3SGE flavours - and removal / installation advice

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Postby Bling » Thu Jul 19, 2012 11:36 pm

That's the easy bit. I assume I just have to make sure the rack is in the exact same position when I put it back in? If I take it out in any case. Haven't had a good look at it yet to see if it needs to drop with the rest or not.
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Postby Lloyd » Thu Jul 19, 2012 11:40 pm

Centre the wheels, lock the steering wheel, mark the shaft and universal where you slide them apart. When you put the universal joint back on for the steering then they wheels will either be centred or miles off.
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Postby Bling » Thu Jul 19, 2012 11:43 pm

Cheers makes sense, the way it was described to me just made it sound like a really complicated deal. When it doesn't sound like it at all..
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Postby Grrrrrrr! » Fri Jul 20, 2012 12:50 am

I'll be interested to see how you get on with this, let me know if you end up deciding the current head/motor is scrap, there are several bits in it I may have a use for.
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Postby Jdawg » Fri Jul 20, 2012 1:52 pm

BZG|Bling wrote:
Ok so skip a few steps. For the Celica fans out there, how hard is it to drop the engine / trans / front suspension out? I'm currently removing the old engine piece by piece, and it's a nightmare.
TIA


So..you are pulling the engine out from the top?
Do you have a couple of decent axle stands and an engine crane and some working room?
Undo your struts, exhaust and stuff. Remove the plugs from the ECU and 2 other plugs and undo the 2 bolts and the whole loom stays with the engine, and lift the body off. Doesn't take very long and you will be rewarded with easier access to everything and being able to give everything a good clean at the same time. Just done this with a Curren.
Remember to use the engine sensors from whatever ECU you use. Some are calibrated different between models.
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Postby DeeCee » Fri Jul 20, 2012 2:00 pm

Agreed on engine installation through the bottom of the car / lifting body over the engine.

Will be doing this tonight, and probably taking engine out by next week again haha. Becomes a fine art when you need to install the engine to figure out the placement of equipment, only to pull the engine again so you can access to make the modifications.
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Postby sergei » Fri Jul 20, 2012 2:04 pm

(almost) fully assembled 3S engine +4WD can be pulled out of the car.

It goes down (not up). you will need to disconnect the tie rods, swaybar, drive shafts, exhaust and other small bits like brake lines, then you can drop the whole thing with the crossmember and suspension subframe.

I did this a few times in the garage with engine hoist.
I lifted the car as high as I can, with axles stands on the large wood blocks for extra height. Then I used the crane to lower the engine down on the crane support legs + a trolley. Then I disconnected the crane and pulled the crane from under the car with the engine+gearbox.
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Postby Bling » Fri Jul 20, 2012 9:05 pm

Only removing engine from the top as I was trying to determine the damage. So was starting with the head. I still intend to take the head off as i'm halfway there. But when I find the damage i'll likely just drop everything out the bottom.

No garage to use at the moment so it's happening on a gravel car park. I have all the tools needed to do it, 6T axle stands and engine crane. I may take the wheels off to gain a bit more room as it's not going to be easy on gravel!

Have always dropped the engines of my RWD cars out the bottom due to ease. Just wanted to confirm this was still be easiest option. Also if there were any tips, with the above posts I should be sorted. Didn't think about the engine sensors, will make sure I swap those over.

Also Sergei, when you say almost complete, what have you removed? Ideally i'll just bolt new engine up to trans 100% complete and lift it into place.

Thanks for the info :)
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Postby sergei » Fri Jul 20, 2012 9:26 pm

BZG|Bling wrote:
Also Sergei, when you say almost complete, what have you removed? Ideally i'll just bolt new engine up to trans 100% complete and lift it into place.

Thanks for the info :)


You will have to disconnect bits of loom, fusebox and such has to come out with engine, the engine loom is better to do it from ECU end: it comes out of firewall with all the ECU and body loom plugs. The powersteering hoses and such will have to be disconnected.
Radiator I usually remove as it is easy to damage.
If you have A/C, the compressor will have to be unbolted from the block (unless it is empty) and left "hanging" in there.

In case of 3SGTE turbo can remain but intercooler is better to be removed as it can be damaged with hoist.
Obviously the gear shift linkages the clutch line, throttle cable, all have to be disconnected.
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Postby Bling » Fri Jul 20, 2012 9:47 pm

Ah yep, got most of that sussed. Just thought there might be part of the engine i'd have a problem installing in one go. With the limited space, I just want to be able to install the engine/box/everything else in one hit and then connect everything to it. Rather than have to torque up engine bits in place.

Is the power steering only under pressure when running?

Will probably spend tomorrow removing everything bolted on to the front so I don't damage bits.
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Postby sergei » Fri Jul 20, 2012 9:50 pm

BZG|Bling wrote:Ah yep, got most of that sussed. Just thought there might be part of the engine i'd have a problem installing in one go. With the limited space, I just want to be able to install the engine/box/everything else in one hit and then connect everything to it. Rather than have to torque up engine bits in place.

Is the power steering only under pressure when running?

Will probably spend tomorrow removing everything bolted on to the front so I don't damage bits.


Yeah, there is no pressure once it is stopped, but there is still plenty of fluid to make mess.
The hoses should be disconnected from top near brake booster area.

You can leave the gearbox mount but you will have to pull apart the front engine mount (the one on front of the engine, not car, drivers side next to strut tower). Do the rear (again, left side of the car, rear relative to engine) gearbox mount last. You can leave side mounts on the crossmember.
Last edited by sergei on Fri Jul 20, 2012 9:53 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby Bling » Fri Jul 20, 2012 9:50 pm

Sweet, good to know. Will disconnect them from up top.

Grrrrrrr! wrote:I'll be interested to see how you get on with this, let me know if you end up deciding the current head/motor is scrap, there are several bits in it I may have a use for.


Will keep in mind if I get rid of it. It will likely end up under a tarp until I have more time to look at it.
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