2JZ oil pump blown?? crank shaft seal??

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Postby Mr Ree » Thu Jun 13, 2013 11:00 am

escortman wrote:my front crank seal let go onway back from bach
can be done in car but will need to do cambelt as the oil roots them


Just out of interest, how much boost are you running, what oil are you running, and what sort of PCV system are you employing?
wak thud gush!
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Postby escortman » Fri Jun 14, 2013 12:33 am

When it failed was stock everything boost turbos pcv lines. Oil I think is valvoline vr1 racing but will look at the bottles on weekend to confirm. I believe mine was due to the motor had been sitting for a couple years and it happened only a couple months after getting it going. Also happened to be the only seal I didn't replace. ...
toyota supra 1996 2jzgte t64 turbonetics
Was 300hp on 10psi with stock twins, hopefully on similar boost be around 400hp

4x4 toyota blizzard offroader

widebody markII escort panelvan

RIP 13sec AE82 fxgt 4agte 5psi TD05 20g
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Postby edwagon » Fri Jun 14, 2013 8:33 am

strx7 wrote:got a big heavy single plate clutch in it?

You'd ignore this comment at your peril

PULL clutch? or PUSH?

You're better off finding out BEFORE the thrust washers drop into the sump

Been there, done that

ugh
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Postby Scottie » Fri Jun 14, 2013 7:21 pm

92mr2paddy wrote:anyone got a 3/4 drive rattle gun that has serious power? i mean i will have to take rad out to get gun in there but thats no biggy, ive tried 2m bar now and snapped it inhalf, any other tips of getting this C**T bolt out, last time it was tight but now its even tighter and i made sure not to tighten it too much when throwing the ati pulley on, it tries to move the car in 6th gear with handbrake on!


Don't forget the correct socket for 3/4 drive. A 2m bar that doesn't snap would be far better than a 3/4 rattle gun. Where abouts in auck are you? I may be able to help.
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Postby 92mr2paddy » Fri Jun 14, 2013 9:32 pm

min has been sitting for 2 years aswell as its been built up so maybe its the same problem as its only just been going again,

used to have a push twin plate ORC plate back when it was twin turbo, now is pull type again same as factory using the RPS. (dont see why this info matters to the failure of the seal?)

yea ive got a 12point 22mm socket but will try a proper 6point as the 12point has slipt once and dont want to F*** the bolt. im out clarks beach mate. give me a pm if you can help any way be great :wink:
current: 96' Supra RZS single Gt42 490kw at 20psi, daily - Hiace 2.7 van '05
previous: 92' mr2 g-limited, fuls gen 2 turbo conversion, steel ct20b, external etc etc :)
drift car: 94' silvia s14 sr20det 307kw @18psi
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Postby Mr Ree » Fri Jun 14, 2013 9:56 pm

Heavy single plate clutches badly wear the thrust bearings on the crank, and in turn, your crank can start moving both forward, and backwards. This in turn could possibly assist your FMS in moving.

Crankwalk is a bitch.
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Postby 92mr2paddy » Sat Jun 15, 2013 8:01 am

yea i have heard of that happen now that you point it out, hopefully mine is the same problem as escortman and just being old as an oil pump shouldnt fail at 130ks?
current: 96' Supra RZS single Gt42 490kw at 20psi, daily - Hiace 2.7 van '05
previous: 92' mr2 g-limited, fuls gen 2 turbo conversion, steel ct20b, external etc etc :)
drift car: 94' silvia s14 sr20det 307kw @18psi
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Postby escortman » Sat Jun 15, 2013 5:06 pm

and the seal didnt even look in bad condition either but no issues in 10000kms since replacing it
toyota supra 1996 2jzgte t64 turbonetics
Was 300hp on 10psi with stock twins, hopefully on similar boost be around 400hp

4x4 toyota blizzard offroader

widebody markII escort panelvan

RIP 13sec AE82 fxgt 4agte 5psi TD05 20g
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Postby DFECTED » Sun Jun 16, 2013 10:42 am

Might have to remove the tin part of the sump and jam the crank counterweight against a strong part of the block with a steel bar or similar
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Postby Jason T » Sun Jun 16, 2013 11:45 am

Jason T wrote:
solitaire wrote:was hoping to justify a new rattle gun but if thats not the way to do it ill get the sst - it will take me 4 hours to get the raw materials and cut and weld a diy version anyway so i may as well buy it.

Cheers for the advice as always mate :D


Jason T wrote:
1e-pwr wrote:Hey dudes
Anybody have one of these tools I could use/rent? Spent this morning ripping down the front end of the engine bay for cambelt change only to be thwarted by the crank pulley bolt, even with high torque rattle gun. Google tells me one of the crank pulley bracing tools should do the trick, anyone got one they can loan for cash/beer?

eg: http://www.shoptoolsshoptools.com/shopexd.asp?id=24301

Matt


You welcome to borrow this

2JZ-GTE VVTi 320 nm is a bitch

Pick up from Otahuhu Saturday 9 to 1 pm for info

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Postby JZCrazy » Sun Jun 16, 2013 3:53 pm

Did the same as above, used deep channel multi strut.
Worked a charm. (go the SST)
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Postby 92mr2paddy » Sun Jun 23, 2013 11:23 am

anyone got 3/4 drive 22mm 6sided socket?? with a 3/4 drive powerbar, havent been able to find anything, was hard enough to try and find a 6sided 22mm and then today i snapped the 1/2 powerbar.
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current: 96' Supra RZS single Gt42 490kw at 20psi, daily - Hiace 2.7 van '05
previous: 92' mr2 g-limited, fuls gen 2 turbo conversion, steel ct20b, external etc etc :)
drift car: 94' silvia s14 sr20det 307kw @18psi
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Postby sergei » Mon Jun 24, 2013 11:00 am

In my experience if tool is shiny (polished chromed), then I stay away.
I turned a powerbuilt "power" bar in banana once. Never again I would buy powerbuilt or repco branded (unless in emergency).
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Postby 92mr2paddy » Mon Jun 24, 2013 8:20 pm

haha yes powerbuilt is rubbish i only have half of the sockets/ratchets left in my set, rest are all snapped, haha

went to SULCO today and got a 3/4 22mm 6sided impact socket, 3/4 powerbar, went home, smashed the 2m pipe onto it and a GIANT chhreeeeeeaaakkk, bolt undone!!!! 8) 8)

2 weeks and countless tried finaly got it to undo. now wait for new tensioners etc and a new bolt from mark to start fixing, hopefully a new seal does the job.
current: 96' Supra RZS single Gt42 490kw at 20psi, daily - Hiace 2.7 van '05
previous: 92' mr2 g-limited, fuls gen 2 turbo conversion, steel ct20b, external etc etc :)
drift car: 94' silvia s14 sr20det 307kw @18psi
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Postby Mr Ree » Mon Jun 24, 2013 10:11 pm

Good to hear its off finally :)

Are you going to replace your harmonic balancer at the same time?
wak thud gush!
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Postby gmacrae » Mon Jun 24, 2013 10:58 pm

my bet is your PCV system isn't up to scratch, just a plain ol catch can often ISNT the ticket
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Postby 92mr2paddy » Tue Jun 25, 2013 12:07 am

ive got an ATI pulley ree thats brand new, will replace tensioners for timing belt etc tho.
escortman said his one went after sitting for 2 1/2 years which is the same as mine so im hoping its just that, will probably put a vacuum feed from catch tank back into intake aswell to make sure its not that.
current: 96' Supra RZS single Gt42 490kw at 20psi, daily - Hiace 2.7 van '05
previous: 92' mr2 g-limited, fuls gen 2 turbo conversion, steel ct20b, external etc etc :)
drift car: 94' silvia s14 sr20det 307kw @18psi
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Postby Bling » Tue Jun 25, 2013 12:25 am

92mr2paddy wrote:haha yes powerbuilt is rubbish i only have half of the sockets/ratchets left in my set, rest are all snapped, haha


Only if you abuse it and use the wrong tool for the job though. At least you got it off in the end :lol: granted, but using more suitable tools. 1/2" is pretty weaksauce in any brand if shits THAT tight, IMO.
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Postby 92mr2paddy » Sat Jun 29, 2013 1:05 pm

everything seems to go against me!
after getting the bolt off, taking the pulley off is usually the easy part, not this time!!! the ATI pulley has 3 holes for the pulley puller to mount on so you get a real solid mount, start trying to pull it off and the main 'puller' bolt goes sooo tight i've backed off, and then tightened again and backd off etc etc, so tight its trying to strip the thread on the puller.

i checked the ati website and they said they have very tight tolerances, i did throw some left over antiseize ARP stuff onto the crank when i installed it but it must still be seized on the b*tch.

can i heat up the hub part of the pulley to allow it to 'grow' so the tolerances wont be so tight and maybe any type of anti seize stuff i can spray in there??
current: 96' Supra RZS single Gt42 490kw at 20psi, daily - Hiace 2.7 van '05
previous: 92' mr2 g-limited, fuls gen 2 turbo conversion, steel ct20b, external etc etc :)
drift car: 94' silvia s14 sr20det 307kw @18psi
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Postby Crucible » Sat Jun 29, 2013 6:16 pm

You need a good quality puller. Heat will help but you can damage the damper ring. It just comes down to tool quality really.
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