Toyspeed.org.nz Message Board

by **~SlideWays~** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 9:56 am

I fitted some Ferodo DS3000 race pads to the front of my AE92 GTZ.

I recently got it back on the road and my god are they noisey, they SQUEAL like banshee's!! They work really well but they just won't shut up!

I didn't refit the 'squeal shims' because one was damaged and the others were looking a bit stuffed too.

Will they make much difference and where could I buy some more?

The brakes are standard AE92 GTZ single pots, are these the same as other AE92's so I could maybe raid Pick a Part?

by **Leon** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 10:25 am

Do a pick a part raid, but some pads are just horribly noisy.

I used to run Mintex 1166's in the club hack, and for a couple hundred km after every track meeting the fronts were noisy as hell. It just went with the territory.

Chuck a smear of high temp grease between the back of the pad and the anti vibration shim thing too.

Or smear grease an inch thick all over the disc .... :lol:

by **~SlideWays~** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 10:39 am

Leon wrote: smear grease an inch thick all over the disc ....

This should be sticky'd in the FAQ's section.

by **Leon** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 11:12 am

you should be sticked in the FAQ.

Wierdo.

by **Mr Revhead** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 11:27 am

careful or you will start another internet myth!!!

Although it would be useful as a Darwin tool....

by **Bazda** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 11:43 am

Did you machine the discs before you put them in?

Wait till you race it, the brakes are gona over heat big time

, then there will be no noises.

by **Leon** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 11:48 am

other than driver screaming, and the sound of understeer into gravel.

by **siren676** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 11:51 am

When I got my greenstuffs they came with a rubber sheet which you cut out and stick to the back of the brake pad.
Maybe you could find some of them?

by **~SlideWays~** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 12:31 pm

Bazda wrote:Did you machine the discs before you put them in?

Wait till you race it, the brakes are gona over heat big time , then there will be no noises.

Not machined.

Raced it with old unkown metal compound pads and cooked the brake fluid.

I've flushed fluid out and replaced with some 600deg stuff, can't remember the name now.

Then fitted these pads, will have to see how they hold up. The car is about 920kg now so 100kg less than previous trackday (3 years ago).

I'm hoping I don't need to fit Wilwoods due to cost of recert.

Fingers crossed anyway!

Currently I'd just like to be able to brake without having to cringe :lol:

by **~SlideWays~** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 12:32 pm

siren676 wrote:When I got my greenstuffs they came with a rubber sheet which you cut out and stick to the back of the brake pad.
Maybe you could find some of them?

That's interesting, must be very high temp resistant stuff?

by **Bazda** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 1:03 pm

That stuff is useless, lasts like 1 hard stop and melts away.
The adhesive is only rated to 200C.
Its more for road users.

Rhys & his father both cooked their twinpot SS brakes once they got their driving sorted and really starting pushing their cars.
They went through various pads he told me.
His dads car is an ae82 so thats even lighter.

He just had a session out last weekend on the Wilwoods and he recons they are magic, no comparison to the ss ones. Braking 20-30m later.
And that was only with a road/race pad not a full race

.

Id never race on stock brakes lol. I like to brake late and feel safe doing it

by **blindnz** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 1:03 pm

Ive used copper coat sometimes on the back.

Is that the right stuff or not? Its just a force of habit

by **phoenix** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 1:34 pm

I've always found that with squealing (road) pads you just sand the edge between the pad surface and the side a little.

Usually just doing the leading and trailing edge should work - some pads are made with ramped sections on those parts to prevent squealing.

by **~SlideWays~** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 1:35 pm

phoenix wrote:I've always found that with squealing (road) pads you just sand the edge between the pad surface and the side a little.

Usually just doing the leading and trailing edge should work - some pads are made with ramped sections on those parts to prevent squealing.

Thats interesting!

by **~SlideWays~** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 1:36 pm

Bazda wrote:That stuff is useless, lasts like 1 hard stop and melts away.
The adhesive is only rated to 200C.
Its more for road users.

Rhys & his father both cooked their twinpot SS brakes once they got their driving sorted and really starting pushing their cars.
They went through various pads he told me.
His dads car is an ae82 so thats even lighter.

He just had a session out last weekend on the Wilwoods and he recons they are magic, no comparison to the ss ones. Braking 20-30m later.
And that was only with a road/race pad not a full race .

Id never race on stock brakes lol. I like to brake late and feel safe doing it

Maybe when my bank account looks happier next year...

by **crispy'86** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 1:41 pm

~SlideWays~ wrote:
phoenix wrote:I've always found that with squealing (road) pads you just sand the edge between the pad surface and the side a little.

Usually just doing the leading and trailing edge should work - some pads are made with ramped sections on those parts to prevent squealing.

Thats interesting!

Had this exact trouble at work when we fitted some new pads, someone didn't chamfer the edges, pulled pads out did this, refitted them and noise gone.

by **AE82 FXGT** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:18 pm

crispy'86 wrote:
~SlideWays~ wrote:
phoenix wrote:I've always found that with squealing (road) pads you just sand the edge between the pad surface and the side a little.

Usually just doing the leading and trailing edge should work - some pads are made with ramped sections on those parts to prevent squealing.

Thats interesting!

Had this exact trouble at work when we fitted some new pads, someone didn't chamfer the edges, pulled pads out did this, refitted them and noise gone.

This - I do it at work all the time, just something I was told then thought it was common knowledge.

by **DVSMOTORSPORT** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:55 pm

^^Agreed on that

Heres a few tips we found when doing rally cars

Dont use any form of antiseize etc on the backs and sliders of the pads, gets too hot and gets dirt in it turning into a shitty/sticky paste.

We found for the best out of pads/rotors, bed in new pads with old rotors and new rotors with old pads (dont ask me why, the boss told me but damned ifI can remember now)

If there is a painted coating on the rotor (subaru rotors have this, dunno what else) make sure its ALL off, that mistake cost a brand new set of pads and a front bumper from memory.

But yeh some pads just seem to squeal like a bitch no matter what you do

by **allencr** » Wed Dec 21, 2011 10:52 pm

Live with it, or use the original type shims & clips, making sure that all their contact/rubbing points are Smooth & Clean.
Chamfer/taper the pads leading edge.
Gasket paper between the pad & piston, or that goop every parts place sells.
File the edge of the pad's backing plate very smooth and the flat place on the caliper that it rides against.

by **rx7guy** » Thu Dec 22, 2011 9:44 am

crispy'86 wrote:
~SlideWays~ wrote:
phoenix wrote:I've always found that with squealing (road) pads you just sand the edge between the pad surface and the side a little.

Usually just doing the leading and trailing edge should work - some pads are made with ramped sections on those parts to prevent squealing.

Thats interesting!

Had this exact trouble at work when we fitted some new pads, someone didn't chamfer the edges, pulled pads out did this, refitted them and noise gone.

Can someone show a pic of this? I'm not visualising it very well.

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Race pad squeal! (AE92 GTZ)

Race pad squeal! (AE92 GTZ)

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