CT26 Blown Turbo

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CT26 Blown Turbo

Postby GT4PWA » Fri Oct 07, 2011 8:44 am

So I was driving down to Ohakune last weekend and my dam turbo blew! I am looking at my options now on what to do

1. Get the Turbo rebuilt and reconditioned (If I go down this path who would you recommend and costs etc)

2. Buy a new Turbo. If I do this what turbo would you recommend, are there any that will bolt on, costs etc

3. An option im overlooking maybe?

Thanks for your help

I'm based in Auckland on the Shore and would like to try stay as local as possible but am open to options
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Postby sergei » Fri Oct 07, 2011 9:17 am

Find a good condition s/h CT20b. Also fix the issue that caused the turbo to blow.
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Postby Dell'Orto » Fri Oct 07, 2011 11:12 am

sergei wrote:Find a good condition s/h CT20b. Also fix the issue that caused the turbo to blow.


Replace the ceramic shaft with steel
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Postby Grrrrrrr! » Fri Oct 07, 2011 11:53 am

Cheapest option is probably http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/toyota/engines/auction-413332377.htm. (Assuming its in good condition)

But now is a good time to upgrade.. ct20b is easiest upgrade path, bolts straight up once you remove a stud from exhaust side.

Other upgrades depend on how much you want to spend...
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Postby CelicaGT8 » Fri Oct 07, 2011 8:41 pm

Go ct27, keep everything the same, get more power and more lag WOOP
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Postby sergei » Fri Oct 07, 2011 10:18 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:
sergei wrote:Find a good condition s/h CT20b. Also fix the issue that caused the turbo to blow.


Replace the ceramic shaft with steel


There is nothing wrong with ceramic shaft, as long as you don't exceed 1.2bar on those.
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Postby Dell'Orto » Fri Oct 07, 2011 10:33 pm

Dont even need to exceed 1.2 bar, they drop their guts almost at random
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

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Postby sergei » Sat Oct 08, 2011 8:42 am

Dell'Orto wrote:Dont even need to exceed 1.2 bar, they drop their guts almost at random


Interesting, I have 175k on my ST205 with ceramic shaft, and it is all fine...
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Postby Dell'Orto » Sat Oct 08, 2011 10:37 am

Dig around, there are plenty of examples of them failing. Equally I know of people who ran 18psi on them without failure.
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

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Postby sergei » Sat Oct 08, 2011 12:01 pm

Dell'Orto wrote:Dig around, there are plenty of examples of them failing. Equally I know of people who ran 18psi on them without failure.


Perhaps their failure more to do with servicing, than anything else?
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Postby Dell'Orto » Sat Oct 08, 2011 12:36 pm

Entirely possible, but you just dont know with imports.
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
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2018 Ranger - Because workcar
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Postby mr_monkey » Sat Oct 08, 2011 4:18 pm

sergei wrote:
Dell'Orto wrote:Dig around, there are plenty of examples of them failing. Equally I know of people who ran 18psi on them without failure.


Perhaps their failure more to do with servicing, than anything else?


ffs, stop trying to twist things. Accept that you are wrong. You must have been living under a rock to not have heard of the ceramics failing.

jesus, some people make everything so difficult.
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Postby sergei » Sat Oct 08, 2011 7:20 pm

mr_monkey wrote:
sergei wrote:
Dell'Orto wrote:Dig around, there are plenty of examples of them failing. Equally I know of people who ran 18psi on them without failure.


Perhaps their failure more to do with servicing, than anything else?


ffs, stop trying to twist things. Accept that you are wrong. You must have been living under a rock to not have heard of the ceramics failing.

jesus, some people make everything so difficult.


Why so aggressive? I have heard of it plenty, but this was "I have a mate that has a a mate, who's cousin's turbo blew up". On other hand, I have personally seen steel turbo blow up in multiple occasions.

Perhaps lets start a poll how many ST205 owners had their turbo blow up?

I believe there is nothing wrong with ceramic if it is used as intended.
Remember ceramic in turbo is not tea cup kind. It has certain advantages over steel (and steel has certain advantages over ceramic).
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Postby mr_monkey » Sat Oct 08, 2011 8:46 pm

Theres no need for a poll. The original posters turbo blew. not a friend of a friends in this case.

But you cant accept that its the turbo and am now trying to defend the ceramics honor.. just because you have one and its ok?

I'm not aggressive just cant believe how many threads involve you beating a dead horse, so to speak.
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Postby sergei » Sat Oct 08, 2011 9:41 pm

My original suggestion is to replace shitty CT26 with a better CT20b. It will still be better even if it is ceramic. It is one of the most cost effective mods for Gen1/2 3SGTE. A used CT20b should not be too expensive and is a bolt-on.

OP had CT26, I am talking about CT20b. Regarding ceramic CT20b, these turbos are know to last way over 200k. Most of the turbo failures I seen is because of gunk in the turbo and supply lines. If ceramic turbo is in the car that is regularly serviced and is not overspun, it should last life time of the engine.

Anyway I suggested CT20b, it was a suggestion, OP has brain on its own and will decide for himself.


Yes I have only one ceramic CT20b (my other 3SGTE has steel one), but there are multiple cars I worked on or test driven with ceramic CT20b showing no sign of aging, some past 200k.
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Postby Dell'Orto » Sat Oct 08, 2011 9:52 pm

Ah, I was actually meaning CT26's, referring to
sergei wrote:Also fix the issue that caused the turbo to blow
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
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Postby sergei » Sat Oct 08, 2011 9:56 pm

It is a pity that you cannot longer buy WRC CT20b for price that Warwick was getting them in for.
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Postby Al » Sat Oct 08, 2011 10:41 pm

Yeah tad over $3k now. That buys you a GT3071R + adaptor + wastegate + exhaust.
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