wrx sti vs st205 gt4

[dnalunchie]

or you know, buy a DC2 and not have to worry about anything lol

Apart from your lack of self respect...

erm? srs?

A great car that looks good and goes awesome.... man how embarrassing

[FST4RD]

or you know, buy a DC2 and not have to worry about anything lol

Brakes? What are the factory ones like? 4 stud or 5 stud ones?

Only thing with non turbos are you spend twice as much to go half as fast as a turbo... Although reliability and less to go wrong.

[BZG Wagon]

I get the impression from friends who have owned ST205's, they're reliable, easy to maintain and parts are reasonably priced. To me 2 door coupe screams sports car too - I like that feeling of being enclosed in the car which you just don't get with a WRX.

That said STi's are amazing - and you won't need to replace the seats either.

I'd be surprised if there were a significant difference in performance; when I took my stock ST215 GTT (yes it's different to a ST205) to the track I was surprised to match a couple simialr year STi's. I've also had a few goes / drags against my friends Dad in his STi and they're virtually identical. Respect my car a lot more since then.

Either way you won't be disapointed. I like a ST205 because it's a bit different too and everyone cheers the underdog (percieved or otherwise).

[dnalunchie]

or you know, buy a DC2 and not have to worry about anything lol

Brakes? What are the factory ones like? 4 stud or 5 stud ones?

Only thing with non turbos are you spend twice as much to go half as fast as a turbo... Although reliability and less to go wrong.

I have owned a type R integra at the same time a mate owned a v8 wrx

We took it out in the middle of nowhere and did a few make shift 1/4 mile drags

We were exactly even.

The type R integra makes between 130-140kw atw completely stock and weighs 1080kg

A mid 90's wrx or evo makes around 160kw atw and weighs just below 1300kg

Therefore if you assume 140kw for the DC2 and 160kw for the turbo
we come up with a power to weight rate of 5.7kg per hp for the tyre R and 6.0 kg per hp for the turbo.

[FST4RD]

or you know, buy a DC2 and not have to worry about anything lol

Brakes? What are the factory ones like? 4 stud or 5 stud ones?

Only thing with non turbos are you spend twice as much to go half as fast as a turbo... Although reliability and less to go wrong.

I have owned a type R integra at the same time a mate owned a v8 wrx

We took it out in the middle of nowhere and did a few make shift 1/4 mile drags

We were exactly even.

The type R integra makes between 130-140kw atw completely stock and weighs 1080kg

A mid 90's wrx or evo makes around 160kw atw and weighs just below 1300kg

Therefore if you assume 140kw for the DC2 and 160kw for the turbo
we come up with a power to weight rate of 5.7kg per hp for the tyre R and 6.0 kg per hp for the turbo.

i like the 98 model itr's the 5 stud ones with the factory wheels (still a dc2?). I would have one in a heartbeat. But i assume they only have dodgy old 2 pot front brakes? Whether the brembos from the later model fit?
Only thing with turbo though is it's easier and cheaper to make them go faster if that's your thing.

[strx7]

[
The type R integra makes between 130-140kw atw completely stock

They make 149KW (200hp) at the flywheel bog standard.........

140kw at the wheel is NOT std in any way shape or form......

they might make close to 130kw on a hub dyno, that that isn't at the wheels, that is at the hubs, which is a different thing again........

[rollaholic]

type R is a brilliant car. theres more to going fast than power.

[1I1]

i like the 98 model itr's the 5 stud ones with the factory wheels (still a dc2?). I would have one in a heartbeat. But i assume they only have dodgy old 2 pot front brakes? Whether the brembos from the later model fit?
Only thing with turbo though is it's easier and cheaper to make them go faster if that's your thing.

Yup 98 spec are 5 stud, feature different gearbox ratios and pretty sure they have bigger brakes? And still a DC2 chassis

Yeah a modded (I/H/E) DC2R will make 130-140kw @ wheels.

[dnalunchie]

[
The type R integra makes between 130-140kw atw completely stock

They make 149KW (200hp) at the flywheel bog standard.........

140kw at the wheel is NOT std in any way shape or form......

they might make close to 130kw on a hub dyno, that that isn't at the wheels, that is at the hubs, which is a different thing again........

* EDIT I retract my old statement, I found said dyno plots and the stock readings were 130kw atw rather than 140kw. Still not a bad effort for an engine that is "supposed" to male 200hp, although it could just be like JDM evos and sti's making only "206kw"

Anyway i dont want to create some silly argument all I am trying to get accross is that the type R is a very competitive car when compared to a 90's turbo

[strx7]

around a track they can be fast, driver abilites and car set up have a lot to do with it.

[dnalunchie]

around a track they can be fast, driver abilites and car set up have a lot to do with it.

yup very true, but would you concede they would offer similar levels of performance to an evo 4 or v4 wrx on a track with most likely less maintenance hassles ?

[Leon]

also worth noting, in *most* competition events where the class is defined by engine size, an 1800cc non turbo car puts you in a way easier class to get a good result in without having a big budget car.

Because if you're in the 2000cc and over class with a turbo car (for MSNZ events in a turbo car you multiply the cc rating by 1.7, so 2000cc turbo = 3400cc for class purposes) you're in with a group of people more inclined to spend some *serious* coin on their cars.

That's my experience in 18 years of club level competition anyway. There will be exceptions to the rule, as I'm commenting only from my own experience.

[strx7]

also worth noting, in *most* competition events where the class is defined by engine size, an 1800cc non turbo car puts you in a way easier class to get a good result in without having a big budget car.

Because if you're in the 2000cc and over class with a turbo car (for MSNZ events in a turbo car you multiply the cc rating by 1.7, so 2000cc turbo = 3400cc for class purposes) you're in with a group of people more inclined to spend some *serious* coin on their cars.

That's my experience in 18 years of club level competition anyway. There will be exceptions to the rule, as I'm commenting only from my own experience.

hit the nail on the head. if you want to play with a 4wd, you basically need to build a car with and have the driving abilities to win an event outright, as being 1/2/3 in the 4wd class usually means being 1/2/3 overall.

Historically, the 3 under 2000cc catergories have been realatively cheap to be competitive in, however in the past 3-4 years with the shift in rallying away from the 4wd turbo vehicles, more people are building fairly serious 1601-2000cc 2wd cars, and that class is now almost as competitive as the 4wd class. playing in the 1600 class with either a 4AGE or B16A is still the easiest and cheapest way to place in class.

[dnalunchie]

also worth noting, in *most* competition events where the class is defined by engine size, an 1800cc non turbo car puts you in a way easier class to get a good result in without having a big budget car.

Because if you're in the 2000cc and over class with a turbo car (for MSNZ events in a turbo car you multiply the cc rating by 1.7, so 2000cc turbo = 3400cc for class purposes) you're in with a group of people more inclined to spend some *serious* coin on their cars.

That's my experience in 18 years of club level competition anyway. There will be exceptions to the rule, as I'm commenting only from my own experience.

hit the nail on the head. if you want to play with a 4wd, you basically need to build a car with and have the driving abilities to win an event outright, as being 1/2/3 in the 4wd class usually means being 1/2/3 overall.

Historically, the 3 under 2000cc catergories have been realatively cheap to be competitive in, however in the past 3-4 years with the shift in rallying away from the 4wd turbo vehicles, more people are building fairly serious 1601-2000cc 2wd cars, and that class is now almost as competitive as the 4wd class. playing in the 1600 class with either a 4AGE or B16A is still the easiest and cheapest way to place in class.

SO what your saying is don't buy a ITR but buy a CTR instead?>

[iOnic]

I got the feeling that this guy wanted a clubsport level car (if that). Just something to toy around in at weekend trackdays - not necessarily an outright competition car. He was pretty clear on keeping the engine stock/near stock and even a rollcage was a maybe...So I doubt race classes and competitiveness are high on the list.

Also got the feeling he wanted a 4WD + Turbo car regardless of how much better/just as good other platforms were. Sure an ITR may be just as quick but it doesn't fit his requirements.

But hey carry on

[Bling]

You don't tell toyspeeders what you want, they tell you what you want...

[rollaholic]

sorta like communist russia

(sergei for supreme leader?)

[Audi]

You don't tell toyspeeders what you want, they tell you what you want...

Haha I like that. You want a 98 spec ITR, mmm.

[Dell'Orto]

was told of an EVO3 rally car the other day for $7K. Got to be cheap motorsport.

No, you want this. Thats crazy cheap. Cant even buy a road Evo 1 for that money

[dnalunchie]

http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.p ... 078.0.html

fully rebuilt v4sti for 7k

worth a look