7a tensioner/cambelt setup

[NOLAW]

Hey guys

Iv just set up my timing belt and it seemed really tight at first, i got it on in the end but had to take the tensioner off to put it on and then put the tensioner on after, is this sometimes a usual practise? just wanted to check iv done it right before i go buying the new belt for the engine (the belt iv just put on was my old 4agze belt as thats the belt iv been told to use, the engine itself is a 7agte)

Also if all is sweet, when i have the belt fitted etc, do i tighten/nip the bolt up on the tensioner?

cheers guys

heres a few pics

[l1ttle_d3vil]

Also if all is sweet, when i have the belt fitted etc, do i tighten/nip the bolt up on the tensioner?

I heard you're supposed to use a cambelt off a Porsche to fit correctly? Maybe google it and see what you can find. Don't know what the difference is though if you can get the 4agze one to fit. from memory last time I changed the cambelt on a 4age it was quite a mission to get it on properly and fit the tensioner etc - definitely didn't just slide on.

I normally fit the belt and tensioner + spring, then rotate the crank one or two rotations then tighten the tensioner bolt. Not sure if thats the correct procedure, but its how I was taught to do it

[iOnic]

Most cambelts are a c**t to get on - some I've retarded a cam a couple teeth and got the teeth half on then advanced the cam to "pull" the belt on then verified timing because it's impossible to get it on any easier. I leave the tensioner (if it's an auto tensioning type) loose and do a couple revolutions on the crank then torque it up to required spec.

[Crucible]

^^Yes very true.

Sometimes you can have the cams bang on the marks and find you just dont have enough slack to fit it onto the crank-teeth. The other problem is having slack on the drive side when marks on all gears 'line up' which off course puts them out when you turn crank. Easiest way imo when this happens is to advance the crank a tooth so the marks will be right once it turns.

Ive found some manuel tensioner springs dont load the belt enough and you need help the tensioner with a small screwdriver.

As suggested by Ionic, as long as you spin it over 720 and double check marks you should be right.

[iOnic]

Pretty much as long as your marks still line up perfectly after 2-3 revolutions you'll be sweet. If it whirs/whines/smokes while running or you need a new idler/tensioner not long afterwards - it's too tight.

[d1 mule]

from memory, if your using a 16v head its a porsche 944 bels, if a 20v head its a 16v belt.

[fevil]

from memory, if your using a 16v head its a porsche 944 bels, if a 20v head its a 16v belt.

Extra info. St 20v is a 16v. BT 20v with BT tensioner is Honda 5cyl G20A belt.

NOLAW. I personally would use a belt with one extra tooth. As long as the fitting doesn't put extra tension on the belt it should be fine.

[Bazda]

This is a 7a conversion.

So yes the 16v belt is the one you use, and yes its a tight fit!
Basically the tensioner does nothing but guide the belt.

[stolic]

Torque Wrench Settings:
Cylinder Head Bolts
First Stage: 29Nm
Second stage: +90deg
Third Stage: +90deg
Camshaft Bearing Cap bolts: 13Nm
Camshaft Sprocket Bolt: 59Nm
Inlet Manifold Bolts and nuts: 27Nm
Exhaust Manifold bolts and nuts: 39Nm
Timing Belt tensioner pulley bolt: 37Nm
Main Bearing bolts: 60Nm
ConRod nuts
First Stage: 39Nm
Second Stage: +90deg
Flywheel Bolts: 74Nm
Oil Pump pickup pipe bolts and nuts: 9Nm
Oil Pump cover screws: 10Nm
Oil Pump Retaining bolts: 21Nm
Crankshaft Puley Bolt: 137Nm
Crankshaft Seal carrier bolts: 9Nm
Sump bolts and nuts: 5Nm
Oil Cooler Pressure Reg:
Plug: 37Nm
Adaptor Bolt: 54Nm
Banjo Bolt: 29Nm
Spark Plugs: 18Nm


stolen from here
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/tech-c ... specs.html

[NOLAW]

thanks guys for the help, and cheers baz, just wanted to check i had done it right before going and spending the money on a new belt, stolic those torque figures will be very usefull