GT4

[FST4RD]

If I was going to buy a GT4 i would buy this one
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-ca ... 383564.htm

Would like to know what the $7500 engine spend covered, especially given it looks 100% bone stock under the hood.

Maybe that was similar to the "reconditioned" engine my first car had listed in the advert. Their view of reconditioning was changing the oil at least every 20,000kms...

I wouldn't pay that much for it... but I love it.
$7500 if he took it to Toyota and got them to do a full rebuild with everything new?

[sergei]

If I was going to buy a GT4 i would buy this one
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-ca ... 383564.htm

Would like to know what the $7500 engine spend covered, especially given it looks 100% bone stock under the hood.

Maybe that was similar to the "reconditioned" engine my first car had listed in the advert. Their view of reconditioning was changing the oil at least every 20,000kms...

I wouldn't pay that much for it... but I love it.
$7500 if he took it to Toyota and got them to do a full rebuild with everything new?

Brand new shortblock is about that price, no need to "rebuild".

[dnalunchie]

If I was going to buy a GT4 i would buy this one
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-ca ... 383564.htm

Would like to know what the $7500 engine spend covered, especially given it looks 100% bone stock under the hood.

Maybe that was similar to the "reconditioned" engine my first car had listed in the advert. Their view of reconditioning was changing the oil at least every 20,000kms...

I wouldn't pay that much for it... but I love it.
$7500 if he took it to Toyota and got them to do a full rebuild with everything new?

Brand new shortblock is about that price, no need to "rebuild".

omg seriously ? you can get a brand new V7 sti shortblock from Subaru for 3000.

[Malcolm]

If I was going to buy a GT4 i would buy this one
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-ca ... 383564.htm

Would like to know what the $7500 engine spend covered, especially given it looks 100% bone stock under the hood.

Maybe that was similar to the "reconditioned" engine my first car had listed in the advert. Their view of reconditioning was changing the oil at least every 20,000kms...

I wouldn't pay that much for it... but I love it.
$7500 if he took it to Toyota and got them to do a full rebuild with everything new?

Brand new shortblock is about that price, no need to "rebuild".

I'm sure that's not true, one of the vendors on MR2oc used to sell new genuine short blocks and they were significantly cheaper than that

[strx7]

Brand new shortblock is about that price, no need to "rebuild".

omg seriously ? you can get a brand new V7 sti shortblock from Subaru for 3000.[/quote]

its directly proportionate to the demand they have.

since the St185 came out, i wonder how many NEW shortblocks toyota has sold. Then think about the amount of New Shortblocks Subaru has sold in the past 10 years since the V7 Came out..........................

[sergei]

It is actually ~ $5000 give a take a few hundred, when I inquired last time.

But same ballpark as $7500 for a stock "rebuild".

[Adamal]

Would a Subaru one be called a 'short block' or a 'narrow block'?

[~SlideWays~]

Would a Subaru one be called a 'short block' or a 'narrow block'?

LOL

[1I1]

since the St185 came out, i wonder how many NEW shortblocks toyota has sold. Then think about the amount of New Shortblocks Subaru has sold in the past 10 years since the V7 Came out..........................

QFT

Same with 13B engines etc from Mazda.

Only engine Toyota bothers/needs to bring in is diesel ones - L-series, 1KZ and and KD-series

[Prymal]

So basically what were saying is :

Find a neat RC , if you can , and treasure it - cause by the time you buy the panelling to make yours look like a RC , youd have paid for a good chunk of decent mods on a 205

OR buy a 205 ..

Plus if you are getting a 185 - wide body is the only worthy oprion , slimline = Meh - pumped guards , look at least half decent !

[Boosted_162]

So basically what were saying is :

Find a neat RC , if you can , and treasure it - cause by the time you buy the panelling to make yours look like a RC , youd have paid for a good chunk of decent mods on a 205

OR buy a 205 ..

Plus if you are getting a 185 - wide body is the only worthy oprion , slimline = Meh - pumped guards , look at least half decent !

I'd have an RC/RC replica over an ST205 anyday

But yes, normal bodied 185s look very meh, widebody with good offset wheels look the shizzle.

[dnalunchie]

Brand new shortblock is about that price, no need to "rebuild".

omg seriously ? you can get a brand new V7 sti shortblock from Subaru for 3000.

its directly proportionate to the demand they have.

since the St185 came out, i wonder how many NEW shortblocks toyota has sold. Then think about the amount of New Shortblocks Subaru has sold in the past 10 years since the V7 Came out..........................[/quote]

hmmm true

[TONKA]

Thanks fellas for the info
Still keen on the st185 over st205
That RC is nice but not willing to spend that sort of money on a celica
One im looking at isnt even wide body but im not fussed as long as its tidy.

[DeeCee]

if you are going st185, i'd recommend the following:
a) widebody = GT4A, any 92-93 models, RC. It's worth it having the factory widebody.
b) rev2 92-93 models. Any revision is an improvement. In this case, gearbox, shifter, clutch pedal box, larger front discs and switch from smaller 2pot calipers to large 1 pot calipers. I'm sure there are other things, but these are some of the revisions I have found as I've disassembled rev1 and rev2 celicas at pick a part. Revisions fix issues that became apparent after the first unit. Better to go with the latter. Aesthetic differences are also on the cars.
c) don't get a project. Get in something you can drive. Parts are available, but as with any project, parts can get harder to come by as the car gets older.
d) get the st205. They fixed everything wrong with st185s. You will be able to swap a reasonable amount over from 205 to 185, but the fun stuff isn't all transferable ie front brakes can't be transferred, but rear brakes can (with mod to stone shield), hub stubs are different, st20x brake booster unit swaps, but you have to use st20x MC etc etc

get this one if you're looking at TM gt4 1992
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-ca ... 826502.htm

[Malcolm]

Front brakes can be adapted from the ST205 to the ST185 without too much trouble, but you do have to take about 15 or 20mm off the diameter of the disk.

I'd pick an ST185 RC over an ST205 any day of the week, but I'd prefer an RC with ST205 engine/gearbox/brakes in it

[DeeCee]

not really for the front brakes. There is still interference with the ball joint due to the rotor hat height and you a 5mm hub spacer to get some space between disc and ball joint. Common mod is to grind off some of the ball joint to gain a mm or so of clearance. You also need to shave the hub carrier mounts slightly as well. There is also the issue of being fully hubcentric. st185 uses 54mm spigot while st205 uses 55mm. If you got st20x hub, the hub is 55mm for 5mm and then goes to 54mm. Using a hub spacer will still leave you with 54mm and squeeky brakes as the rotor moves slightly around the hub spigot. Mounting hardware is also changed as the thread placement is reversed between models due to different side of caliper mounting. So drill out and rethread as required, or using diff mounting hardware.

altezza rotor has been shown to work, but you need to redrill for 5x100 pcd, grind ears off slightly and use spigot ring. otherwise subaru discs can be used, but require pad spacer and hub ring.

Edit - have corrected terminology because Malcolm has deemed it necessary to ensure that my post is moderated when numerous 5 word questions goes unmoderated from some thickass with a backwards baseball cap and a milo tin on his muffler.

[Malcolm]

Everything you listed above is what I'd consider "without too much trouble"

Running the ST205 brakes on the ST185 is essentially the same process as putting them on an AW11, except with the MR2 you need to redrill disks. What most people do is machine the centre bore of the disk out larger so they can press a 2-3mm thick spigot spacer into it to bring it back down to 54mm.

I didn't even know hubs had ears.

[RunningRich]

I didn't even know hubs had ears.

Shows what you know. Next you'll be telling us that you didn't know that crackshafts have belly buttons!

[Dell'Orto]

i
get this one if you're looking at TM gt4 1992
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-ca ... 826502.htm

Would be a tad concerned with the rusty gunk around the radiator cap

[Adamal]

i
get this one if you're looking at TM gt4 1992
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-ca ... 826502.htm

Would be a tad concerned with the rusty gunk around the radiator cap

Clean it off?