aristo overheating

[MAGN1T]

How many times do you need to be told?

As for bubbles being "normal" ?
How many new cars do that?

Steve

[avinesh]

How many times do you need to be told?

As for bubbles being "normal" ?
How many new cars do that?

Steve

where did i mention air bubbles??? and how many times do i have to be told what??? that i have a blown head gaskit lmao dont you think its better to do the small things first then to rip apart the head and do the headgaskit and then find out it doesnt fix the problem?? not all of us have dollers piling up

[sergei]

shroud or no shroud it should not overheat any way on idle.
What is happening is either or all:
your head gasket is blown ( MAGN1T)
your block is full of rust that is being pushed into "clean" radiator and ultimately blocking it.

It is very common problem in NZ as kiwis just keep adding water to the cooling system, thinking that since there is no sub zero temperatures you don't need antifreeze (and/or being cheap asses).
It is a syndrome of "I'll sell it after a year" thing that average NZ car sees.

[avinesh]

shroud or no shroud it should not overheat any way on idle.
What is happening is either or all:
your head gasket is blown ( MAGN1T)
your block is full of rust that is being pushed into "clean" radiator and ultimately blocking it.

It is very common problem in NZ as kiwis just keep adding water to the cooling system, thinking that since there is no sub zero temperatures you don't need antifreeze (and/or being cheap asses).
It is a syndrome of "I'll sell it after a year" thing that average NZ car sees.

ohh i thought the shroud is very important in keeping things cool? its not normal idle by any means more like almost redlining while sitting on idle for about 2 to 3 minutes and then the heat just goes to middle or a little over middle....hasnt done it again though

[rollaholic]

its hardly surprising that the needle is pushing over half with that kind of treatment. its not designed to deal with the heat created by so many revs without some airflow over the radiator, particularly with the smaller radiator you fitted. why do you think so many cars shit themselves on the skid pad?

and you mentioned air bubbles in your very first post

if its sitting at half with normal usage i'm not sure why this topic is still going?

[avinesh]

its hardly surprising that the needle is pushing over half with that kind of treatment. its not designed to deal with the heat created by so many revs without some airflow over the radiator, particularly with the smaller radiator you fitted. why do you think so many cars shit themselves on the skid pad?

and you mentioned air bubbles in your very first post

if its sitting at half with normal usage i'm not sure why this topic is still going?

just thought id get some advice in what sort of aluminium radiator i should get as aristo ones are very hard to find, maybe supra one can be retro fitted?? ohh yea i did mention it in my first post, just thought he was talkin about my new post.

[the fallen303]

i think there is a writeup on aristo aussie forum about fitting a mk4 ali radiator, it's not as straight forward as one would like, but i think it can still be done.

[edwagon]

- Does the car overheat when actually driving?

- Have you replaced the thermostat? (very easy on these)
Def Replace it - could be jammed only slightly open, causing it to overheat under load.

- Have you bled the cooling system properly and made sure that the thermostat has opened? (feel hose temps as car warms from cold - top hose will get hot fairly quickly, bottom hose will stay stone cold while thermostat closed, then warm quite rapidly as thermostat opens - both hoses need to be hot when car at operating temp. If bottom hose stays cold then thermostat is jammed, or system not bled - if bottom hose warms up slowly with top hose, then thermostat jammed open)

- The shroud is very important

- Don't go alloy - you'd be better getting a rad shop to rod out your aristo rad and replace the top tank imho

- Don't sit there free revving it

[MAGN1T]

It's like a bunch of primary school kids. kids with no idea giving advice to other kids with no idea.

Your headgasket is leaking from the cylinder to the water jacket, that's what the bubbles are.
The exhaust gasses dissolve in the water that you keep adding.
That makes the coolant acidic.
So now you've got an electrolytic cell, one electrode being aluminium, the other iron, and a weak acid for electrolyte.
So the iron and aluminium corrode quickly, the leak gets worse and the radiator gets clogged up with sludge.

So what's the point in doing anything to the radiator? it's the bubbles that cause the corrosion / sludge, the corrosion makes the bubbles bigger.

Steve

[edwagon]

It's like a bunch of primary school kids. kids with no idea giving advice to other kids with no idea.

Your headgasket is leaking from the cylinder to the water jacket, that's what the bubbles are.
The exhaust gasses dissolve in the water that you keep adding.
That makes the coolant acidic.
So now you've got an electrolytic cell, one electrode being aluminium, the other iron, and a weak acid for electrolyte.
So the iron and aluminium corrode quickly, the leak gets worse and the radiator gets clogged up with sludge.

So what's the point in doing anything to the radiator? it's the bubbles that cause the corrosion / sludge, the corrosion makes the bubbles bigger.

Steve

Well its just as well we've got you here then, isn't it Steve

His TK came back negative and he now denies there are bubbles - so before you pull the head off it'd be negligent to not check the rad, thermostat, waterpump
You know, in case - shock horror - the headgasket isn't actually blown

Chances are it WILL be a headgasket too, especially now that it has been overheated two dozen times, but if he doesn't have the basics right, he'll just blow the new one anyway.

[avinesh]

i have overheated my supra many times as well....well over two dozen times and many of them were till the red mark and it still doesnt have a blown head gaskit and it produces 426kw at 22.5 psi, two of those times it overheated was when i was doing a burnout at meremere and the serpentine belt came off because of crappy after market pullies and many times when i was at full throttle, now the aristo being a stock car and only boosting 10psi makes me wonder how its more prone to blowing its head gaskit with far less power and the same engine??? i took it for some extensive test drives last night and to my understanding under boost (have raised it to 15psi now) it should overheat rather quickly if it has a blown headgaskit but im surprised it didnt even budge.....i have never driven this car as hard as i did last night just to see if it overheats and surely enough with the new radiator there was no overheating where as on the old radiator the car would overheat in the 2nd round you step on the accelerator, correct me if im wrong steve but wouldnt the headgaskit leak more under 15psi of boost and hard driving and cause the car to overheat and loose a bit of coolant because i just checked the coolant level right now and its to the max in both the reservoir and the radiator, my understanding is combustion leaking into the coolant would pressurize it, one making it over heat and two pushing the coolant out of the system especially under the harsh circumstances i put it under last night, you said the corrosion must be caused by the headgaskit but the car doesnt seem to have corrosion in the radiator, its more like small pebbles i think the previous owner put some stop leak init thinking there was a leak somewhere (radiator or headgaskit) but made things worse because the bloody things and clogging up the radiator now, i have done very extensive tk testing on it an have finished two bottles of the liquid so i probably hold the record for tk testing performed on a single car and had nothing come up even when i had bubbles appearing in the system, i basically did the test with the car revved up and bubbles appearing and nothing, did it on idle nothing, did it from cold to hot and still nothing even today nothing. Some conclusions from last night though, the car doesnt overheat with a smaller radiator and only one fan compared to two fans on the old radiator and this time it was under much much more stress which should have made the car overheat very quickly in case of a blown headgaskit because i know from past experience that headgaskits get worse not better if blown and under-boost they get happy and make your needle go to h very quickly.

[Dragger_Dan]

par·a·graph   /ˈpærəˌgræf, -ˌgrɑf/
[par-uh-graf, -grahf]

–noun
1. a distinct portion of written or printed matter dealing with a particular idea, usually beginning with an indentation on a new line.
2. a paragraph mark.
3. a note, item, or brief article, as in a newspaper.

–verb (used with object)
4. to divide into paragraphs.
5. to write or publish paragraphs about, as in a newspaper.
6. to express in a paragraph.

[rollaholic]

learning to ignore magn1t is the first step in the twelve step program

he does get it right sometimes, but if you call BHG on every overheating thread its bound to be the correct call occasionally.

kinda like the AA diagnosing every breakdown they cant jump start as faulty fuel pump

plus hes used to mitsis, where BHG is right more often than not

[RS13]

learning to ignore magn1t is the first step in the twelve step program

he does get it right sometimes, but if you call BHG on every overheating thread its bound to be the correct call occasionally.

kinda like the AA diagnosing every breakdown they cant jump start as faulty fuel pump

plus hes used to mitsis, where BHG is right more often than not

This.

Avinesh, sounds like you've got it sorted man, I've had the same symptoms in different cars several times before, and replacing/cleaning the radiator is the usual fix. Don't get wound up listening to what "magn1t" says, 9 times out of 10 he's completely wrong.. and the one time he gets it right is due to luck!

Btw, I agree about the stop leak additive for cooling systems, useless stuff.. wouldn't recommend it to anyone.

[tsoob]

par·a·graph   /ˈpærəˌgræf, -ˌgrɑf/
[par-uh-graf, -grahf]

–noun
1. a distinct portion of written or printed matter dealing with a particular idea, usually beginning with an indentation on a new line.
2. a paragraph mark.
3. a note, item, or brief article, as in a newspaper.

–verb (used with object)
4. to divide into paragraphs.
5. to write or publish paragraphs about, as in a newspaper.
6. to express in a paragraph.

+1

Dude please use some punctuation its really really hard to read.

[avinesh]

par·a·graph   /ˈpærəˌgræf, -ˌgrɑf/
[par-uh-graf, -grahf]

–noun
1. a distinct portion of written or printed matter dealing with a particular idea, usually beginning with an indentation on a new line.
2. a paragraph mark.
3. a note, item, or brief article, as in a newspaper.

–verb (used with object)
4. to divide into paragraphs.
5. to write or publish paragraphs about, as in a newspaper.
6. to express in a paragraph.

+1

Dude please use some punctuation its really really hard to read.

ha ha sorry guys didnt realise how long by post got ...hope everyone has a merry christmas

[cozmoid]

Grats on replacing a farked radiator.

Sounds like you got the run around a bit. That stop leak crap is horrible stuff and it will trap air bubbles in your coolant system and destroy a radiator easy, so don't worry about bubbles bro!
I would probably give it quite a few flushes to get the stop leak out though. You probably have already with all the work you have done but if you still see chunks then keep flushing it once a week till you find no more. The chunks find lots of nice places to hide in your coolant system.

Merry Christmas right back at ya!

[allencr]

The engine's coolant needs to flow through a radiator that has air flow, that's it, the pump needs its impeller intact and the radiator needs to be clean internally & externally.
Without having a load on it, other then the accessories, the engine shouldn't be producing too much heat for even the smallest radiator.

http://www.oldsmobility.com/old/overheating.htm
http://www.troubleshooters.com/toverheat.htm
http://www.radiator.com/radiator-articles.html

[MAGN1T]

i have overheated my supra many times as well....well over two dozen times and many of them were till the red mark and it still doesnt have a blown head gaskit and it produces 426kw at 22.5 psi, two of those times it overheated was when i was doing a burnout at meremere and the serpentine belt came off because of crappy after market pullies and many times when i was at full throttle, now the aristo being a stock car and only boosting 10psi makes me wonder how its more prone to blowing its head gaskit with far less power and the same engine??? i took it for some extensive test drives last night and to my understanding under boost (have raised it to 15psi now) it should overheat rather quickly if it has a blown headgaskit but im surprised it didnt even budge.....i have never driven this car as hard as i did last night just to see if it overheats and surely enough with the new radiator there was no overheating where as on the old radiator the car would overheat in the 2nd round you step on the accelerator, correct me if im wrong steve but wouldnt the headgaskit leak more under 15psi of boost and hard driving and cause the car to overheat and loose a bit of coolant because i just checked the coolant level right now and its to the max in both the reservoir and the radiator, my understanding is combustion leaking into the coolant would pressurize it, one making it over heat and two pushing the coolant out of the system especially under the harsh circumstances i put it under last night, you said the corrosion must be caused by the headgaskit but the car doesnt seem to have corrosion in the radiator, its more like small pebbles i think the previous owner put some stop leak init thinking there was a leak somewhere (radiator or headgaskit) but made things worse because the bloody things and clogging up the radiator now, i have done very extensive tk testing on it an have finished two bottles of the liquid so i probably hold the record for tk testing performed on a single car and had nothing come up even when i had bubbles appearing in the system, i basically did the test with the car revved up and bubbles appearing and nothing, did it on idle nothing, did it from cold to hot and still nothing even today nothing. Some conclusions from last night though, the car doesnt overheat with a smaller radiator and only one fan compared to two fans on the old radiator and this time it was under much much more stress which should have made the car overheat very quickly in case of a blown headgaskit because i know from past experience that headgaskits get worse not better if blown and under-boost they get happy and make your needle go to h very quickly.

The way to test it is to hook up a pressure gauge to your cooling system , go for a thrash and watch the reading. It should never exceed the cap pressure and shouldn't spike when you jump on the gas. Pressure should rise slowly from cold.
Changing parts by guesswork is only for car mechanics. Technicians test everything first.
Teekay tests are useless, they don't work. They're yet another modern day scam used on un suspecting customers to make mechanics look as though they know what they're doing.
Likewise giving references to shitter V8s from US of A that don't have turbos, nor aluminium heads and only make 1/2 HP per cu in.

Steve

[1hypo3]

Teekay testers have there place.

Do a cylinder leakage test if suspect blown head gasket.