Electric oil circulation pumps

[Grrrrrrr!]

Anybody got a line on electric oil circulation pumps for a decent* price?

Looking for something like the tilton diff cooler pumps that can handle HOT oil and hopefully have a flow of at least 10l/min, higher is better. 100% duty would be nice, but probably isn't needed.

Don't need much pressure, just flow. Has to lift oil from sump to the oil cooler which will gravity drain back into the sump.

*$350 for a tilton can GTFO.

[d1 mule]

why not tap into the engines oil pressure as per every aftermarket / most factory oil-coolers.....

[KinLoud]

Hi Lee
Maybe use a factory oil cooler from AW11 (auto i think) and AE86 (factory option)
Its a filter adapter tha has a pressure relief valve (just like oil pump pressure relief valve) but pressure is set a couple of psi lower than oil pump one....
this means excess oil flow goes through the filter block to a low pressure hose, oil cooler, then back to sump.
- pretty much what you want to achieve but simpler!
All hoses and connections are low pressure as its just running back the sump

Top right of this pic


Right side of block


top right of this pic


I've got one lying around if you want to see if it will fit the 3s block

[Grrrrrrr!]

Cheers Ken, that was sort of what I was originally looking at doing, was going to block off the oil pump relief valve port and make a new one that vented externally to run that up to the oil cooler, but decided playing with welding up and drilling the oil pump could be a bit dodgy.

I will take you up on that offer.

[Grrrrrrr!]

why not tap into the engines oil pressure as per every aftermarket / most factory oil-coolers.....

Mainly because the cost of doing it properly is just as bad as the tilton option (oil cooler thermostat blocks, more fittings and hoses etc.),and the fact that gen2 3s engines aren't known for bearing life, so anything that could make it worse is to be avoided. Already need to get sump stripped to get some fittings brazed in, so brazing on another two bosses is an easy option.

[Flannelman]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/til-40-524

This is $165US, add $40US for freight. Quick guess be about $260NZ to your door

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-462513-3

This is a 7in x 12in cooler but suspect a china part will be cheaper ($123US)

Both together will put freight and parts at $361US. If both are brought, GST may have to be paid at customs as its over $400NZ

[RomanV]

Hi Lee
Maybe use a factory oil cooler from AW11 (auto i think) and AE86 (factory option)

That's pretty cool!

I guess the factory oil cooler on the 3S is just a more compact version of the same thing, as it just directly uses coolant through the housing thing instead.

(But doesnt have the same scope for modification)

[matt dunn]

the ones like the factory AW11 ones etc wouldn't be that great IMO.

When the oil is at it's hottest is will probably be too thin to reach the pressure relief pressure unless you are right up in the rev range,

so basically when you need the cooling the most, it does not get it.

Matt

[Grrrrrrr!]

Yeah, it'll be a juggling act to get the relief valve set to the right pressure so it never does get too hot. Shim the main valve up a bit and have the other valve act as the main relief valve might work..

Think i'll still plan on welding some extra bosses into the sump either way.

[matt dunn]

Shimming the relief valve does not give you more oil pressure,

The main things that affect oil pressure is
pump capability, oil type, oil temperature
and bearing clearances etc in the engine.

[limbo]

Another flaw the factory system mentioned above is that when the oil is cold at start up the pressure is high, which means the valve will be open and your cooler will be slowing down the time it takes the oil to get up to temp, which is generally a bad idea.

Yet more flaws is you lose oil flow when the relief valve opens sending oil through the cooler back to the sump, call me crazy but I prefer my oil goes to bearings than the sump.

A common mod for the 7mgte is to pull that system out and run oil filter relocation kit a full pressure oil cooler with teed off a thermostat.

[RomanV]

Another flaw the factory system mentioned above is that when the oil is cold at start up the pressure is high, which means the valve will be open and your cooler will be slowing down the time it takes the oil to get up to temp, which is generally a bad idea.

Well it's not a flaw when used as designed, because the coolant warms the oil up quicker. But yeah not so great if changing to air cooled.

[Grrrrrrr!]

Another flaw the factory system mentioned above is that when the oil is cold at start up the pressure is high, which means the valve will be open and your cooler will be slowing down the time it takes the oil to get up to temp, which is generally a bad idea.

Yep, but not worried about that problem, since car is a track car I dont mind having to sit stationary for 5 mins till the oil is warmed up a bit.

Yet more flaws is you lose oil flow when the relief valve opens sending oil through the cooler back to the sump, call me crazy but I prefer my oil goes to bearings than the sump.

Yep, and that is one of the things i need to check.. how much bleed off an the engine afford at 5000rpm. Enough to do some worthwhile cooling or not?

The electric pump is really looking rather attractive atm.. even at $200US + shipping, and a simple thermo switch in the sump to turn it on.

[matt dunn]

VDO i think do an oil pump.

We have used them for gearbox and diffs on the enduro cars.
They dont like to pump the oil when it is cold as it is to thick so will need some form of switch, either a temp switch or a manual on/off switch.

I will see if I can remember what they were.

[Grrrrrrr!]

Already found the VDO one Matt, smaller than the tilton one and a bit more expensive. Only about half the flow rate too. Cheers.

[Mr Ree]

VDO i think do an oil pump.

We have used them for gearbox and diffs on the enduro cars.
They dont like to pump the oil when it is cold as it is to thick so will need some form of switch, either a temp switch or a manual on/off switch.

I will see if I can remember what they were.

If you have any more info, or pictures of the set up, I would love to see them.

I have toyed with the idea of running a gearbox cooler, but have never seen one set up on a manual box. For the diff, I think Ill try to utilise the factory UK spec JZA80 diff cooler/pump/lines

[blackmk3]

Just a bit of information for anybody doing this

7M-GTEs run this same system from factory

[pureadrenalin]

Grrrrr, I know its not very helpful, but I have one of those tilton pumps and a gen2 sump, with 1/2" bung's in it for exactly this reason sitting in my shed, as I've gone gen3.
Don't know if I'm willing to let it go tho

[Grrrrrrr!]

No, not helpful at all

It was your thread on the mr2 forums that made me think of it, was looking at the whole filter relocation kit and cooler deal but really not a fan of braided hoses full of hot high pressure oil going everywhere and no temp regulation.