What oil to use on a fresh rebuilt motor

The place for all technical car discussions. If you haven't already, read our Disclaimer first!

Moderator: The Mod Squad

Postby sergei » Sun Jul 28, 2013 5:38 pm

This whole "breaking in" business is not very relevant these days.
The only thing is relevant is to get the load on the piston rings in first few hundred kms. Rest is nonsense. If your bearings are wearing in, then you have built it wrong, and they would not last long.


The running in process is a left over from two centuries ago when engines where chiselled out of lump of cast iron.

There are plenty of examples floating on the internet, here is a good (although painful to read) site:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Specifically this:
Image
The piston on the right is full load vs gentle on the left.


As for synthetic, it depends what you call synthetic. Most of mineral oils are very close to synthetic these days grade for grade. 5W30 will definitely be synthetic blend. 10W30/40 will have some synthetic additives. 15W40 will probably be of a mineral kind. A lot of cars come with synthetic oil from factory. These engine last about 300000-500000kms, so it is good enough. Some engines you are not supposed to put anything thicker than 5W30 anyway, and you cannot get that grade in non-synthetic variant.

modern mineral oil (eg 10W40 variety) will not break down during the breaking in period (eg <500km), so it will behave just like 10W40 synthetic equivalent.
User avatar
sergei
Mad Russian
 
Posts: 8406
Joined: Wed May 15, 2002 12:06 pm
Location: North Shore

Postby Mr Revhead » Sun Jul 28, 2013 5:51 pm

Yeah moderate load (combustion pressure) to get the rings pushed out and bedded in. As Sergei says bearings don't need bedding in. At no point in their life is wearing on bearings a good thing :lol:
Will not take long to run it in either.
Being the subject of E-whinges since 2004 8)

http://www.centralmotorsport.org.nz/home

Image
User avatar
Mr Revhead
SECURITY!
 
Posts: 24635
Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2004 4:06 pm
Location: Nelson

Postby Scottie » Sun Jul 28, 2013 6:27 pm

What are peoples thoughts on engine braking? Sounds like a no-no.
User avatar
Scottie
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 379
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2002 6:13 pm
Location: Auckland

Postby Dell'Orto » Sun Jul 28, 2013 6:28 pm

No, I'd consider it pretty well critical
Edit: As long as you don't bang it off the rev limiter doing so :lol:
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!

Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
User avatar
Dell'Orto
** Moderator **
 
Posts: 17494
Joined: Tue Jul 08, 2003 5:07 am
Location: Straight out the ghetto, Lower Hutt

Postby CAMB01 » Mon Jul 29, 2013 10:46 pm

I'm with sergei on this, load the engine up as soon as possible to get the rings bedding into the bores. There the only things that require bedding in, and usually are fully bedded in within the first 125 - 150km.
1993 Mitsubishi EVO 1 Racecar
1998 Mitsubishi Mirage ZR Asti Mivec (Daily Whip)
1989 AE91 FX-ZS (Previous)
1994 AE101 Levin 20v (previous)
1992 EE90 Corolla Sedan (previous)
1986 AE82 FX-GT Corolla (previous)
1989 AE92 FX-GTZ Supercharged (previous)
1992 EE90 Corolla Hatchback (previous)

Custom Works Automotive
http://www.HCCC.org.nz
User avatar
CAMB01
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 1440
Joined: Fri Jan 17, 2003 11:33 pm
Location: Wellyz

Postby MilfHunter » Tue Jul 30, 2013 1:03 pm

gt4dude wrote:this doesn't really make sense to me but my mechanic told me of a guy that had a rebuilt motor and he kept checking his compression and it kept rising so he dumped the breakin oil after 1000km and put in more breakin oil and kept checking the compression until it stopped rising, then he completely flushed it and went to synthetic

does this make sense to anyone? i don't understand it myself


What you're describing is the rings and seats bedding in slowly.

In high compression motors the rise in pressure over the 1st week or so can be quite marked.
One bike motor I did (CB1100RC) was fine for the 1st few weeks and then would burn starters till I added another gasket to lift the barrels. Of course in a car motor you don't have that luxury.

What I find interesting it that some racers swear that running a motor in hard will produce a more powerful motor (if it doesn't break 1st).
I don't have facts or figures to argue this, just that I've heard it countless times before.
I suppose race motors are rebuilt more often than regular motors - so it may be true for a limited time only?
User avatar
MilfHunter
Toyspeed Member
 
Posts: 150
Joined: Sat Nov 07, 2009 6:50 am
Location: Auckland

Previous

Return to Tech Questions

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot], Google [Bot] and 7 guests