Ignitor for 6cyl wasted spark setup?

[cat007]

rich. but need to get car to operating temp, before looking at the plugs is of any use.

another coil option.
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/ign6 ... p-430.html

or pick a part some mitsti v6 ones?

I'll have another go tomorrow - clean the plugs, get it up to operating temp and then see what the plugs look like.

Yeah I saw those ones the other day! Only problem is by the time they get here they're about the same price as the trademe ones and the trademe ones won't take 4 weeks to get here

[Py7h0n]

As I said mate - Looks like fueling to me not ignition.

Takes less than 5 minutes to pull some fuel out and see if it rev's cleanly? I think you may have varnish in your injectors. Got another set to try?

[cat007]

As I said mate - Looks like fueling to me not ignition.

Takes less than 5 minutes to pull some fuel out and see if it rev's cleanly? I think you may have varnish in your injectors. Got another set to try?

Nah I don't have another set to try

I'll ask SCONZ and see if there's someone who's got a set I can borrow.

[Py7h0n]

Either that or take them down to Petroject for a Clean and flow test - Only $10/injector from memory.

[cat007]

Either that or take them down to Petroject for a Clean and flow test - Only $10/injector from memory.

Hmm - I was going to pay them a visit and see what they can do for me in regards to coils - so I'll take my injectors down there too.

Cheers!

[MAGN1T]

Did a bit of playing with mitsi coils & igniter, they should really be used as a set. The mitsi coils are 1 and a bit ohms, the igniter doesn't have dwell control but has current limiting. So if there's no signal the current drops from 8 or so amps to 5 ish amps to stop them cooking. The ECU has a pull up resistor to turn on the igniter and ouputs an earth to fire the coils.
Maybe your igniter has been cooked by the coils?

Steve

[cat007]

Cheers for that Steve. I was tempted to buy this before, now I'm even more tempted haha:

http://www.enginemanagement.com.au/prod ... cts_id=132

Maybe I should bite the bullet and get that with a nice set of Bosch or B&W coils and then I'll be set....?

[cat007]

Further to this - do you know how I can test the ignitor and see if it is actually faulty?

The 7M coils I'm using have a resistance of 0.4ohms which is withing their range of 0.3-0.5ohms. Would this low resistance have damaged the ignitor perhaps?

[cat007]

Can you test the spark on a coil without an ignitor?

[QikStarlie]

if your fast, like 3ms fast. as i said early ignitor just grounds the coil.

could just wire a toyota ignitor onto one of the channels, if you have one hanging about. and then compare spark to the rest

[cat007]

if your fast, like 3ms fast. as i said early ignitor just grounds the coil.

could just wire a toyota ignitor onto one of the channels, if you have one hanging about. and then compare spark to the rest

I've tested with another ignitor the same as what I was using and no difference so yeah thinking the coils are just old and crap. Would tapping the earth against something work? Would it damage the coils if it were too long?

[cat007]

Ok so although a little off topic, I'll post here anyway.

Replaced the fuel with another lot of fresh stuff. Checked and cleaned plugs (which were already pretty new). Checked cam and ignition timing. Did some data logs and here's the results:





If you can get the revs up to above 3,000 rpm you're doing well - and you can hold it there and it seems fine with minimal misses, but if you floor it, the revs don't increase and in fact sometimes they'll go down! To the point where it sounds like some sort of launch control and the turbo starts to spool, slowly.

[QikStarlie]

only had a quick look. but to start with is your tps spanning correct? log says you got up to 4000rpm and tps still reading zero

has car actually been tuned on this ecu before?

[cat007]

Hey sorry I just edited my post and changed it to the graph layout. Probably shouldn't have...

I'll put them back up now....

[cat007]

Here's an Excel file of the log:

https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B_G575 ... y=CPSki-UC

Oh and yeah the car was tuned for this ECU. Nothing has really changed. Same intake, same intercooler plumbing, same manifolds, turbo, plugs, injectors. Everything is the same.

[QikStarlie]

is that the actual afr? as in wideband on that graph? if so its way rich and thats why i wont rev. cant see anything obvious in the logs that would be the cause tho. bad water temp signal could do it, but looks fine

[cat007]

Maybe the injectors are leaking causing it to run so rich? I tried taking out heaps of fuel and various stages of the map and that actually kills it - seems to lean out too much.

I'll take my injectors to be cleaned and tested. Maybe the old fuel buggered them up some how....

The AFR's 'might' be right. I'm still having issues with the useless LC1 and it giving erratic readings. I think when it goes super rich, it's when the LC1 is fu**ing out - althought when it does that the stinger software reads AFR as 8.0 where-as in those graphs it seems to be sitting around the 10 region.

[QikStarlie]

yeh innovate stuff will throw and error, at some point when it goes too rich. they don't like much below 10:1

[cat007]

Here's another chart - it does seem to be insanely rich! The pulsing TPS at about 1/4 way through was me trying to get the thing to rev up as if I held the throttle open a bit it would just bog and die...

[QikStarlie]

is that inj duty at bottom x 10?
looks like something has gone wrong with the tune, rather than anything mechanical. havent delt with the ecu your using before. but you should have some kinda masterfuel /req fuel etc.. that scales the whole fuel map. drop that 30-50%and see what happens

there might some other settings that will have done it. like how many times injectors are fired per cycle etc..