uzz30 soarer gearbox change, standered auto

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uzz30 soarer gearbox change, standered auto

Postby headshotnz » Tue Jul 19, 2011 2:57 am

Hey every one, whats the level of diffuculty?

Can you drop the gearbox down the bottom using a hoist as such.

Has any one done this before?

Also how much oil will the gearbox need.

Cheers

James
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Postby edwagon » Tue Jul 19, 2011 10:50 am

Have done this many times
Top bellhousing bolts are the only tricky bit - need to undo gearbox mount and lower the rear of the trans to tilt it back, and use several long extensions to reach up to the bolts - you will need ~3 feet of extensions.

Other than that, the converter bolts are easy and there is plenty of room - shouldn't take long
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Postby Quint » Tue Jul 19, 2011 11:31 am

edwagon wrote:Top bellhousing bolts are the only tricky bit - need to undo gearbox mount and lower the rear of the trans to tilt it back, and use several long extensions to reach up to the bolts - you will need ~3 feet of extensions.

I lay on top of the engine and reach down the fire wall with a spanner, do the top two + top start motor bolt.

many ways to skin a cat.
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Postby Jonno2002 » Tue Jul 19, 2011 1:25 pm

lol heres method 3 the easiest of the lot, flex sockets:

Image

these should be called the best god dam tool ever invented!

autos are the easiest cause they drop strait out, no spline to worry about, just REMEMBER to take the flex plate bolts out through the oval access panel at the back of the sump.
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Postby XSVWGN » Tue Jul 19, 2011 4:23 pm

about time you changed this gearbox!!!


Matt
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Postby holden_fan2005 » Wed Jul 20, 2011 8:29 pm

I played around with the one in my soarer and it wasn't too bad once you sus out those top bolts as above.

Truth be told I found it easier putting it back in than removing it! :lol:
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Postby Lloyd » Wed Jul 20, 2011 11:06 pm

Jonno2002 wrote:lol heres method 3 the easiest of the lot, flex sockets:

Image

these should be called the best god dam tool ever invented!

autos are the easiest cause they drop strait out, no spline to worry about, just REMEMBER to take the flex plate bolts out through the oval access panel at the back of the sump.


Those things are horrible, terrible for transferring any decent amount of torque.

Buy a set of wobbly ended extensions. Usually come as 3 or 4 different lengths and perfect for just about any bellhousing bolts. 1/2" and 3/8" . Put the short ones at the bellhousing end and you can get the top bolts and swing the bar from under vehicle. 4 extensions gives you 60 degrees to work with. And they don't break like universals do



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Postby headshotnz » Thu Jul 21, 2011 4:12 pm

Cheers every one, will be a big help :) gearbox change will be hopefully be this week next week, i have to buy a new trans filter, tourqe converter seal and pane seal then were away laughing.

@matt, tell me about it bro.

Also. decat shall be done in the process :)
Current: UCF20 NZ New LS400,

(Current project) Gen II SW20 Turbo (MR2 v0.5Beta currently in the works)

Previous: Ae101 trueno (S/S), ST185 Group A, Accord with adjustables and H22a certed. SW20 (ct20b, blitz ecu) Uzz30, ae101 s/s 20v c56(-04c;) ) lsd, ae100 beast 5afe(for maximum horsepowers)
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Postby headshotnz » Tue Aug 09, 2011 9:30 pm

Pulling gearbox out now as we speak. :) Also car sounds good with no exhaust
Current: UCF20 NZ New LS400,

(Current project) Gen II SW20 Turbo (MR2 v0.5Beta currently in the works)

Previous: Ae101 trueno (S/S), ST185 Group A, Accord with adjustables and H22a certed. SW20 (ct20b, blitz ecu) Uzz30, ae101 s/s 20v c56(-04c;) ) lsd, ae100 beast 5afe(for maximum horsepowers)
headshotnz
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Postby headshotnz » Tue Aug 09, 2011 10:07 pm

Quint wrote:
edwagon wrote:Top bellhousing bolts are the only tricky bit - need to undo gearbox mount and lower the rear of the trans to tilt it back, and use several long extensions to reach up to the bolts - you will need ~3 feet of extensions.

I lay on top of the engine and reach down the fire wall with a spanner, do the top two + top start motor bolt.

many ways to skin a cat.


I cant even feel them from up the top?
Current: UCF20 NZ New LS400,

(Current project) Gen II SW20 Turbo (MR2 v0.5Beta currently in the works)

Previous: Ae101 trueno (S/S), ST185 Group A, Accord with adjustables and H22a certed. SW20 (ct20b, blitz ecu) Uzz30, ae101 s/s 20v c56(-04c;) ) lsd, ae100 beast 5afe(for maximum horsepowers)
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Postby headshotnz » Tue Aug 09, 2011 10:07 pm

edwagon wrote:Have done this many times
Top bellhousing bolts are the only tricky bit - need to undo gearbox mount and lower the rear of the trans to tilt it back, and use several long extensions to reach up to the bolts - you will need ~3 feet of extensions.

Other than that, the converter bolts are easy and there is plenty of room - shouldn't take long


Pending, pending. Cheers mate, very much appreciated!!
Current: UCF20 NZ New LS400,

(Current project) Gen II SW20 Turbo (MR2 v0.5Beta currently in the works)

Previous: Ae101 trueno (S/S), ST185 Group A, Accord with adjustables and H22a certed. SW20 (ct20b, blitz ecu) Uzz30, ae101 s/s 20v c56(-04c;) ) lsd, ae100 beast 5afe(for maximum horsepowers)
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