Brake disc hitting LCA balljoint

[l1ttle_d3vil]

I'm fitting some KE70 steering arms to the Corolla so they match the KE70 struts I'm running (current setup has modified / dodgy KE2# steering arms to fit the KE70 struts).

The way I've done it is fitted KE70 struts + steering arms onto the standard KE25 LCA, with a 1mm spacer to fix the 12mm / 14mm balljoint difference between models.

Only problem now, is the KE70 steering arms have a slightly different angle when bolted to strut, so now the balljoint hits on the brake disc and the LCA won't have full travel (probably only about 20%). Any ideas on what I can do? Photos below should explain the problem, both have been taken with the LCA hanging down as low as the suspension will allow, so as soon as the car is put on the ground it will get closer to the brake disc. First image is with KE25 steering arm, second image is with the KE70 steering arm and spacer fitted.

Few options I can think of -

If I smooth off the ridge (circled in green) slightly with a grinder it is just enough to allow the balljoint to get passed the brake disk, but not sure how safe this is?! Just did it to an old balljoint to see how much needed to come off.

Other option is take 3 or 4mm off the ID of the brake disk, as you can see the brake pads don't touch the inside 10 or 12mm of the disk, so won't effect that.

OR I could try my luck with an aftermarket balljoint in the hope that it is a different moulding. I've noticed KE70 balljoints have a much smaller "base" to them, so if I can find some balljoints with a smaller base that also fit the KE25 LCA, it should be sweet.

Any ideas on the best way to get around this??

Cheers
-Matt

[Bling]

I wouldn't be doing the 3-4mm off the disc option. Last thing you need is a weakness in the brakes

Not sure about a solution though.

[Stott69]

what about spacing the discs and calipers out?

[Lloyd]

What brakes are you running?

[l1ttle_d3vil]

Suspension setup is -

KE25 LCA / Balljoint
KE70 Strut + Steering Arms with 1mm spacer
Ford Falcon 11.25" Vented disks
Toyota Hilux LN65 4 pot Calipers

Would probably be 4mm max off the disk, doesn't need to be much at all to get clearance.

Will look into how I could space the disc out as that would work.

First option will be trying to find aftermarket balljoints that aren't as bulky, as this means no modifications to anything. Trying to avoid a solution that means having to modify something every time it gets replaced. Repco have no KE balljoints in stock to compare, so will try find some somewhere.

[Lloyd]

How well do the calipers sit? If you've got a bit of room/space to play with them it might be worth going through the DBA book and find some rotors with slightly different internal diameter to clear or slightly shallower hat height. Assuming the balljoints turn out harder to fit

[l1ttle_d3vil]

Had a look at spacing the caliper + disc out and it isn't going to work, too much other stuff to rub on then

Lloyd - what is the DBA book? If I can find a rotor with all the same dimensions, just bigger ID it should be fine.

Another suggestion is negative camber RCA's, this would work and wouldn't need to be much. Only needs to space it out 5 or 10mm.

Can't find anyone in town with KE balljoints in stock, but I have noticed the one in the photo are slightly different to the ones on the actual car, so definitely different shapes around. Whether I can find some small enough is another story... if anyone has any replacement balljoints lying around, can you flick me some photos and/or measurements??

[Lloyd]

Sorry, DBA book meaning their brake rotor catalogue. Just if you get stuck in the end and have a bit of room to play with with your caliper mounting or overall rotor diameter or something then it might be worth popping into BNT and a few different DBA numbers and seeing if anything will suit.

Click the Catalogue link over on the far right at the top, gives a list of available rotors and dimensions.
http://www.dba.com.au/

[Grrrrrrr!]

I wouldn't be doing the 3-4mm off the disc option. Last thing you need is a weakness in the brakes

I would, it looks like the simplest, quickest solution and doesn't appear(*) to affect sod all. and it's reducing unsprung weight too. win all round.

* From what I can see in those photos

[fangsport]

I wouldn't be doing the 3-4mm off the disc option. Last thing you need is a weakness in the brakes

I would, it looks like the simplest, quickest solution and doesn't appear(*) to affect sod all. and it's reducing unsprung weight too. win all round.

* From what I can see in those photos

lose all round, unless you always have spare modified discs waiting to be fitted.

never modify the the consumable , as you'll never know when you need to replace it.

[Grrrrrrr!]

Given that if he can't find ball joints that give clearance the other option is to $&#$% with a ball joint... i'll take the excess metal off the unswept part of the rotor anyday. Grinding bits off loaded suspension parts like ball joints that might send you into a wall if they fail = pure stupid. The OP seems to realise this.

10 minutes every few months turning a rotor down on a lathe or a lifetime in a wheelchair having somebody wipe your arse for you.. hard call?

[Lloyd]

Its depends on the rotor. If you're taking it off that corner then you're weakening the rotor significantly and I'd expect you not to get cert or warrants with a ground down brake rotor. Likewise with the ball joints

[sergei]

Its depends on the rotor. If you're taking it off that corner then you're weakening the rotor significantly and I'd expect you not to get cert or warrants with a ground down brake rotor. Likewise with the ball joints

If it is a ventilated rotor the rear side of it is not connected to the hub side where he will be grinding, there is nothing structural in there.
The inner (rear) side of the rotor is connected to the outer (front) side of the rotor via cooling fins/pads.



Although there are some "upside down" rotors, but normally you will find then on euros or some hondas.

[Lloyd]

Ah, didn't notice the vented comment.

Still.... warrant and cert time

[fangsport]

i'd be looking at getting decent 4-pots that have a smaller profile than the big heavy Hilux ones. then one can get some discs with a reduced offset, and create clearance for to lower ball joint.

far better to engineer to fit non-modified components than to have to machine OEM dimensions every time a consumable is replaced.

not real easy to get modified replacement parts from REPCO/BNT etc, but there is a good chance they have standard ones available

[l1ttle_d3vil]

If it is a ventilated rotor the rear side of it is not connected to the hub side where he will be grinding, there is nothing structural in there.
The inner (rear) side of the rotor is connected to the outer (front) side of the rotor via cooling fins/pads.

Thats pretty much exactly what they look like. The rotor sticks out passed the fins quite a few mm too, so it wouldn't be anything structural getting removed (ie the fins themselves).

If I did do this, it would be getting machined properly too, not with a grinder. Average joe would probably not even be able to see the rotor at WOF time to know its been modified.

Still trying to get smaller balljoints as the first option, failing that will try find some negative camber RCA's that do the job.