Coolant

The place for all technical car discussions. If you haven't already, read our Disclaimer first!

Moderator: The Mod Squad

Coolant

Postby BZG Wagon » Sat Apr 23, 2011 1:22 am

Do the brands differ? Or can I replace with any ol' red coolant in my GTT (vs. running down to my local toyota dealership - if they stock it)?

I hear the corosion inhibiters break down after a while - is this correct? If so how often are you suppose to flush your coolant?

Oh and is it worth running some sort of radiator flush through the system?
User avatar
BZG Wagon
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1573
Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2004 10:28 pm
Location: Waitakere City, Auckland.

Postby YeMs » Sat Apr 23, 2011 8:12 am

the red coolant is good for 100,00ks. as a rule of thumb i always put in what came out. We flush green coolant systems every 40,000ks. We also use a WYNNS Flush and sealant pack with every flush and a flush machine to flush the coolant out. as for brand, i think generally middle-of-the-road price wise is fine. i dont think you need real expencive stuff for a daily, different if it were in a race car that goes through much more extreme heat cycles. and remember to mix it according to the instructions which is usually about 50/50. a stronger mix can do more damage than good.
Your local Hybrid Elite tech

Project - 93 jzx90 - 3uz ITBs, currently buying lotto tickets to fund manual conversion.
YeMs
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1531
Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2003 4:03 pm
Location: Tauranga

Postby fuel » Sat Apr 23, 2011 10:05 am

Nulon is good, you can get it in both red or green coolant at Supercheap. They say it lasts 4/5 years or 250,000kms or something like that, but I change my coolant every 2-3 years regardless of the kms travelled.
LOUD NOISES!!!
User avatar
fuel
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1532
Joined: Sun Jan 25, 2004 1:59 pm
Location: Brisbane Australia

Postby Mr Revhead » Sat Apr 23, 2011 10:21 am

Just make sure you read the labels. Colour is not always an indication of the type.
Being the subject of E-whinges since 2004 8)

http://www.centralmotorsport.org.nz/home

Image
User avatar
Mr Revhead
SECURITY!
 
Posts: 24635
Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2004 4:06 pm
Location: Nelson

Postby Dell'Orto » Sat Apr 23, 2011 10:35 am

Prestone stuff mixes with the majority of coolants out there, red or green.
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
User avatar
Dell'Orto
** Moderator **
 
Posts: 17494
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 5:07 am
Location: Straight out the ghetto, Lower Hutt

Postby Mr Ree » Sat Apr 23, 2011 10:50 am

Just stick to good old toyota red. Its designed for your motor, and its whats currrently in your motor so its the best choice considering it will last the next 6 years or so.
User avatar
Mr Ree
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 2758
Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2010 6:51 pm
Location: On the South coast where the tui's sing tututu.

Postby BZG Wagon » Sat Apr 23, 2011 12:43 pm

Thanks for the info.

I think I'll go for this stuff: http://www.nulon.co.nz/products/Red_Long_Life_Concentrated_Coolant/

It's $30 from Supercheap vs. $60 for Toyota Super Long Life Coolant (pink - apparently. Also premixed to make it an even worse deal), which Toyota recomended.
User avatar
BZG Wagon
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1573
Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2004 10:28 pm
Location: Waitakere City, Auckland.

Postby Akane » Sat Apr 23, 2011 6:35 pm

I had toyota red in the system on one of my other car, didn't flush all out, put in green stuff. bad ending.
No "stance", no "hellaflush", none of that bullshit. Nothing but no grip on full boost.
http://www.lol.co.nz/ random shit.
User avatar
Akane
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 4073
Joined: Tue May 14, 2002 2:08 am
Location: Auckland

Postby solitaire » Sun Apr 24, 2011 1:14 am

where do you get such a huge amount of deminarlised water if you are going with concentrate?
AE92, KZJ120, KDJ120
User avatar
solitaire
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 3371
Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2006 9:06 am
Location: Orewa, Auckland

Postby Bling » Sun Apr 24, 2011 1:22 am

You mean from the tap is no good? :lol: :lol: :lol:
User avatar
Bling
** Moderator **
 
Posts: 15990
Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2003 9:02 pm
Location: Quake City

Postby Makaveli » Sun Apr 24, 2011 9:05 am

From a Lexus/Toyota workshop manual:

"Use of improper coolants may damage the engine cooling system.
 Only use Toyota Super Long Life Coolant or similar high quality ethlene glycol based non-silicate,
non-amine, non-nitrite, and non-borate coolant with long-life hybrid organic acid technology (coolant
with long-life hybrid organic acid technology consists of a combination of low phosphates and organic
acids).
 New Toyota vehicles are filled with Toyota Super Long Life Coolant. When replacing the coolant, Toyota
Super Long Life Coolant (color is pink, premixed ethyleneglycol concentration is approximately 50
% and freezing temperature is -35°C (-31°F)) is recommended."

You can buy distilled water from Supercheap Auto, I think they come in 4L packs? Which makes 8L of coolant.
User avatar
Makaveli
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 297
Joined: Mon Jan 22, 2007 4:50 pm
Location: Auckland

Postby Rob » Sun Apr 24, 2011 9:21 am

I just looked at this:

http://newcarbuyingguide.com/index.php/ ... event=view

and it seems pretty good
1990 ST185H - project
1996 VS Acclaim wagon
User avatar
Rob
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 633
Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 2:29 pm
Location: Gulf Harbour

Postby RomanV » Sun Apr 24, 2011 11:57 am

Makaveli wrote:non-borate coolant


Image
User avatar
RomanV
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 4915
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 12:17 am
Location: West Auckland

Postby BZG Wagon » Sun Apr 24, 2011 12:36 pm

My car's 13-ish years old, so I'm not sure whether switching from Red (LL) to Pink (SLL) is the way to go.

The Nulon anitifreeze says it's 'silicate, borate, phosphate, nitrate & amine free' so I don't see how it'll be any different (better or worse) than Toyota LL.
I have always used Toyota Genuine Parts - but I can't see any benefit in spending more for TGP radiator fluid in this situation.

solitaire wrote:where do you get such a huge amount of deminarlised water if you are going with concentrate?

Straight out of the dehumidifer... :lol:
User avatar
BZG Wagon
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1573
Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2004 10:28 pm
Location: Waitakere City, Auckland.

Postby solitaire » Sun Apr 24, 2011 12:38 pm

BZG Wagon wrote:My car's 13-ish years old, so I'm not sure whether switching from Red (LL) to Pink (SLL) is the way to go.

The Nulon anitifreeze says it's 'silicate, borate, phosphate, nitrate & amine free' so I don't see how it'll be any different (better or worse) than Toyota LL.

I have always used Toyota Genuine Parts - but I can't see any benefit in spending more in this case for TGP radiator fluid.

solitaire wrote:where do you get such a huge amount of deminarlised water if you are going with concentrate?

Straight out of the dehumidifer... :lol:

Pardon my ignorance but is that serious? i have 2 dehumidifiers doing nothing and the air in my garage is moist as on accoutn of the wet clay in the unconcreted portion of my garage, could i just start the dehumifiers going and collect?
AE92, KZJ120, KDJ120
User avatar
solitaire
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 3371
Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2006 9:06 am
Location: Orewa, Auckland

Postby BZG Wagon » Sun Apr 24, 2011 8:58 pm

I used dehumidifier water in previous cars I've owned - I don't see why it would be a bad thing. Essentially it's gone through the same process of distilling - it's just not purified (so there might be dust, bacteria etc in it).

I supposed you could check the PH to make sure it's neutral? Any chemists out there wanting to share their opinion?

I'll be buying distilled water for my GTT though.
User avatar
BZG Wagon
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1573
Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2004 10:28 pm
Location: Waitakere City, Auckland.

Postby Mr Revhead » Sun Apr 24, 2011 9:00 pm

Never heard of distilled water for coolant. I wouldn't be bothering with that tbh
Being the subject of E-whinges since 2004 8)

http://www.centralmotorsport.org.nz/home

Image
User avatar
Mr Revhead
SECURITY!
 
Posts: 24635
Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2004 4:06 pm
Location: Nelson

Postby iOnic » Sun Apr 24, 2011 9:06 pm

Mr Revhead wrote:Never heard of distilled water for coolant. I wouldn't be bothering with that tbh


Gimmick to rope in pedantic worrying types. Never seen/heard of a workshop (Toyota included) using anything but tap water.

In theory, yes distilled water is better - in practice, good luck noticing any difference.
Faber est suae quisque fortunae
2009 Mazda3 MPS
2016 CFMoto 650NKs
2013 Hyundai IX35 Highlander
User avatar
iOnic
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 3736
Joined: Fri Jun 25, 2004 6:31 pm
Location: Melbourne VIC

Postby solitaire » Sun Apr 24, 2011 9:08 pm

iOnic wrote:
Mr Revhead wrote:Never heard of distilled water for coolant. I wouldn't be bothering with that tbh


Gimmick to rope in pedantic worrying types. Never seen/heard of a workshop (Toyota included) using anything but tap water.


That would be me :D

glad to hear this stuff... i have enough things to spend money on as it is, babies are expensive...
AE92, KZJ120, KDJ120
User avatar
solitaire
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 3371
Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2006 9:06 am
Location: Orewa, Auckland

Postby BZG Wagon » Sun Apr 24, 2011 9:27 pm

Meh - coolant manufacturers recommend using demineralised water. Auckland water is sh*t - even I don't like having it inside me so why chuck it in my car.

Workshops cut corners and work to the minimum standard to get the job done as quick and cheaply as possible - even Toyota (especially Toyota from my experience). Mechanics I know generally apply a double standard ayway when working on their cars vs. customers cars.

Call me pedantic but I don't mind taking a bit of extra care.
User avatar
BZG Wagon
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1573
Joined: Tue Oct 26, 2004 10:28 pm
Location: Waitakere City, Auckland.

Next

Return to Tech Questions

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 7 guests