oxygen sensor question

[h8wrxs]

im making up a new exhaust on my evo and my stock oxy sensor looks a bit past its used by date, i know they are supposed to be replaced every 100000kms so its probably due to be done anyway

my question is, can i be a cheap arse and instead of paying $180 for a new one, can i bridge the wiring and not run one?

the oxy sensor only has 2 wires off it and ive been told theres a way of wiring one or both of them up to a 12v constant feed that will trick the ecu into thinking its there?

ive got 2 auto sparky mates that ive asked, one said yes its wprks find and the other said no so i thought id ask here


any help knowledge would be appreciated

cheers

[Crucible]

I would say you would need an o2 for better economy as ecu would need it for closed loop would it not.

can you test old one to see if its ok and just weld into new system, or is it damaged?

wouldnt think ecu would require it for fuelling under load though, as it is narrow band o2.

just my 2c

[kim0663]

Rather keep the old one there and be useless than bridge the two wires. I'd find an aftermarket o2 sensor that has the same number of wires. Can be found for under $100 and will have same output.

[sergei]

im making up a new exhaust on my evo and my stock oxy sensor looks a bit past its used by date, i know they are supposed to be replaced every 100000kms so its probably due to be done anyway

my question is, can i be a cheap arse and instead of paying $180 for a new one, can i bridge the wiring and not run one?

the oxy sensor only has 2 wires off it and ive been told theres a way of wiring one or both of them up to a 12v constant feed that will trick the ecu into thinking its there?

ive got 2 auto sparky mates that ive asked, one said yes its wprks find and the other said no so i thought id ask here


any help knowledge would be appreciated

cheers

Oxygen sensor generates between 0V and ~1V under normal operation (It actually generates 1V if AFR is less than 14.7:1, and 0V if AFR is more than 14.7:1, ECU constantly adjusts and thus making the voltage fluctuate).

ECU is smart enough to detect a lot of abnormal situations (which normally brings an engine check light). Applying 12V to an input that expects 1V is a big no-no. I know for a fact that dead sensor (the one that generates no voltage) on many toyotas does not bring engine check light. But if the wiring is short (ie "Bridged"), disconnected, or there is abnormal voltage it does bring up the Check Engine Light.


What makes you think that your Ox. Sensor is dead? Put a voltmeter to the output wire and see if voltage fluctuates between 0V and 1V (On-Off) when fully warmed up and at ~1500-2000rpm. If it does and at rate of approx once a second or faster, it means it is functioning as it should.

You can also resurrect a clogged one via butane torch method.