Torque Damper

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Torque Damper

Postby steroidcontaskie » Sun Jun 03, 2012 12:17 am

Hi All

Due to some clearance issues with the turbo housing vs strut tower, I was thinking about getting a Torque Damper.

I couldn't find one for specifically for the 2jzge engine. Anyone know if one made for the 2jzgte would fit? Or if I can just gypsy fit one made for any engine?

Cheers
Edward
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Postby strx7 » Sun Jun 03, 2012 6:45 am

depends on where on the engine they attach to asa to if it will fit or not.
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Postby BlakeNZ » Sun Jun 03, 2012 6:48 am

Not sure if the 2jzgte one will fit- are you still running the distributor?
In my jzz30, i used a long gas strut from a van rear door. I cut the shaft down so it only had about a cm of travel, and measured the pressure to move the shaft at 90kg..ie it took a 90kg weight on the end of it to move the shaft inwards. The 1cm of movement(less actually) doesn't sound much, but i found out that the proper kits don't move in at all. They look like a dampener, but inside they have a plastic rod, so the shaft does not get pushed in.
One end of my custom made dampener was mounted to a fitting welded to my front engine lift hook, the other end went to a fitting bolted forward of the strut tower.
Prior to fitting it, i broke two engine mounts(the rubber bits). when the engine revs and the stalls up the trans and convertor, it gets a bit of twist on, and tries to lift that passenger side engine mount.
Problem solved.
I found that due to clearance issues(turbos/piping etc)the strut tower was a difficult place to try to mount one.
I'm liking the sound of your project. it would be a real sleeper. The high compression motor and large capacity will spool up a turbo early- power everywhere, plus the comfort of the Soarer. AWESOME.
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Postby Mr Ree » Sun Jun 03, 2012 9:12 am

How close is the turbo to the strut tower? I always thought the A80 and Z30 has the same dimensions for suspension parts?

Sounds like a MONSTER turbo as mine is nowhere near my strut tower.
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Postby steroidcontaskie » Sun Jun 03, 2012 1:01 pm

Hi guys,

thanks for the imput.

I am still running the distributor (much to my bane) I did put a different distributor cap on for better clearence of the intake.

I am pretty sure the Jzz is the same as the JA80 for supension, so should be the same like your supra Na-T.

It isnt the turbo that is actually hitting the tower(although if the engine moved alot it probably would), it is that the compressor out is close to the tower. The turbo is clocked towards the manifold as much as possible. If I cut a slight angle on a 90 degree joiner so I can get it right on the compressor out, then the silicon coupler is slightly compressed against the tower when the egine is at rest .

So, the best option is to get a 90 degree elbow welded on, but even if I do that the elow will still hit the tower when the engine torques.

So I thought that a torque damper would be a good idea, see how well it works and then get the elbow put on the turbo. Also, the downpipe and wastegate are hard plumbed into each other with no flexi, so I thought that having a torque damper might help reduce stress on them.

I tell you what, this has been a learning curve, I couldnt even use a ratchet properly when I started :) .

I will take a photo of the problem.

Thanks Again
Edward
Science never sleeps...

Current JZZ31 soarer 2jzge-T (project), Crown Athlete 3.5 (Daily)
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Carmy Wagon 2.5 (lent to mum).
Previous. A32 maxima (dead) 190e Merc (dead)
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Postby Snaps » Sun Jun 03, 2012 2:05 pm

steroidcontaskie wrote:
I will take a photo of the problem.

Thanks Again
Edward


I think this is the best thing to do :)
Cheers,
Brandon

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Postby Bling » Sun Jun 03, 2012 3:13 pm

Convince the tower it doesn't want to be near the bend

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Postby steroidcontaskie » Sun Jun 03, 2012 4:53 pm

Lol, yea give the tower teh bash. The guys that turbo this engine over in the US seem to do that if they get clearance issues... not sure if I would pass a cert with a bashed in tower though.
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Previous. A32 maxima (dead) 190e Merc (dead)
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Postby Bling » Sun Jun 03, 2012 6:37 pm

Have seen a section of a tower cut and moved outwards then welded back in. Can't find the example at the moment, but it was to allow room for some carb ram tubes on a starlet.
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Postby wde_bdy » Sun Jun 03, 2012 8:32 pm

That was probably Dunny's car, would need pics of the problem before commenting on if it could help or not.

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Postby steroidcontaskie » Mon Jun 04, 2012 12:51 pm

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78969801@N03/7331425092/

when the silcon joiner is on, it is pressed up against the strut tower.
Science never sleeps...

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Postby Dell'Orto » Mon Jun 04, 2012 12:55 pm

I imagine some light clearancing with a rubber mallet would be enough, the motor oughtnt move that much!
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Postby ch4ng » Tue Jun 05, 2012 6:31 pm

Is clocking the turbo an option for you? Get the compressor outlet pointing down more
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Postby steroidcontaskie » Tue Jun 05, 2012 7:18 pm

Turbo is colcked as much as possible, it is almost touching the manifold as it is. Guess I could clock it upright and have the pipping sticking up thought the bonnet Gonzo-Style.

Ideally, I will do what Mr Ree did with his Na-T and get an elbow welded on. But I am still a bit concerned a welded on elbow will hit the tower when the engine torques.

Maybe I am just worrying too much about it.

Cheers
Edward
Science never sleeps...

Current JZZ31 soarer 2jzge-T (project), Crown Athlete 3.5 (Daily)
RVR Turbo (idle)
Carmy Wagon 2.5 (lent to mum).
Previous. A32 maxima (dead) 190e Merc (dead)
Terrano (dereg for 10 years, still being driven in west Auckland)
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Postby Snaps » Tue Jun 05, 2012 7:26 pm

Might be able to get the outlet cut back a bit before you weld on the elbow? Thus giving more clearance than you have now?
Cheers,
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