Bazda wrote:remember he will most likely have to pay someone to do all this work. If you pull down the engine you may as well do the bearings, get it re honed, get the rods honed out to suit arp bolts, buy all arp bolts etc new seals etc etc, your gona spend a few thousand easily for someone to do all this work. I would say more than $3k. And what do you get, still a pretty much stock ze bottom end .
+1 for Bazda's engine!
Ive just had a full build and balance on a silvertop with an aim of 250kws, and thats cost me crap loads!! Barrys is all good to go
Baaaaarrrryyyy....do you do HP's??? Ill put your name on my car
if you aim at the lower end of your range (150kw) and are able to do some stuff yourself, it should be highly affordable. stock gze bottom end is highly capable, if you look at zaks project thread, ( viewtopic.php?t=54834 ) though hes sold the car now it was making 145kw on an internally standard silvertop! and was given death at drift events on this setup too.
200kw is a LOT of power, particularly in a light, FWD, presumably mostly street driven car. it really depends what you want out of it, but personally i would highly recommend driving or at least getting a ride in some powerful FWD cars before you start spending money.
rollaholic wrote:if you aim at the lower end of your range (150kw) and are able to do some stuff yourself, it should be highly affordable. stock gze bottom end is highly capable, if you look at zaks project thread, ( viewtopic.php?t=54834 ) though hes sold the car now it was making 145kw on an internally standard silvertop! and was given death at drift events on this setup too.
200kw is a LOT of power, particularly in a light, FWD, presumably mostly street driven car. it really depends what you want out of it, but personally i would highly recommend driving or at least getting a ride in some powerful FWD cars before you start spending money.
Quoted for truth.
One of my mates owns that crazy orange turbo integra DSCRET. Its got 250 kw atw. But when you put your foot down there aint no grip to be found till early in 4th (and thats with a lot of time and effort gone into tuning/dyno time)
But if you still really want 200 out of a blacktop get ready to spend mucho $$ on tuning. Its all good to have the power, but if its not usable you wont be having as much fun as you should Plus turbo + bad tune will eat your blacktop in no time.
1988 r31 TI Skyline.
1982 ra60 Celica (my Aussie Toyota and axle stand warrior).
ex: 1991 Corolla, 1989 fxgt-v, 1985 aw11. 1992 sw20 gt-s. 2002 glxi Lancer wagon (work hack)
next car - another a-dub please!
One of my mates owns that crazy orange turbo integra DSCRET. Its got 250 kw atw. But when you put your foot down there aint no grip to be found till early in 4th (and thats with a lot of time and effort gone into tuning/dyno time)
When did he rebuild it? Was definately a giggle to go for a fang in thats for sure.
But yes, 200+kw is quite silly in a FWD road car, and realistically you can only use that sort of power in small doses, otherwise you find yourself at licence losing speeds very very quickly.
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting 1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons 2018 Ranger - Because workcar 1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time OMG so shiny!
FXGTV wrote:One of my mates owns that crazy orange turbo integra DSCRET. Its got 250 kw atw. But when you put your foot down there aint no grip to be found till early in 4th (and thats with a lot of time and effort gone into tuning/dyno time)
It was a lot of fun that car, though its no longer DSCRET (that plate is on the guy who built the Integra's new H22A Civic which is a bit of an animal itself) and last I saw it had a fraction over 200kw @ wheels, though was an unopened B18C. Has the new owner forged the motor/turned up the boost or something?
FXGTV wrote:One of my mates owns that crazy orange turbo integra DSCRET. Its got 250 kw atw. But when you put your foot down there aint no grip to be found till early in 4th (and thats with a lot of time and effort gone into tuning/dyno time)
It was a lot of fun that car, though its no longer DSCRET (that plate is on the guy who built the Integra's new H22A Civic which is a bit of an animal itself) and last I saw it had a fraction over 200kw @ wheels, though was an unopened B18C. Has the new owner forged the motor/turned up the boost or something?
New owner is in the process of forging it. Its had some more work done, like a rev controllerwhich has seen it go faster.
1988 r31 TI Skyline.
1982 ra60 Celica (my Aussie Toyota and axle stand warrior).
ex: 1991 Corolla, 1989 fxgt-v, 1985 aw11. 1992 sw20 gt-s. 2002 glxi Lancer wagon (work hack)
next car - another a-dub please!
One of my mates owns that crazy orange turbo integra DSCRET. Its got 250 kw atw. But when you put your foot down there aint no grip to be found till early in 4th (and thats with a lot of time and effort gone into tuning/dyno time)
When did he rebuild it? Was definately a giggle to go for a fang in thats for sure. But yes, 200+kw is quite silly in a FWD road car, and realistically you can only use that sort of power in small doses, otherwise you find yourself at licence losing speeds very very quickly.
A new engine was put in buy the guy who built it. He sold it for 15,000 with a slipping clutch! Thats alot of car for the money. Its funny passing WRXs, with the front wheers spinning
1988 r31 TI Skyline.
1982 ra60 Celica (my Aussie Toyota and axle stand warrior).
ex: 1991 Corolla, 1989 fxgt-v, 1985 aw11. 1992 sw20 gt-s. 2002 glxi Lancer wagon (work hack)
next car - another a-dub please!
FXGTV wrote:A new engine was put in buy the guy who built it. He sold it for 15,000 with a slipping clutch! Thats alot of car for the money. Its funny passing WRXs, with the front wheers spinning
Yeah it was just a standard B18C though...I do know the previous owner
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting 1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons 2018 Ranger - Because workcar 1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time OMG so shiny!
yeah would have to be a fair bit more than 200kw to break traction in 3rd, I could get my trueno to let go when cornering if i kicked the clutch in dry but theres no way itll spin through 3rd from 2nd or spin in 3rd when coming on boost.
in the wet is a differant story though
Last edited by Crucible on Sat Nov 22, 2008 8:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
Emperor wrote:I duno.. Mates Accord (TOPIMP) doesn't have traction until about 4th, 5th in the wet haha.. Not sure of exact KW though, but pretty insane
really?
thats a fair bit of torque to spin through 4th even in the wet!! must be mad as!
Emperor wrote:I duno.. Mates Accord (TOPIMP) doesn't have traction until about 4th, 5th in the wet haha.. Not sure of exact KW though, but pretty insane
really?
thats a fair bit of torque to spin through 4th even in the wet!! must be mad as!
Or have a really bad wheel alignment
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting 1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons 2018 Ranger - Because workcar 1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time OMG so shiny!
after reading it all i think ill aim for 150 ish, it seems more achievable, cheaper, safer and more useable
i am a mecanical engineer so i can do quite a bit myself: turning, milling, welding, fitting, electrical, however i am not a mechanic so i have never realy rebuilt an engine so would have to pay someone to do all the engine bits, but can do the rest.
ok so parts to support 150 (internal)
block: i was uner the impression that the blacktop block is shared through alot of 4ages?
rods: will sivertop or gze be suitable?
pistons: silvertop gze or aftermaket?
crank: i was uner the impression that the blacktop crank is shared through alot of 4ages?
For ease and price, go for some stock 4AGZE pistons, 8.9:1 jobbies. No real point going to aftermarket, stock ones can handle over 20psi (proven).
Get some silvertop rods, they'll be plenty good enough for what you want.
Rebuild motor with them and away you go.
Or you could try your luck by buying a rebuilt 4AGZE off Trademe and chuck your Blacktop head on that. It could end up being cheaper, but has more risk involved (you never know what you're buying on trademe.)
Yes crank is the same, block too. There's no such thing as silvertop 4AGZE pistons as well dude. Silvertop is a 20V and had no supercharged varient.
Go for a TDO5H from an EVO3 or similar I'd say, or get a T3/T4 jobbie, up to you.
A Link or EMS Stinger seem to be popular, so go with one of those for ECU.
Get a good tuner and you'll be away laughing (boosting).
after reading it all i think ill aim for 150 ish, it seems more achievable, cheaper, safer and more useable
you could always just sell you're 111 and buy a gtz turbo off trademe, they pop up now and then. they seem to go reasonably cheap now as most have clocked up ks, plus its a buyers market at the moment.
I just recently sold my GTZ levin for 4.5k, had TD05h, custom plenum and twin entry Manifold. I know of another one that just sold for the same price and it had a link and was tuned to 217kw!
itll be alot less hassle and cheaper to go that route imo, and you dont need a 20v head to crack 200kw, youll get that with a stock standard 4agze.
.
(and thats with a lot of time and effort gone into tuning/dyno time)
