proposed 20v RWD water cooling setup...will it work??

[NOLAW]

Can someone tell me if this will work

im planning to change the setup on my 20v head to suit RWD, this is what im thinking of doing.

water will enter the engine from the radiator through the back of factory waterpump, and im thinking of getting rid of the water/sensor/heater block that runs factory on the 20vs at the back and replacing it with a smaller unit to reduce firewall clearance problems, i was then going to have a outlet to the radiator made that will also house the thermostat, this will be placed on the port pictured below, as for the factory outlet on the exhaust side, that will be capped off....will this setup work guys?

heres a pic of where the radiator outlet is proposed to go, housing the thermostat also

[Rick]

Here is some ideas for ya:

http://s-86.com/s-newcoolingguide.html

http://www.technotoytuning.com/productdetail.php?p=781

http://www.rschita.jp/5valve_mizumawari.htm

[XSVWGN]

guys do it all the time in club4ag.com. Maybe jump on there and have a look


Matt

[AE25]

some diagrams (yes they're awesome) for variations of rwd 20v water cooling configurations

http://www.toycrazy.net/tech/rwd20v.html

what you describe will work.
Just remember the back of the 20v overhangs the block by something like 18mm. so take that off the clearance you had with the 16v, then take off the thickness of the water blanking plate and bolt heads. Assuming this is for your ke20, it may be better for firewall clearance ( just under heater protrusion) to weld the holes shut and drill/grind a water passage at the rear of 20v head to connect back to the inlet side passage. This has been detailed in the club4ag.com forum in tech section - 20v. and could use the original radiator outlet port to feed your ke2 heater and connect it back in just before the water pump inlet. (theres just enough room above bellhousing and below head for a steel pipe connection back to inlet side.

rather than use the rwd bits (if you don't already have them). have you considered using a fwd ae92 remote thermostat mounted under the intake manifold? in conjunction with joining the water channels at the back of the 20v head and making water outlet at the front of head. can use 16v or 20v water pump (with the matching backing plate) for the thermostat to feed into. has room for fwd alternator and fwd alt mount too. cheaper and easier to source parts etc than the genuine rwd water system.
ps, if not using the original 20v water pump, the 20v timing belt cover has a mismatch. 20v water pump can be used with 16v backing plate if you either turn clearance into the plate for the impellor or trim the 20v impellor blades.

[stolic]

I remade the water lines on Stalkers levin, so that they went behind the engine and came forward under the intake side. mod'ed the factory thermostat housing so it could be rotated 180 deg, and used a tight U bend on the exhaust side water inlet/outlet. all tucks in under the dizzy ( tho he has a sectioned firewall which did help a little ) and the only sacrifice was blocking off the heater lines on the rear water housing. I'll see if he can add some pics to his project thread if you're interested.
Your Idea seems like it should work well tho, I would have liked to do something similar but we had pleanty of clearence with the firewall, and couldn't be arsed with too much fab work

[AE25]

the joys of working with the ae86/ke70 chassis eh. no such firewall clearance in a ke2#.

this is the pic from stolic's ta22 16v 4agte water system with ae92 remote thermostat. The difference with 20v is the custom water outlet at the top and a rubber hose straight off the back of the water pump backing plate.

[stolic]

^ just made another one of those for Stalkers 7age.. such a simple kit to whack together. 16v FTW lol

NOLAW... how much room do you have between the head and the firewall? and are you planning on running a heater?
I have a spare 20v somewhere in the garage and I might see what you can squeeze in for your setup if you like.

[Sam-Q]

your idea will work fine so long as you have enough flow between the two ports at the back of the engine. As AE25 wisely said if your desperate you can modify the head itself and just use a plate. The plates I use are 25mm thick and on special request I can use countersunk bolts so it's dead flat. Let us know how much room you have at the back. So keeping the heater?

As said earlier you can run an external thermostat which easy, cheap and reliable or there are a few more advanced options such as using the rwd pump housing.