Toyspeed.org.nz Message Board

by **tsoob** » Fri Mar 04, 2011 8:54 pm

I have had to remove my turbo again, and have removed it around 4 times in the last year, I find that the steel studs and bolts that I use get rusted and become a bit of a c@$t to remove

What other options do I have?

by **fivebob** » Fri Mar 04, 2011 9:45 pm

Just coat them with anti-seize or copper coat, that come apart much easier that way.

by **Adoom** » Fri Mar 04, 2011 10:09 pm

I have brass nuts..... :lol:

by **RS13** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 12:18 am

We use the pure nickel "Never Seez" on nuts/fasteners on the hot section of gas turbines, really good stuff. Or just copper-coat as was said above. Both are very, very bad for you so wear gloves when using though.

by **levinguy** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 1:03 am

copper coat plus new studs + nuts. shouldnt have a problem? go to the gym?

no grip · by **Akane** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 11:26 am

I've used the stud/nut combo and all I get is loose nuts falling off and all that kinda bullshit.

Changed them to Allen head bolts for the downpipe and allen head countersink for the adapter, worked a treat, pity turbo to adapter still has to be used with nut and bolt since there's no room there.

by **matt dunn** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 2:34 pm

Akane wrote:I've used the stud/nut combo and all I get is loose nuts falling off and all that kinda bullshit.

Same, i had more problems with them coming loose while in use.

took me ages to get it so i didn't need to check/tighten them each race.

i would rather have them tight than not.

by **tsoob** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 3:53 pm

yep my problem is that they are a pain in the ass to get to, they are siezing, and we used copper last time..

The size of them is a challenge particually the ones on the wastegate, as you cant get a 12mm socket on them.

Also the studs with nuts that the turbo bolts to the manifold have come loose, and i have even lost one of the nuts completley.

what about stainless bolts? will they be more resistant to rusting?

by **matt dunn** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 5:01 pm

Lol, out of all the nuts and bolts that hold my manifold and turbo on there is on 2 that you can get a socket onto,
and about 3 that you can't get to with a ring ring spanner
and even a couple that you cant get to with an open ended spanner properly.

It really depends on the quality of the nuts and bolts.

I tried all sorts of aftermarket types and ended up with Genuine Toyota Parts

Toyota double length nuts
909170-10035

and I dont have the part number for the studs with me.

no grip · by **Akane** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 5:01 pm

It's not so much the rusting, it's the heat cycles it goes through, it stretches them out and when it cools it shrinks back, do this on a daily basis and they just don't like it.

This is what I use, and they don't round themselves out when you put a big booty allen key on it, never had one snapped on me (powerbar + allen key lol).

by **tsoob** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 6:10 pm

yeah i was thinking that allen keys may be the way to go... be nice if i could get a ratcheting allen key..

by **Adoom** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 9:18 pm

tsoob wrote:yeah i was thinking that allen keys may be the way to go... be nice if i could get a ratcheting allen key..

Errrr, you can.

You can get allen key "sockets" for ratchets.... different lengths even.

by **tsoob** » Sat Mar 05, 2011 11:46 pm

Adoom wrote:
tsoob wrote:yeah i was thinking that allen keys may be the way to go... be nice if i could get a ratcheting allen key..

Errrr, you can.
You can get allen key "sockets" for ratchets.... different lengths even.

I have those.... I mean a ratcheting allen key.

The problem is that a socket wont fit in the gap remember....

Website · by **Bling** » Sun Mar 06, 2011 12:19 am

Ratchet spanner with a short length of allen key, enough to go into bolt/spanner, sorted :lol:

by **Mr Ree** » Sun Mar 06, 2011 9:52 am

Hi Tsoob.

If you have a marine shop nearby, pop in with your 1 of each nut/bolt that you need and match it up with some of the love stainless items they have in stock.

No more rust and great quality parts.

P.S As above ^ I use a ratchet spanner and an allen key "bit" to get my WG bolts out as I have about as much room as it sounds like you have.

by **Bazda** » Sun Mar 06, 2011 10:05 pm

One of my dads mates figured out a good combo on his 700hp bmw targa/circuit car. I think he used alloy studs, and stainless nuts.

I will have to ask him next time I see him, I could be wrong about alloy but it def was 2 diff types of metals, one to expand faster than the other to make better contact.

On mine I use M12x1.25 studs and nuts off a Mitsi Evo. Cant remember which part of the exhaust its off.
M12 is an overkill but def does the trick as i've been using the same bolts/studs for over 3 years now.

by **tim_blair** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 5:37 pm

copper coat or simalar metal based anti seize for heat resistant

stainless is realy good for corrosion resistance

i use "cone lock" or "con loc" nuts on myn to stop them from comming loose

or double nut if there is room

by **Bazda** » Mon Mar 07, 2011 6:43 pm

Snore lock washers are the best

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