ST215 GT-T Caldina rear wheel bearing

[cat007]

I need to do this for my WOF - are there any tips or tricks to doing these?

[sergei]

I need to do this for my WOF - are there any tips or tricks to doing these?

The are basically same deal as front wheel bearings.
15 to 30 min to take the hub assembly out (you will muck around with handbrake mechanism, don't forget to adjust with the adjuster with screw driver into the disc hole), then you will need access to press to press out old bearing and press in new ones.

[cat007]

I need to do this for my WOF - are there any tips or tricks to doing these?

The are basically same deal as front wheel bearings.
15 to 30 min to take the hub assembly out (you will muck around with handbrake mechanism, don't forget to adjust with the adjuster with screw driver into the disc hole), then you will need access to press to press out old bearing and press in new ones.

Thanks for that.

Hopefully I'll be able to suss it out.

Cheers
Hunt

[cat007]

Is there any trick to getting the (what I assume is) the abs sensor out? I've removed the one bolt but it doesn't want to budge.

[cat007]

Here's the sensor. It's on the front of the hub. This is the left rear hub. There's only one bolt holding it in but I just can't get it out and fear I'll break it if I lean on it too much....

[1I1]

I just twisted them and that helped "pop" them out of the hub

[Lloyd]

Most ABS sensors have a habit of seizing in there and are a pain to get out. Drown it in CRC or RostOff or similar and let it soak for a while. Get some pipe pliers or whatever suits and gently work it around turning it a bit until it loosens up (holding it by the base, not by the sensor part itself). Either it'll come out after a while or you'll have to try and replace the bearing with it in place... if it fits out past the sensor.

[cat007]

Ok so do I have to press the bit that the wheel bolts too out of the hub? I've tried but it seems to only flex the arms I'm bracing against



I'm trying to get the spline out of the bearing in the pic....

Help!?

[cat007]

I thought you pressed the stub axel bit where the wheel bolts to, outwards then you pressed the bearing out of the hub inwards??

[Lloyd]

Press the flange/spline bit out. You'll find it likely comes out with one half of the inner part of the bearing stuck to it. You either need to get a bearing puller plate thing or cut that off. The other inner half will just push out once the flange is off the hub.

The 2 races with the actual balls in will the come out. Then probably have to pop a seal off, remove a large circlip and then the outer part should press out.

[cat007]

Press the flange/spline bit out. You'll find it likely comes out with one half of the inner part of the bearing stuck to it. You either need to get a bearing puller plate thing or cut that off. The other inner half will just push out once the flange is off the hub.

The 2 races with the actual balls in will the come out. Then probably have to pop a seal off, remove a large circlip and then the outer part should press out.

Sweet cheers! Wasn't sure if the flange/spline bit was held in by anything. It too a fair amount of force to get it to break free!

All done now though!
Thanks again

[cat007]

Ok so I'm about to put it all together and then I realize I'm missing the two pins that hold the brake shoes in -

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1998_T ... ?hl=47447E

and

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1998_T ... ?hl=47447F

Does anyone have any of these or a parts car in auckland?

[sergei]

Ok so I'm about to put it all together and then I realize I'm missing the two pins that hold the brake shoes in -

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1998_T ... ?hl=47447E

and

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1998_T ... ?hl=47447F

Does anyone have any of these or a parts car in auckland?

random corona/celica from pickapart?

[cat007]

Ok so I'm about to put it all together and then I realize I'm missing the two pins that hold the brake shoes in -

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1998_T ... ?hl=47447E

and

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1998_T ... ?hl=47447F

Does anyone have any of these or a parts car in auckland?

random corona/celica from pickapart?

Just went to my mates workshop where I did it and amongst the mess I found them right next to each other! Phew. Thank F lol

[cat007]

So after replacing the wheel bearing by using a press and not a hammer or anything stupid, I go to get a WOF and he shows me that it's still 'wobbly'

You can wobble the wheel if you hold the top and bottom of it.

Perhaps I need to do the big center socket up a bit more? What should this be torqued to?

[DeeCee]

Should be torqued up and was there wear on the hub shaft?
If the hub itself is knackered then it will still wobble. Happened to me on my subaru so I had to get another hub.

[cat007]

Should be torqued up and was there wear on the hub shaft?
If the hub itself is knackered then it will still wobble. Happened to me on my subaru so I had to get another hub.

It was pretty dam tight - I don't think it was worn.

Any idea's what it should be torqued to? Or just 'as tight as you can' sort of thing?

[sergei]

Should be torqued up and was there wear on the hub shaft?
If the hub itself is knackered then it will still wobble. Happened to me on my subaru so I had to get another hub.

It was pretty dam tight - I don't think it was worn.

Any idea's what it should be torqued to? Or just 'as tight as you can' sort of thing?

For ST205 front is 276NM, rear is 226NM, or commonly known as $&#$% Tight.

[DeeCee]

166 ft lbs, 226Nm
*sees sergei's post, goes check BGB
- huzzah, correct

[Lloyd]

The rears don't tend to wear much like that, a lot of Subarus, Coronas and Caldina front hubs are showing worn flanges but I'm yet to strike a rear one yet. That's not to say it wont be the issue though.

If they're work the you'll see half of the stub sticking out of the flange bit (with the splines) with be worn on the outside. I'll try to find a pic.

Is the wobble actually in the bearing, or are there worn bushes on that corner? The centre nut should be torqued to as tight as you can basically. Unlike old bearings and trailer bearings etc, these ones are designed so that centre nut is pushing together the 2 inners shells of the bearing so you'd be hard pressed to cause any distortion from over tightening (depending how big the bar is you're using, probably safer to torque it up)