20v idles again... ECU related?

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20v idles again... ECU related?

Postby andrewgreen1000 » Sat Mar 26, 2011 11:35 am

So I put my new sard ecu, and it seems pretty good!


But now I have an Idle problem, which I didn't with my old ecu, cold Idle seems fine, maybe a bit low with about 1500RPM.

But when it warms up it tries to idle at around 400rpm, and the whole car shakes. Sometimes dips a bit lower (350ish) then comes back up to 400. after sitting at the lights for a little while it will come back up to about 900, but not often.

Would this be The new ECU? or another problem? ISCV, I sprayed a whole bunch of carby cleaner into it about 2 months ago when it was hunting for idle, and it seemed fine.

I checked for codes and got code 21 Oxygen sensor, which I kinda expected for how old the car is. This wouldn't effect it would it?

I've had a look around at the vaccuum hoses, and all seem pretty good, don't look perished etc. and nothing changed yesterday except for the ECU and I put some petrol in it (98).

Do you guys think its a broken ecu? I hope not, I don't really want to have to send it back to the guy and tell him its faulty. Other than idle it seems pretty good!
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Postby Mr Revhead » Sat Mar 26, 2011 1:21 pm

Check the timing, SARD ecus alter it quite a bit.
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Postby RS13 » Sat Mar 26, 2011 5:55 pm

FWIW, my AE101 ran better with the O2 sensor unplugged.
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Postby sergei » Sat Mar 26, 2011 11:40 pm

RS13 wrote:FWIW, my AE101 ran better with the O2 sensor unplugged.


because it was most likely stuffed.
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Postby lee90 » Sun Mar 27, 2011 9:49 am

ther are many causes ecu,timing,air,
but sard ecu seem to go for one thing mid mod on the engine.
if no mod don't put sard ecu.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Sun Mar 27, 2011 10:23 am

SARD ecu made massive improvements on my stock 20v.
They would also have done ECU's for modded engines as they are reflashable
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Postby andrewgreen1000 » Sun Mar 27, 2011 3:12 pm

Yeah its definitely the ecu. The guy i bought it off said this had happened to him before, and he had got it repaired as there was a broken solder joint, and that fixed it. As I am not a pro electrical wizz, is there anyone in particular I should be taking it to? or anyone on here which is good with these kind of things, who could fix it for me for cheep, seeing as i spent all my money (and some "Transport" course related costs) on the ECU.

BTW I agree with Revhead, stock and slightly modded (like me) still get gains from the sard ECU.
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Postby Bling » Sun Mar 27, 2011 3:36 pm

You could talk to Matt Dunn, tis good with electronics
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Postby MAGN1T » Sun Mar 27, 2011 9:49 pm

It's a waste of time looking for new faults when you've got existing ones that you couldn't be bothered fixing.

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Postby Dell'Orto » Sun Mar 27, 2011 9:49 pm

wat
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Postby Alex B » Sun Mar 27, 2011 9:56 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:wat


You know what. Teh master has spoken.
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Postby Mr Revhead » Sun Mar 27, 2011 10:49 pm

MAGN1T wrote:It's a waste of time looking for new faults when you've got existing ones that you couldn't be bothered fixing.

Steve


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Postby Bling » Sun Mar 27, 2011 11:00 pm

Just me that thinks he might be referring to the engine code saying dud o2 sensor?

But priority is to fix the new ecu?

Question is, does the engine bring up the same code with factory ecu in place?
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Postby Boost_4_Life » Mon Mar 28, 2011 11:24 am

can you still buy these sard ecu's? how much are they?
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Postby RS13 » Mon Mar 28, 2011 4:28 pm

sergei wrote:
RS13 wrote:FWIW, my AE101 ran better with the O2 sensor unplugged.


because it was most likely stuffed.


Oh yeah, without a doubt. But unplugging it is a whole lot cheaper than a couple of hundred for a new sensor. :)
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Postby sergei » Mon Mar 28, 2011 5:52 pm

RS13 wrote:
sergei wrote:
RS13 wrote:FWIW, my AE101 ran better with the O2 sensor unplugged.


because it was most likely stuffed.


Oh yeah, without a doubt. But unplugging it is a whole lot cheaper than a couple of hundred for a new sensor. :)


Tried blow torch on it?
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Postby DUGDUG » Mon Mar 28, 2011 5:53 pm

sergei wrote:
RS13 wrote:
sergei wrote:
RS13 wrote:FWIW, my AE101 ran better with the O2 sensor unplugged.


because it was most likely stuffed.


Oh yeah, without a doubt. But unplugging it is a whole lot cheaper than a couple of hundred for a new sensor. :)


Tried blow torch on it?


It does work for a while until it gets all carboned up again.
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