Engine Light?

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Engine Light?

Postby Freds 93 FXGT » Sun Jun 10, 2012 7:08 pm

Hi there folks, have an issue with the FXGT. Was driving in town today, when the car died, lights came up,motor not running. Clutched it,(as the car was still moving)fired up, but very sluggish. Carried on driving, seamed fine, but gave the odd cough everynow and then. Was at a set of lights, and it died again, this time after it started, the engine light came on for a few seconds, then went out? Car starts ok, but still gives the odd cough?

Any ideas of what may becausing this?
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Postby gt4dude » Sun Jun 10, 2012 7:13 pm

TE1 - E1
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Postby Kiwi-Corolla » Sun Jun 10, 2012 7:27 pm

To read the codes on an OBD-I system all you need is a paper-clip :)

Look in the engine bay and you'll see a small black box next to the left hand side strut tower that says 'Diagnosis' on it. Get a paper-clip or a small piece of wire and put one end into the port labelled TE1 and the other end into the port labelled E1 (the labels are found on the underside of the diagnosis box cover, much like a fuse-box).

Turn the key to the 'ON' position, but don't start the engine. If your connections are correct then the check engine light should start flashing. Keep note of how many times it flashes as this is the code it is giving you. For example, if the code was 35 it would flash 3-times, have a short pause, then flash 5 more times, then have a long pause. If it repeats the same code after the long pause then that means it's the only fault detected, but if it flashes for a different period of time then that means there is more than one fault. Take note of any codes it's giving you.

The meaning of the codes are as follows:

12 = RPM signal (no RPM signal to ECU within several seconds after engine is cranked)
13 = RPM signal (no RPM signal to ECU with engine speed above 1,500rpm)
14 = Ignition signal (no ignition signal to ECU)
16 = ECU control signal
21 = Main oxygen sensor
22 = Coolant temperature sensor
24 = Intake air temperature sensor
25 = Oxygen sensor or circuit (lean)
26 = Oxygen sensor or circuit (rich)
27 = Sub-oxygen sensor
31 = MAP sensor
41 = Throttle position sensor
42 = Vehicle speed sensor
43 = Starter signal
51 = Switch condition signal
52 = Knock sensor signal

If no codes are detected then your check engine light should flash continuously (at 0.26 second intervals) when you've got the E1 and TE1 terminals of the diagnostic box jumped. If your check engine light doesn't flash when you've jumped the ports, then wiggle the paper clip or piece of wire around a little as the terminals are filled with grease from factory and it can sometimes be a difficult to get a good connection. There should however definitely be at least one code detected since your CEL is on.
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Postby Grrrrrrr! » Mon Jun 11, 2012 5:08 pm

If it comes up with no codes or maybe just starter signal i'd suspect that the elctrolytic caps in the ECU had died, its common on those ECUs. Somebody here will be able to recommend someone who can replace them for you no doubt.
Reality: A nasty hallucination that is caused by excess blood in the alcohol stream.
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Postby Lurkin » Mon Jun 11, 2012 6:21 pm

matt dunn may be the man for the job....
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Postby Freds 93 FXGT » Mon Jun 11, 2012 9:00 pm

Update(ish)
Dropped it off to the mechanic for him to have a look, and they rung back this arvo to say that its the dizzy thats gone on it? They are going to look into it more tommorrow.
Does this sound like it could be the problem??

Thanks for the help so far ( keeping that list of fault codes to look up if needed, at a later date )
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Postby matt dunn » Mon Jun 11, 2012 11:14 pm

Freds 93 FXGT wrote:Update(ish)
Dropped it off to the mechanic for him to have a look, and they rung back this arvo to say that its the dizzy thats gone on it? They are going to look into it more tommorrow.
Does this sound like it could be the problem??

Thanks for the help so far ( keeping that list of fault codes to look up if needed, at a later date )


No it does not sound right.
I have diagnosed heapsof faults in 20V's over the years,
but have never seen one of those type of distrubitor fail.

I would bet on an ECU.

Take it out and sniff it.
If it smells like fish, it's stuffed.
Seriously.
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Discussion - viewtopic.php?t=59751
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Postby Dell'Orto » Mon Jun 11, 2012 11:33 pm

So most of the girls in Hamilton are beyond repair then?
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
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Postby Freds 93 FXGT » Tue Jun 12, 2012 9:00 pm

Another update.
Well after a couple of dizzys (2nd hand ones), they now think it could be the ECU, as after each time they tried a new dizzy, it came up with different faults codes compaired to when it first got scanned lol.
Will update more tomorrow.
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Postby Dell'Orto » Tue Jun 12, 2012 9:22 pm

Matt is an auto sparky, follow his advice.
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
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Postby wde_bdy » Tue Jun 12, 2012 10:01 pm

Also, don't pay for your auto sparky getting it wrong. If you pay for expertise it should be right, if it isn't then it isn't worth paying for. Professionals must provide what they charge for not for guess work.

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