge?

I havent really done anything yet. Checked the plugs today, seem fine.

Thought I would check if its a common fault?

[Analog]

I've just bought a 2001 runx Z (2zzge) with auto and have noticed the same thing. When you first start the engine and all is cold it is really sluggish (like no power at all) until things are warm. Then it has usual amounts of power. I got a garage to have a look at it, but they couldn't see anything wrong nor could they detect any obvious error codes. Engine wasn't fully cold though...

Only thing I could come up with is that there is some sort of power limiter until the auto trans fluid is up to some minimum temperature? I did read one post on here saying that changing the battery could help, but I can't really see why this would be the case?!?!

[sergei]

What might help is cleaning the MAF.

[sidewz]

What might help is cleaning the MAF.

Yeah, that sounds like a good place to start, thanks Sergei.

Seems to be a common cause of issues.

[sergei]

What might help is cleaning the MAF.

Yeah, that sounds like a good place to start, thanks Sergei.

Seems to be a common cause of issues.

Do it with crc carb cleaner, it is great for that.

[levinguy]

What might help is cleaning the MAF.

Yeah, that sounds like a good place to start, thanks Sergei.

Seems to be a common cause of issues.

Do it with crc carb cleaner, it is great for that.

but its injected?

[sergei]

What might help is cleaning the MAF.

Yeah, that sounds like a good place to start, thanks Sergei.

Seems to be a common cause of issues.

Do it with crc carb cleaner, it is great for that.

but its injected?

But it is a solvent?

[levinguy]

What might help is cleaning the MAF.

Yeah, that sounds like a good place to start, thanks Sergei.

Seems to be a common cause of issues.

Do it with crc carb cleaner, it is great for that.

but its injected?

But it is a solvent?

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[TRDWGN]

I think you will find the ECU retards the ignition a bit until the engine warms up, the blacktops do a similar thing

[sidewz]

does the vvtli rely on oil pressure, or is it electronic these days?

I wondered if it was to do with the cold oil not giving the same pressure or something, and not letting it change timings etc, kinda like how a turbo wont spool as fast when the oil is cold?


A bit far fetched, but it crossed my mind....

[sidewz]

I think you will find the ECU retards the ignition a bit until the engine warms up, the blacktops do a similar thing

Hmm, that describes what I am experiencing, but doesnt seemt like a something they would do on purpose to the 2zz-ge.
The result is that you put your foot down harder, and make the damn thing rev more than normal when its cold.

[YeMs]

What might help is cleaning the MAF.

Yeah, that sounds like a good place to start, thanks Sergei.

Seems to be a common cause of issues.

Do it with crc carb cleaner, it is great for that.

but its injected?

But it is a solvent?

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Have changed nearly a dozen AFM's in these. they get real sluggish, goin up hills is a small battle, put ur foot down till it kicks down and jumps up to redline. have also found a fuel injector/rail/valve cleaner works well. specially when they are up over 80,000k's.

generally if you clean the afm you will notice a change which generally indicates its on its way.

theres also the usuals to checks, plugs, fuel pressure, filters, emissions etc.

[sidewz]

righto.

Cleaned the MAF and reset the ecu.

Whilst it wasnt dead cold, it had been sitting for 2.5 hours.

I reckon it went heaps better. Much peppier when your only just leaning on the throttle.

Even compared to when its warm it was better, didnt seem to hesitate as much before changing gear.

I also noticed it doesnt rev up when I start it, where it used to rev up to about 2k for a couple of seconds. I kinda thought it was normal?

Anyway, proof of the pudding will be in the morning when the mrs takes it out cold.

[sidewz]

Wife reckons its good now

Didnt lag going up the hill this morning, and doesnt have the same hesitation.

The only complaint is that the idle is a little low now.

Yems, what's a new afm worth for one of these things?


Cheers for all your help guys!

Dave

[Quirky]

What is your idle from cold start?
And your idle when warm?
Should be 2000rpm cold, as you say, which drops to 1300rpm until the car warms up then drops again to around 800rpm.

[sidewz]

What is your idle from cold start?
And your idle when warm?
Should be 2000rpm cold, as you say, which drops to 1300rpm until the car warms up then drops again to around 800rpm.

Thats what it used to do.

Warm idle is about 800 or so, but it sometimes feels a bit too low. Maybe a bit rough.

Not sure about cold. I will ask the mrs to check in the morning, but I wouldnt hold my breath on a useful answer.

"Uhm, it started?? What more did you want?"

But it doesnt seem to kick up to 2k any more on first start.

Maybe i should reset the ecu again...

[YeMs]

clean AFM, if it makes a difference then u will probly find it will need to be replaced in a short time.

also cleaning the throttle body out will make a big difference. if you can find a AFM safe throttle body spray that always works wonders. we sell a WYNNS product at work, and when we are running an injector service through, we use the AFM and Throttle body spray cleaner. The car ALWAYS goes alot better, to the point customers return wondering wat the hell we did with the old car and were the new car came from.

[sidewz]

What is your idle from cold start?
And your idle when warm?
Should be 2000rpm cold, as you say, which drops to 1300rpm until the car warms up then drops again to around 800rpm.

Thats what it used to do.

Warm idle is about 800 or so, but it sometimes feels a bit too low. Maybe a bit rough.

Not sure about cold. I will ask the mrs to check in the morning, but I wouldnt hold my breath on a useful answer.

"Uhm, it started?? What more did you want?"

But it doesnt seem to kick up to 2k any more on first start.

Maybe i should reset the ecu again...

I take that back. I tested the startup on my way to work just now, and it did the usual 2k startup, then a 1300 idle as it was cold.

I will have to keep an eye on it, see what its doing when its warm.
Main thing is, its shitloads better than it was.

Cheers
Dave