Is there a workshop manual for AE100?

[Adoom]

I need to change the clutch in my AE100. It just barely disengages now.
I've changed the clutch in a RWD car lots of times, but never a FWD.
Is there an online manual? Or PDF?
Does anyone have a paper copy and can scan/photo the relevant section?

Or do I just make it up as I go along?

[Dell'Orto]

Its easy as hell. Only thing you'd probably want is flywheel and pressure plate bolt torque spec. Otherwise just make it up as you go

[Lloyd]

It's pretty much the same, just the driveshafts are more annoying.

No particular order...

Drain gearbox (if you're changing the oil, some will come out with axles anyway), remove wheels, CV nuts/ball joint bolts, pull halfshafts out (inners can be a bit of a bitch to get out but just pull harder/lever), battery/tray/airbox out, starter out, wiring/hoses out of the way, crossmember/engine mounts off, top gearbox mount off and lower the engine a bit to give some room, all the bellhousing bolts and it should fall off.

Biggest pain is usual gearbox-chassis clearance. I've done a couple on the side of the road before. Not ideal, but fairly straight forward. Once the airbox/battery/tray are out of the way it's nice and obvious with plenty of room.

[Adoom]

...words....

Cheers!

[sergei]

The easiest way to remove rear engine mount (under firewall), is to push out the studs out of it and slide it out. Otherwise you will need to unbolt rear cross member (which holds suspension arms and other things).

[Adoom]

The easiest way to remove rear engine mount (under firewall), is to push out the studs out of it and slide it out. Otherwise you will need to unbolt rear cross member (which holds suspension arms and other things).

The easiest way to remove rear engine mount (under firewall), is to push out the studs out of it and slide it out.

is to push out the studs out of it and slide it out.

I'm not understanding....

push out the studs out of it

I could not push the mount up high enough to get the studs out of the holes. I had the lever the $&#$% out of the engine to get enough clearance.

Do you mean press the studs out of the mount?

The mount is broken, so probably the cause of my shudder when I pull away.

But the clutch is all out and the flywheel off. The flywheel is definitely glazed and not much is left of the friction material.

[sergei]

The studs are pressed in. if you unbolt them, then bolt on the nut at the end of the stud (so the nut and end of the stud is flush) and hit the nut/stud with light to medium force with hammer, the stud will come out.

To put the studs back in simply slide them in their original holes and then tighten the nuts, which will "press" in the studs.

[Adoom]

I had to press the studs out with the vice and a bit of thick walled pipe. Then had fun trying to lever stuff around to get enough clearance to get the studs back in the holes.
The car had flexed a bit so the holes for the front of the cross member were out by 5mm. I had to change the jacking point to right at the front of the car so it flexed back.

Soooo, where to refill the gearbox with oil....???? I see a likely looking socket/plug looking thing on the top that needs an allen key to remove.
Is that it?

[Dell'Orto]

I think I refilled mine through the shifter hole, but suction gun and fill hole on the front is the easiest/best way to do it

[Kiwi-Corolla]

There should be a fill hole with a large 24mm bolt on the front of the box. You undo that and fill it until it spills.

Here's a pic from the interwebs: http://www.flickr.com/photos/68202806@N07/6282226625/

[Adoom]

Thanks, I eventually found a youtube that showed the filler hole. I'm thinking about using the air paraffin gun, take the nozzle off and put some hose on it. I've tried with suction pumps and pouring down long hoses, but the oil is so thick, it takes forever.

The clutch feels a lot better now. I haven't driven it, just feel where it starts to grab while sitting in the drive.

[85AW20v]

You can also do through the reverse light switch - the grey plug on the left of the shifter housing or the shift mechanism locator on the top in the center.