Price check for Battery relocation kits

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Postby gt4dude » Thu Jun 02, 2011 10:44 pm

Anyone ever wonder if, Because standard Toyota alternators are about 80 - 90 amps, So technically there shouldn't be much more than say 100 amps draw, that would mean the alternator is on its knees and power is coming from the battery to help supply an unusually heavy demand.

So if you used a 200 amp fuse, well the battery alone wouldn't really have that sort of power on it's own would it? so technically it would never serve it's purpose, now if you used a 100 amp fuse would you not risk it blowing out while driving causing a potential danger if for example overtaking?

Would it perhaps be best to run no fuse, but to take an extra percaution like using corrugated plastic wrap around your positive wire?
セリカGT-FOUR ST205 中期型 (Chuuki)
GT2860RS ・ JE 86.5φ PISTON ・ FX400 CLUTCH ・ APEX P-FC
200AWKW / 370NM
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Postby Scotty » Fri Jun 03, 2011 12:32 am

The battery would be able to give out over 200a if the cable/spanner was capable of carrying it. The starter motors would draw 100a+.
You should alway fuse cables especially if the cable is carrying a lot of current, the cable should also be fused for the potental current it could carry not how much you think could be drawn through it.
Here is a table made by DeeCee to work out what size fuse you could need
Image
Last edited by Scotty on Fri Jun 03, 2011 12:43 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Malcolm » Fri Jun 03, 2011 12:35 am

Thread dredge!

Batteries can crank out a lot more than 100 amps, but wont under normal operating conditions because the system voltage is greater than the cell voltage. However, under cranking conditions it's not uncommon to have a pretty heavy draw - I blew the 150 amp fuse on my Celica once when starting (starter motor was a bit buggered though, which didn't help).

There's virtually no risk of the fuse blowing under normal driving as you'll never see that kind of current heading toward the battery, and if you did, the battery being cut out of the circuit wouldn't stop the car at all (but your alternator may not survive long I believe).

It's not worth the risk of omitting a fuse from the system (esp. at the battery end). You never know when chafing in a spot you can't see or a minor accident could short the cable and your baby could go up in flames.
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Postby gt4dude » Fri Jun 03, 2011 1:13 pm

Ok, So 200 is good? or 150? or what about an audio circuit breaker switch from Jaycar?
セリカGT-FOUR ST205 中期型 (Chuuki)
GT2860RS ・ JE 86.5φ PISTON ・ FX400 CLUTCH ・ APEX P-FC
200AWKW / 370NM
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Postby MrOizo » Fri Jun 03, 2011 1:39 pm

gt4dude wrote:Ok, So 200 is good? or 150? or what about an audio circuit breaker switch from Jaycar?


I had a 200A circuit breaker on my setup next to the battery and i had a weird problem with the lights flickering constantly. There was quite a bit of a loss over the breaker and i think that was confusing the alternator to up the voltage and then when it was up, dropping it and then upping it again.

When i changed to a 250A ANL(?) fuse it solved all the problems of the lights flickering. its there only to prevent a short so all good.
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