st215w/3sgte boost increase over factory

[samlloyd]

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand i guess a modded knock sensor may add a bit more to the equation come to think of it.

now the light bulb starts to glow huh?

sounds like there are more and more things which are all giving a helping hand in the quest for another dead gt-t engine

etc,

Back in '09 you were quite helpfull and posative, now you seem to be all angry. and against everything, have you got your period?

I have a sneaking suspicion i'll never get into the 20s with my current setup, won't run full boost untill it's on a dyno being monitored, and am getting far too old (poor) to kane the pants off the thing often, if ever. there seems to have only been two posters that have shown intellect without making the general inference; "if you touch it you'll blow it, I'm much smarter than you"
While I am mildly ritard at times, I'm also quite happy to live with the
consequences of my choices.
I'm off to measure the speed of light with grated cheese.

'you're doing it wrong' classic.

Why are you having a go at strx7? Hes saying what everyone who read this thread is thinking, myself included.

Why do you want higher boost anyway, considering the nice pistons you have already destroyed? More boost isnt the answer for more power, more flow and bang is.
Ditch your computer and slap a basic g4 in it and please give it to someone that knows what they are doing!

[blitza]

Why are you having a go at strx7? Hes saying what everyone who read this thread is thinking, myself included.

Why do you want higher boost anyway, considering the nice pistons you have already destroyed? More boost isnt the answer for more power, more flow and bang is.
Ditch your computer and slap a basic g4 in it and please give it to someone that knows what they are doing!

ffs, what lovely pistons have i destroyed? RTFQ and quit arseuming people!

[strx7]

Back in '09 you were quite helpfull and posative, now you seem to be all angry. and against everything, have you got your period?

it has already been said

Asks for advice - Doesn't listen to any of it...

being able to TUNE the igntion is the KEY thing to running a GT-T motor with modifications.

[Al]

A modded or otherwise non Toyota knock sensor is a bad idea. Find out why they are blowing first. A handful of people have already learned the hard way why replacing them with a different one was a bad idea.

If you are dead set on running large boost on a reasonably stock GT-T my only piece of advice would be upgrade the fuel system and ecu so you can run e85. Then just wind whatever boost you want in.

[gt4dude]

blitza, assuming you're running the stock turbo right....

there are many guys on 6gc.net and gt4oc.net running over 20 pounds on their 3sgtes with water injection and factory (st205) ecu, they are making somewhere around 330 FWHP...

if you had a t3 garrett like a gt3076r you could probably make that same power with 16 pounds or something, it would create a lot less heat which probably has alot to do with the detonating....

[strx7]

there are many guys on 6gc.net and gt4oc.net running over 20 pounds on their 3sgtes with water injection and factory (st205) ecu, they are making somewhere around 330 FWHP...
..

different kettle of fish though dude.
st205 have 8.5:1 compression pistons and beefy rods which will handle alot of power. GT-T engines have 9:1 pistons and lightweight rods which are identical to 3sge beams motors. 20psi on those rods even with aftermarket ecu and supporting mods = lunched rod.
the factory injectors in a GT-T are fine, it is the ignition timing(or correction of) which is the issue.

[iOnic]

He's got eagle rods and unsure whether the aftermarket pistons he's got are stock comp (assuming they are since he is still running a stock ECU albeit with a junk JDM rom tune).

As far as I can tell, he wants to know which vacuum/boost line to disconnect to achieve almost 2bar of boost...I daresay he only achieved that by disconnecting the wastegate's pressure reference from the compressor.

On a proper stock ECU he would have hit boost cut and saved his piston but since that's been binned for a generic Japanese tune which almost always have removed or raised past the point of catastrophe boost limits, his ringland went splodey. The timing those ECU's run is a whole other matter that I won't go into. Yes your engine didn't actually give up the ghost till you were back on stock boost but I assure you, the damage was done well before that point.

Rattly banging wiseco things = bad rebuild. Nothing wrong with wiseco, any piston will be a rattly POS with a bad piston to bore clearance. No surprise that it dropped a skirt eventually.

My previous "silly" comment was about you asking for how to enable this catastrophically high boost and then getting angry when people tried to explain to you that for your engine's/wallet's sake it would pay to replace the ECU that has cost you that number of rebuilds already. People are just as, if not more helpful than they were 10 years ago - they just get frustrated a lot quicker when they try to help someone who then gets on the defensive and just argues the point with them. If you knew everything already, you wouldn't have started this thread.

Here is some "relevant" advice since you asked me to give that. If you want to enable high boost purely by disconnecting vacuum lines, disconnect the line from your turbocharger compressor to your wastegate actuator. That will have your desired outcome.

Oh and your engine didn't blow up because it's a 3S. It blew up because it was a badly built 3S being controlled by an atari. You can argue till you're blue in the face on that one but 3S's are proven to be one of the strongest 4 bangers out of Japan. Some people just don't deserve to own them. Buy an evo if you want to wind the boost up without doing anything else.

[JustinSpiderholden]

[fivebob]

Rattly banging wiseco things = bad rebuild. Nothing wrong with wiseco, any piston will be a rattly POS with a bad piston to bore clearance.

Actually I think you will find rattly banging pistons are quite normal for forged low silicon 2618 alloy pistons, where the recommended clearance is .004-.005" due to the expansion, any less than that clearance and they will pick up on the bores when they expand.

This is why such forged pistons in a daily driven vehicle are not a good idea as they don't tend to get the required warm up time. You're always going to get some degree of piston slap and eventually the skirts will work harden and fracture. Hence my recommendation that blitza bought the Mahle 4032 (~12% silicon) pistons which run at .002-.003" clearance and don't have warm up and piston slap issues.

[iOnic]

I know piston slap is normal during warmup for forged pistons but I don't believe that a daily driven vehicle will never reach their operating temperature. Unless it's only ever driven 10 minutes at a time which then begs the question of whether the vehicle's use matches the components used in it.

I've had several daily driven vehicles with forged pistons and the noise was always gone within 5 minutes of startup. The way I read his post, they rattled and banged - all the time - until they damaged a skirt in what seems to me to be a short period of time. That suggests that something was amiss.

Regardless of all this, his comment suggests that it was the fault of Wiseco pistons. This is entirely not accurate. It's either an engine building problem or just a wrong choice in component vs vehicle use - either way doesn't suddenly make wiseco pistons crappy rattly things.

[fivebob]

I've had several daily driven vehicles with forged pistons and the noise was always gone within 5 minutes of startup. The way I read his post, they rattled and banged - all the time until they damaged a skirt in what seems to me to be a short period of time. That suggests that something was amiss.

Five minutes warm up for a daily driver probably accounts for 25-50% of the time in use, so over a driven period of 80,000km could be as much as 40,000km of piston slap, though it's more likely a bit less, even at an average journey of 40mins it's still 10,000km of piston skirt hitting cylinder bores.

I don't know about you, but I don't consider 80,000kms to be a short period of time for forged low silicon pistons to be run.

[iOnic]

Missed a 0. I saw 8000kms. My mistake.

[fivebob]

Regardless of all this, his comment suggests that it was the fault of Wiseco pistons. This is entirely not accurate. It's either an engine building problem or just a wrong choice in component vs vehicle use - either way doesn't suddenly make wiseco pistons crappy rattly things.

True, and all 2618 forged pistons would do the same thing, but when you don't know this and assume "forgies" are all good for reading too many internet forums, it's natural to blame the product you used. My personal opinion is that 2618 alloys are best left for race engines, or vehicles that won't see much use, and certainly not for short durations where they don't get a chance to warm up.

[iOnic]

^ Agreed. Using the wrong tool for the job doesn't make the tool rubbish.

[blitza]

It blew up because it was a badly built 3S being controlled by an atari.

Love it!

I asked one question only, got the info I wanted from the first response. -funny thing is I'd actually composed a pm to Fivebob but decide to post a topic instead.

When the initial rebuild was done, I'd ordered a factory piston to replace the one that had failed, as the car is mostly is nana'd, and if I had wanted a rattly thing I'd have brought an oil burner. Got convinced to buy the wiseco's from STA at a mean price, regretted that decision the first time I started the car. Block work was done by West Auckland engine reconditioners, double checked the bore dimensions at work myself, was bang on the lower quarter for the required clearance. Even after chasing Twstd around Taupo it still rattled, remember it's an auto, and runs more as a constant speed engine as a result, just think of the possible harmonics problems compared to a manual which is always (mostly) changing its tune.
Arseuming The wiseco's failed because of a crappy rebuild is pretty typical of the kind of incomplete thinking that so often plagues these kind of forums. Sad.
The Mahle pistons don't rattle at all.
So yes, the sane reasoning that perhaps the wrong tool for the job is most correct.

I never said I was going to run 23ish psi, perhaps I should have been more specific; I'd be happy with 16-17. My apologies.

With things as they are in the current state of tune and the results of the previous dyno run, I'm confident this will still be reasonably 'safe'.

The Knock sensor is sourced from the MR2 forum in the USA as advised by members from this forum.

Me being a Cnut for not taking the advice I asked for? RTFQ again, I only asked 1 Question, the rest has mostly been made-up. Clean your spectacles’ samlloyd.

And no, it's not a factory turbo, and there are plenty of other interesting things done to it by clever people, but that would be too fact based for here.

So, in closing, thanks to the three people who showed reasoning, and the ability to read, And to the rest, thanks for reminding me why I rarely visit forums, and have a great life enjoying other things, and I apologise to all those who offended themselves.

[gt4dude]

Why mention anything at all if all you're asking for is how to plug in a simple boost Tee or controller....

Kinda hard to believe with everything you seem to know about your car that you don't even know the ins and outs of a wastegate actuator and simple pressure relief valve...

Must be a troll thread