200kw out of a black top
Moderator: The Mod Squad
200kw out of a black top
hi i have a black top 4age
in a ae111 levin
and im looking to get 150-200 kw
can anyone give me maybe a list of mods/parts that i will need to achieve this
it currently has a 2.25-2.5 stainless mandrel exhaust from the firewall back
a 3 inch intake with large front mount
im installing an electric power steering pump from an mr2
i have made my own super charger/centrifical blower (paxton stlye)
which i am going to use however if this does not work (it blows up or does not boost enough) im thinking about going to a t3/t4
any advice would be great
in a ae111 levin
and im looking to get 150-200 kw
can anyone give me maybe a list of mods/parts that i will need to achieve this
it currently has a 2.25-2.5 stainless mandrel exhaust from the firewall back
a 3 inch intake with large front mount
im installing an electric power steering pump from an mr2
i have made my own super charger/centrifical blower (paxton stlye)
which i am going to use however if this does not work (it blows up or does not boost enough) im thinking about going to a t3/t4
any advice would be great
- Dell'Orto
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You need decent conrods, and lower compression for a start. 11:1 plus boost and blacktop rods = very messy.
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1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
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1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!
Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
yea i geussed that and am aware that the rods arnt the strongest
but thats more of a long term thing
there was i guy selling 1 on trademe that was running 6 psi with standed internals and standed fueling but had and aftermarket cpu which he had a shop tune for him and said it was running well
i figured i could go that far for a start
i kno that my old car 3sfe which i turboed could run 4 psi b4 a boost cut
thats actually a funny story but quite long
yes the frount mount is for the charger it can very eaisly b plumbed into a turbo tho
im not that keen on expencive after market parts so how does 4agze pistons and rods sound? or would they hit the valves as they are not cut 4 5 valve heads?
but thats more of a long term thing
there was i guy selling 1 on trademe that was running 6 psi with standed internals and standed fueling but had and aftermarket cpu which he had a shop tune for him and said it was running well
i figured i could go that far for a start
i kno that my old car 3sfe which i turboed could run 4 psi b4 a boost cut
thats actually a funny story but quite long
yes the frount mount is for the charger it can very eaisly b plumbed into a turbo tho
im not that keen on expencive after market parts so how does 4agze pistons and rods sound? or would they hit the valves as they are not cut 4 5 valve heads?
- l1ttle_d3vil
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ok so as a long term goal i will definatly get rods and pistons if i aim for 200kw
as a short term goal il aim for 150kw which is 204ish hp as they claim 165hp new which is 120ish kw i dont think an extra 30 is to much to ask for however that just my opinion
with sum basic fueling mods and a after market computer how much boost would be safe on standed internals? for any lenghty duration of time given that its used for city driving with the occasional redline 2-3 times every time i drive it
as a short term goal il aim for 150kw which is 204ish hp as they claim 165hp new which is 120ish kw i dont think an extra 30 is to much to ask for however that just my opinion
with sum basic fueling mods and a after market computer how much boost would be safe on standed internals? for any lenghty duration of time given that its used for city driving with the occasional redline 2-3 times every time i drive it
- Dell'Orto
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It'd be that easy if they genuinely made 165, but not many standard blacktops will make 100kw at the wheels.
With 11:1 compression, it wont take much boost before it starts pinging.
With 11:1 compression, it wont take much boost before it starts pinging.
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
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1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
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1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!
Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
You need to decide what you want for a start. for example
125 ish kw pistons, rings, gaskets, hone, computer, dyno. about 3-3.5k
150 isk kw as above but throw in gze rods, injectors, balancing 4-4.5k
200 kw as above but forged rods, head work, lots more maching and a lot more dollars.
My suggestion if you want 200kw then buy bazda's 7a bottom end throw a decent turbo and your 20v head on it.
125 ish kw pistons, rings, gaskets, hone, computer, dyno. about 3-3.5k
150 isk kw as above but throw in gze rods, injectors, balancing 4-4.5k
200 kw as above but forged rods, head work, lots more maching and a lot more dollars.
My suggestion if you want 200kw then buy bazda's 7a bottom end throw a decent turbo and your 20v head on it.
2005 vz ss commodore
Yes buy my bottom end. So much torque!
1988 Toyota Levin GTZ 410kw atw @26psi
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- rollaholic
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theres several cars on here making around the 200kw mark on 1600 bottom ends with relatively basic setups.
have a look through projects section, should be enlightening!
for what its worth there have been plenty of horror stories about blacktop rods failing, even on standard engines. if you are going to open the engine i wouldnt hesitate to replace them with earlier model rods, for the price its cheap peace of mind.
have a look through projects section, should be enlightening!
for what its worth there have been plenty of horror stories about blacktop rods failing, even on standard engines. if you are going to open the engine i wouldnt hesitate to replace them with earlier model rods, for the price its cheap peace of mind.
BASU!
gasman's engine has factory 4agze rods and the higher compression pistons, with a standard unmodified blacktop 20v head. His was making 260kw at the wheels.
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1989 AE91 FX-ZS (Previous)
1994 AE101 Levin 20v (previous)
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yes the 1600 would be fine.
BUT
woulndt it be nice to just buy something setup with reliability and can make massive power with massive torque all ready to bolt in
BUT
woulndt it be nice to just buy something setup with reliability and can make massive power with massive torque all ready to bolt in
1988 Toyota Levin GTZ 410kw atw @26psi
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- deaf_rattle
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Bazda wrote:yes the 1600 would be fine.
BUT
woulndt it be nice to just buy something setup with reliability and can make massive power with massive torque all ready to bolt in
wise words from Barry here.
You could easily spend far more achieving much less.
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tim_blair wrote:with sum basic fueling mods and a after market computer how much boost would be safe on standed internals? for any lenghty duration of time given that its used for city driving with the occasional redline 2-3 times every time i drive it
F**k all would be a close figure to how much boost you could run. I'd place a bet at the TAB that it would blow up too if you like to thrash it with blacktop rods + boost
Do it once do it right or just don't do it.
for the price of larger rods and ze pistons ud be stupid not to do the bottom end now instead of having to get new block and head as well as rods and pistons in a couple months
there was a guy running stock bottom end on 5psi with link etc a lot of work just to run 5
there was a guy running stock bottom end on 5psi with link etc a lot of work just to run 5
toyota supra 1996 2jzgte t64 turbonetics
Was 300hp on 10psi with stock twins, hopefully on similar boost be around 400hp
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Was 300hp on 10psi with stock twins, hopefully on similar boost be around 400hp
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widebody markII escort panelvan
RIP 13sec AE82 fxgt 4agte 5psi TD05 20g
- Dell'Orto
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And that was a silvertop as well, which has much stronger internal than a blacktop.
1988 KE70 Wagon - Slowly rusting
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!
1990 NA6 MX-5 - because reasons
2018 Ranger - Because workcar
1997 FD3S RX-7 Type R - all brap, all the time
OMG so shiny!
Quint wrote:Not just cock, large cock.
remember he will most likely have to pay someone to do all this work.
If you pull down the engine you may as well do the bearings, get it re honed, get the rods honed out to suit arp bolts, buy all arp bolts etc new seals etc etc, your gona spend a few thousand easily for someone to do all this work. I would say more than $3k. And what do you get, still a pretty much stock ze bottom end
.
If you pull down the engine you may as well do the bearings, get it re honed, get the rods honed out to suit arp bolts, buy all arp bolts etc new seals etc etc, your gona spend a few thousand easily for someone to do all this work. I would say more than $3k. And what do you get, still a pretty much stock ze bottom end
1988 Toyota Levin GTZ 410kw atw @26psi
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I think you guys are over thinking this a bit, 200kw is entirely doable on a decent gze bottom end with a suitable turbo and importantly fueling sorted with a good ecu/tune.
qikstarlie aka kpr was running ~215kw atw in an interally standard 5efhe with 4efte pistons. A 4agze has significantly chunkier rods and better pistons by all accounts, plus more displacement to boot. Decent intake and exhaust + good tune = success
qikstarlie aka kpr was running ~215kw atw in an interally standard 5efhe with 4efte pistons. A 4agze has significantly chunkier rods and better pistons by all accounts, plus more displacement to boot. Decent intake and exhaust + good tune = success
