4K suddenly not idling?

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Postby Dell'Orto » Wed Jun 19, 2013 11:21 pm

Not the idle speed, the idle mixture screw - the one at the base of the carb by the strut tower. If its too lean it could be causing it to stall? I don't think its think its the issue here, but certainly would pay to check it out.
I wouldn't have thought it'd be a float issue - did you not check that while it was apart?
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Postby AGRORB » Thu Jun 20, 2013 8:19 am

I left the float level as it was as the car ran fine prior.

If I richen it any more the motor feels flat and bogs, and still won't idle right.
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Postby Crucible » Thu Jun 20, 2013 9:09 pm

Im not familiar with k series carbs, been a while since ive worked on one. If it runs an anti dieseling solenoid make sure that its clicking when the key is on as they stop fuel flow in the idle circuit. They used to play up a fair bit and a quick fix was to remove the plunger.

Id say the float level is ok as it would more likely to bog under load than at idle. General rule of thumb with carbs is to pull off top housing and tip upside down, centre of the float should sit parallel.

Id be checking vaccum aswell, tight valve or in your case lumpy cam can give low vacuum signal which will cause problems also, idle circuit needs good vacuum!. You can also try Pulling the mixture screw out and give it a blip with comp air.
Last edited by Crucible on Thu Jun 20, 2013 9:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby Crucible » Thu Jun 20, 2013 9:18 pm

AGRORB wrote:I left the float level as it was as the car ran fine prior.

If I richen it any more the motor feels flat and bogs, and still won't idle right.


Just to point out, the mixture screw only controls fuel at idle it wont make any differance at cruise or wot.
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Postby allencr » Fri Jun 21, 2013 6:23 am

Clean ALL of the carbs passages.
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Postby AGRORB » Fri Jun 21, 2013 8:16 am

I have, twice, to no avail.

The solenoid is clicking with the key on, is it still worth removing the plunger? I've got a weber DCD coming that just needs to be jetted to suit, I just need to keep my car going in the meantime...
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Postby Crucible » Fri Jun 21, 2013 1:36 pm

Pull it out, earth it and see if its pulling in. If you have a vac or boost gauge that shows vac tap into manifold and see whats going on. Who knows what cam it has and weather it is timed right etc.

Points? Ign timing?
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Postby AGRORB » Fri Jun 21, 2013 6:33 pm

Hmm, will have to. The thing is the car ran fine the first 2 weeks, then suddenly started dying, surely if the cam.timing was off issues would have showed long before now?
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Postby Lloyd » Fri Jun 21, 2013 6:40 pm

Assuming stuff when you're trying to tune something is the worst thing to do.

If you reckon the carb is clean and set up properly at the moment then I'd be checking your points/timing etc and go from there. Cam timing shouldn't go out without something drastically wrong, though a lot of cars will happily run a tooth out and be doggy down low.
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Postby AGRORB » Fri Jun 21, 2013 6:56 pm

It has electronic ignition, forgot to mention.
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Postby Crucible » Sat Jun 22, 2013 1:32 pm

AGRORB wrote:The thing is the car ran fine the first 2 weeks, then suddenly started dying, surely if the cam.timing was off issues would have showed long before now?


Oh yep your right.

I skim read and didnt realise that..
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Postby AGRORB » Sun Jun 23, 2013 1:49 pm

Le sigh... Professional help time :(
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Postby AGRORB » Mon Jun 24, 2013 7:23 pm

It IDLES!! Shit in the idle circuit still, bit of compressed air and away she went, just needs fine tuning now :) Cheers for all the help guys.
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