1uzfe mild power build

[Vezza]

so ive come into possession of a non vvti 1uzfe for my boat on wheels (jzs141 crown) im going to do a full rebuild on the motor just havnt decided which route to go i was thinking lumpy n/a or supercharged wanting to make 400-500hp at the wheels so here are my questions

what will i need to fit it to this chassis currently 1jz ?
what are the stock internals rated to?
n/a vs supercharger pros and cons?
anyhints or tips on working these motors up? (everyone has their own)
running auto due to emergency foot brake and cant be bothered removing so is there someone in nz that rekits them

thank you for your help in advance

[steroidcontaskie]

2 questions come to mind.

What is your budget and how gypsy do you want it?

The internal strength of the 1UZ differs from year to year. There are a few changes to the rods, off the top of my head a pre 1994 is the best strength wise.

Auto really depends, you can do a shift kit with washers (like $5), buy a valve body mod kit ($100), get a full professional valve body mod ( about a grand) , then you can redo the clutches and bands (maybe 500 if you source and do the rebuild yourself, 3K if you get someone else to do it). 400-500 rwhp is very much full rebuild territory.

Power wise, not really sure but people seem to put on a m90 or m112 supercharger. For 500hp i would be guessing an m112 at like 10 psi. But you will need injectors, fuel pump, electrics etc.

It is going to cost quite a bit.

Cheers
Edward

[Vezza]

Yeah money is least of my worries I've never started a project and cut corners. my motors out of a 91 soarer so sounds like I got the rite motor I've got a pretty good mechanical engineer who gives me a healthy discount for big builds thanks for your help much appreciated

[Flannelman]

I will try and cover this as best to my knowledge.

Stage One N/A
Headers, exhaust and intake. Headers will have to be custom build, some options available with ITB or Carby. Again, a custom intake would deliver more. Need plenum volume no smaller than 6 litres with radius intake trumpets. Don't skimp on the length.

Stage Two N/A
As above, plus cam upgrade. 270-275 duration (strong mid range pick up with some top end). Depending on how this is done, valve to cam clearance needs to be kept in spec by machine work or new shims. Valve spring upgrade possible. ECU upgrade to a programmable unit. Potential injector upgrade might be needed.

Stage Three N/A
All out, Cam 290+ duration, valve spring upgrade mandatory, Comp increase by thinner head gasket, (aiming for 11.5-12. Premium fuel a must) head skimmed, bigger valves, port/valve seat work to match, chamber work, piston/rod upgrade, crank rework, rotating assembly balanced, ARP hardware. (plus the extras, oil pump, rings, bearings, gasket set, machining of the block)

Stage One S/C
As N/A, intake is governed by the supercharger. Don't go high in boost on stock comp ratios. (no more than 8psi)

Stage Two S/C
skip this and go straight to Stage Three N/A.... Big difference is COMP ratio DROP to 9:1. Boost increase comes from running a bigger supercharger. Smaller pulley can work as well but this limits RPM.
If high compression is wanted, MUST run E85. It gives greater gains under 4000rpm with the top end to match.

At stage one, I can see costs exceeding 5K if its not you doing the work.
Stage two would be about the same
Stage Three I wouldn't be surprised if the final bill was close to 10K. Some cash can be saved by skipping the engine work of stage two and going straight to stage three.

For supercharger stages, add the cost of the supercharger and related hardware. Again, doing it properly (and new or custom parts) don't expect change from 5K.

Hp? The Superstock 4L carby fed V8s run at around 440Hp at the crank. These are compression limited to 10:1 so I would expect 480+hp from stage three NA. (120hp per litre)

Stage Three S/C should clear 500hp by a healthy margin.